$3500 Reality Check
I'm not trying to be rude or mean, but had you spent some time researching or reading up in the N/A forum, you would have realized all this. some people have spent a lot of money on NA mods just to BARELY break 300 WHP.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 55
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From: New York
It's a fact... It has always been said that if you're looking for bang for your buck mods then it's FI or FAIL...
N/A mods aren't worth it if you're looking for whp or tq..
N/A mods:
1. Sound/Tone (intakes, HFC's, Test Pipes, Exhausts)
2. Weight Saving (Nothing Major, especially for our pigs)
3. WHP & TQ (Nothing Major)
PLEASE STICKY SOMETHING LIKE THIS! These threads appear every month...
If you're looking for power either buy another car or go FI.
THE END.. haha
N/A mods aren't worth it if you're looking for whp or tq..
N/A mods:
1. Sound/Tone (intakes, HFC's, Test Pipes, Exhausts)
2. Weight Saving (Nothing Major, especially for our pigs)
3. WHP & TQ (Nothing Major)
PLEASE STICKY SOMETHING LIKE THIS! These threads appear every month...
If you're looking for power either buy another car or go FI.
THE END.. haha
Last edited by OMG35S; Jan 26, 2011 at 04:49 PM.
Seriously, you fail. Since when is a $10,000 mod good bang for the buck?! rofl
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 301
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From: South Florida
Seriously, you fail. Since when is a $10,000 mod good bang for the buck?! rofl
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Kuwait
15whp is very optimistic, almost surreal.
Besides, you can feel a 50, 100 and 200whp increase, but can you really feel 10-15whp to justify the money spent? I spent less than $3500 in bolt ons and tune, and gained almost 30whp over stock, but knowing what I gained (and now limited to that much gain) and knowing what can be gained going FI, I must say I would've saved my $$ and went with a $5000 GTM SC and $3000 supporting mods.
Besides, you can feel a 50, 100 and 200whp increase, but can you really feel 10-15whp to justify the money spent? I spent less than $3500 in bolt ons and tune, and gained almost 30whp over stock, but knowing what I gained (and now limited to that much gain) and knowing what can be gained going FI, I must say I would've saved my $$ and went with a $5000 GTM SC and $3000 supporting mods.
Seriously, you fail. Since when is a $10,000 mod good bang for the buck?! rofl
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
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Seriously, you fail. Since when is a $10,000 mod good bang for the buck?! rofl
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
Intakes: 15 whp for $400 = ~$25 per whp.
Twins: 300 whp for $10,000 = $33 per whp.
Of course the law of diminishing returns sort of comes into play here.. but you get the idea. ;-) In other words, some N/A bolt-ons are definitely worth it!
Our cars are fast in my eyes, and some well selected N/A mods definitely wakes them up even more! :cheers:
And I'll have my independent dyno numbers on March 19. That being said, I don't expect much out of a dyno. Long tube intakes aren't dyno queens. They really shine in the real world where your hood is closed and your car is moving. So if I even get 5-10 rwhp gain from the intakes ON A DYNO I'll be happy knowing that they give me even more than that OFF the dyno.
Last edited by AadosX; Feb 14, 2011 at 11:04 AM.
15whp is very optimistic, almost surreal.
Besides, you can feel a 50, 100 and 200whp increase, but can you really feel 10-15whp to justify the money spent? I spent less than $3500 in bolt ons and tune, and gained almost 30whp over stock, but knowing what I gained (and now limited to that much gain) and knowing what can be gained going FI, I must say I would've saved my $$ and went with a $5000 GTM SC and $3000 supporting mods.
Besides, you can feel a 50, 100 and 200whp increase, but can you really feel 10-15whp to justify the money spent? I spent less than $3500 in bolt ons and tune, and gained almost 30whp over stock, but knowing what I gained (and now limited to that much gain) and knowing what can be gained going FI, I must say I would've saved my $$ and went with a $5000 GTM SC and $3000 supporting mods.
otherwise, sell the Z, buy a radical or a caterham and be faster anyway.
power is absolutely nothing without a skilled driver....
That's seems quite a bit low even for an HOUR. I spent about $3g including tune and gained 30whp and 25wtq. Its not much for the price I paid but witht he extra performance coupled with the sound, I wouldn't have done anything differently.
Hey guys, so I've talked to several local performance shops and have gathered a general consensus regarding this discussion. From what I've heard/read/been told - marketing for aftermarket N/A parts has really had to step it up in order to stay appealing to newer, factory-optimized vehicles. Technology has become advanced enough that car manufacturers can roll out N/A cars that are reasonably maxed out from that factory. Improved ECUs, emissions tuning, and air/fuel maps, for example, have eliminated a lot of the previous bottlenecks that made aftermarket N/A parts so worthwhile. Therefore, the gains you would get now by installing basic bolt-ons is going to be a lot smaller than in the past. The idea here is that you can only improve so much on an already improved platform. As new vehicles are released, the gap between factory performance and aftermarket performance shrinks. Aftermarket companies try to counteract this by boasting impressive gains which are rarely achieved. It is important to realize and understand this trend before you start spending your hard-earned money on N/A performance parts.
I think that's a fairly true explanation. However to judge true gains I MUST dyno stock and then after mods on the same dyno to see your true gains. I could take my car to 3 different dynos and get 3 different read outs. That being said though, 280 sounded a bit right for the parts u had. And seeing as the HOUR dynos stock between 250 and 260, those are decent numbers. But then again u can't be certain if u never ran on the dyno stock. FI is definitely the way to go in terms of the cost to power ratio. I'm just staying N/A right now for reliability since I drive my car daily and I don't track my car enough to warrant the extra power. The HOUR is fast enough for street driving IMO.
Here i am chiming in again.........
I bought the XYZ with HFC module and installed it. At that time, i had the MD ART Pipes and Nismo look-alike exhaust. I could feel a noticeable loss in low end power. After searching around the forum for XYZ pipe dyno, i saw that it lost power at the low end but regained it in high rpm. So to conclude, XYZ pipe is only goot if you stay in the higher RPM. For daily driving, just a MD ART pipe is suffice.
Btw, MD ART pipe was probably the only mod that was worth it. Even when i had it paired with stock catback, i could feel a noticeable gain... A lot actually...
I bought the XYZ with HFC module and installed it. At that time, i had the MD ART Pipes and Nismo look-alike exhaust. I could feel a noticeable loss in low end power. After searching around the forum for XYZ pipe dyno, i saw that it lost power at the low end but regained it in high rpm. So to conclude, XYZ pipe is only goot if you stay in the higher RPM. For daily driving, just a MD ART pipe is suffice.
Btw, MD ART pipe was probably the only mod that was worth it. Even when i had it paired with stock catback, i could feel a noticeable gain... A lot actually...