When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just had my car tune yesterday at fever racing and i am very happy with results. But before this run, had it dyno with just catback skunk2 true dual exhaust at 264whp. Since then i added resonated test pipes, injen intakes and osiris tune.
It base line at a surprising 291hp/238tq and after tune 310hp/268tq and what a difference, its a whole different monter.
Last edited by Qlitv; Mar 24, 2016 at 07:52 AM.
Reason: Grammar
" If you look at a dynojet graph in the upper right corner, you will see where it says the correction method being used. The options are SAE, STD, Uncorrected and a few not needed for discussion. You will also notice a smooth factor (up to 5) which dyno operators use to make the power curves and any other data displayed, such as AFR, seem more ACCURATE and SMOOTH. You will also see AFR graphs scaled DOWN to hide flaws in the curve".
Most shop will set it to Smoothing 5. I bet you that numbers will be a tad different when they change the setting. Also. I'm not a full tuner expert but your AFR is at 18.10ish and that's way too rich.
" If you look at a dynojet graph in the upper right corner, you will see where it says the correction method being used. The options are SAE, STD, Uncorrected and a few not needed for discussion. You will also notice a smooth factor (up to 5) which dyno operators use to make the power curves and any other data displayed, such as AFR, seem more ACCURATE and SMOOTH. You will also see AFR graphs scaled DOWN to hide flaws in the curve".
Most shop will set it to Smoothing 5. I bet you that numbers will be a tad different when they change the setting. Also. I'm not a full tuner expert but your AFR is at 18.10ish and that's way too rich.
Ok, so smoothing shows peaks and lows better depending on how they set it at?
Also air/fuel at baseline was 14.1.
During tuning he had it at a smooth 12.8/13
It was having some readings issues at the time, but he forgot to show the right afr grap at printout.
Ok, so smoothing shows peaks and lows better depending on how they set it at?
Also air/fuel at baseline was 14.1.
During tuning he had it at a smooth 12.8/13
It was having some readings issues at the time, but he forgot to show the right afr grap at printout.
Correct. It's makes the jagged line much smoother. Most shop run STD Smoothing 5.
" If you look at a dynojet graph in the upper right corner, you will see where it says the correction method being used. The options are SAE, STD, Uncorrected and a few not needed for discussion. You will also notice a smooth factor (up to 5) which dyno operators use to make the power curves and any other data displayed, such as AFR, seem more ACCURATE and SMOOTH. You will also see AFR graphs scaled DOWN to hide flaws in the curve".
Most shop will set it to Smoothing 5. I bet you that numbers will be a tad different when they change the setting. Also. I'm not a full tuner expert but your AFR is at 18.10ish and that's way too rich.
So i have a base model HR and the tuner say that if i get a steering wheel with the cruise control buttons he can make the launch control work with osiris but he wasn't sure.
Also that there should be a unused plug in my stock harness that plugs into the cruise control.
So i have a base model HR and the tuner say that if i get a steering wheel with the cruise control buttons he can make the launch control work with osiris but he wasn't sure.
Also that there should be a unused plug in my stock harness that plugs into the cruise control.
So i have a base model HR and the tuner say that if i get a steering wheel with the cruise control buttons he can make the launch control work with osiris but he wasn't sure.
Also that there should be a unused plug in my stock harness that plugs into the cruise control.
Huge thread on this in the DIY section. If you read through the entire thing, I believe someone with an 03 was successful.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Not really, If you already paid for an Uprev ECU flash/tune, then you can do this for pretty darn cheap (Less than $150.00 in OEM parts).
Q: How much labor is involved?
A: Not much at all. If you have a base model 6MT, just get the two supporting electronic sensors/switches for your brake and clutch pedal. Then get the OEM steering wheel controls. The wiring harness plugs are already there!
Q: Anything else to note?
A: The Base Model Gauge Cluster does not sport the LEDs for Cruise Control. With the right reflash, CC will still work with the bare minimum components mentioned above, but you won't have indicator LEDs showing this in the cluster.
Q: Can a Cruise Enabled Cluster be installed?
A: Absolutely! But the mileage for your vehicle is stored on the cluster. Thus requiring the odometer to be reprogrammed and adds more cost to this project just to have indicator LEDs. (Note: Misrepresenting mileage is illegal!)
Q: How difficult is it to replace the gauge cluster?
A: If you're a perfectionist like me, it's a PITA. The 06+ clusters have a rubberized paint coating on them that scratches effortlessly. Since the replacement cluster board I received was from a wrecker, the outer housing was completely trashed. So I had to transfer the new board into my existing housing. This was a daunting task to achieve without breaking/scratching anything and keeping dust/dirt out of the cluster. With that being said, replacement clusters can be found for around $100.00 which is super cheap compared to purchasing an OEM new one. Reprogramming fees start around $50.00 and can jump much higher depending on the shop you choose.
Q: Anything else I should know?
A: When installing the CC enabled cluster, you need to black out the SLIP and TCS cluster LEDs. Why? Because your base model Z doesn't have the supporting sensors for these features. Therefore the LEDs will be stuck on since the cluster doesn't understand wtf is going on. Not a big deal.
You can download installation instructions I put into a pdf, they detail/outline the entire process of getting CC to work without replacing the cluster:
Dyno tune!
