Low RPM jerking after VTC timing control solenoid cover insta
Hey guys,
Got a 2008 Nissan 350z roadster, Automatic, 145K on the clock.
Recently had codes P0014 & P0024 , replaced the VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid with covers on both sides.
HOWEVER, since replacing those VTC solenoid covers, the car has been 'jerking' at low RPM (approx 1500 RPM) when taking off or even lightly pressing on the gas when driving. This is after the car warms up, completely runs fine in the first 2-3 minutes of driving cold.
Came back to my mechanic, he advised that this may be a learning process for the car to get used to the new parts? not sure..
Been driving like this for about 2500kms since the repair, CEL has not come back (thank goodness), but the car still jerks :L
It will only jerk when I lightly press on the gas, but does not when I press it quickly. At that 'jerking' point (1500RPM) the motor kind of makes a weird sound, almost sounding like a diesel engine for the fraction of the second it jerks.
The car idles fine, BUT when I gas the car in neutral, the car will sort of 'jitters?' or RPM surge at 1500RPM and again at 1900RPM. After the 2000RPM mark the car runs perfectly. Not sure whats going on?
Does the exhaust valve timing need a re-learn? spark plug replacement? Any help/advise is much appreciated
Got a 2008 Nissan 350z roadster, Automatic, 145K on the clock.
Recently had codes P0014 & P0024 , replaced the VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid with covers on both sides.
HOWEVER, since replacing those VTC solenoid covers, the car has been 'jerking' at low RPM (approx 1500 RPM) when taking off or even lightly pressing on the gas when driving. This is after the car warms up, completely runs fine in the first 2-3 minutes of driving cold.
Came back to my mechanic, he advised that this may be a learning process for the car to get used to the new parts? not sure..
Been driving like this for about 2500kms since the repair, CEL has not come back (thank goodness), but the car still jerks :L
It will only jerk when I lightly press on the gas, but does not when I press it quickly. At that 'jerking' point (1500RPM) the motor kind of makes a weird sound, almost sounding like a diesel engine for the fraction of the second it jerks.
The car idles fine, BUT when I gas the car in neutral, the car will sort of 'jitters?' or RPM surge at 1500RPM and again at 1900RPM. After the 2000RPM mark the car runs perfectly. Not sure whats going on?
Does the exhaust valve timing need a re-learn? spark plug replacement? Any help/advise is much appreciated
Bump from the dead. 
Mine does this too, there is a re-learn procedure for it, however, I cannot seem to get it to work. I have suspicions that my VTC Covers need replacing, no codes as of yet.
89K, just did my gallery gaskets last spring.
Mine does this too, there is a re-learn procedure for it, however, I cannot seem to get it to work. I have suspicions that my VTC Covers need replacing, no codes as of yet.
89K, just did my gallery gaskets last spring.
Did either of you guys figure out a good for this. I spent a ton of money at the dealer getting the gallery gaskets done and now it does this too. I'm debating on replacing the vtc covers myself now.
My Z won't be back on the road till spring, but I hope to send some data logs to Z1 or SOHO to potentially get some insight as to what the issue is. If it's the VTC Covers, I will do them myself. The relearn procedure seems really straightforward, so I would try that.
Any update guys
I have exactly same issues
I disconnected the vtc right side car working good , left side same good , both sides still good
only stumbling at 1k when I am plugging both sides
what you did guys should I replace mine too ?
I have exactly same issues
I disconnected the vtc right side car working good , left side same good , both sides still good
only stumbling at 1k when I am plugging both sides
what you did guys should I replace mine too ?
I haven't had a chance to get the car data logged for this issue. Oddly enough, though. I switch oil and cleaned my MAFs and the issue isn't as bad. Quaker State full Synthetic instead of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. 540 Rat oil blog has that rated as the best 5w-30 right now. I feel that data logging, and intentionally looking for issues with the VTC system is the only way to know for sure what it is or at least contributing factors.
Trending Topics
I also have this problem. From what I understand it may be a problem with the ECU. The software for the stock ecu has a known problem (bug), that can show up after the ECU is reset. I'm assuming you guys have disconnected the battery at some point, during the other repairs.
The solution is to down load the 08 soft ware to the ECU.
Understand I haven't tried this fix yet but it is still a good possibility for a solution.
My. 02.
Last edited by EJohn; Sep 21, 2022 at 09:45 AM.
I also have this problem. From what I understand it may be a problem with the ECU. The software for the stock ecu has a known problem (bug), that can show up after the ECU is reset. I'm assuming you guys have disconnected the battery at some point, during the other repairs.
The solution is to down load the 08 soft ware to the ECU.
Understand I haven't tried this fix yet but it is still a good possibility for a solution.
My. 02.
The solution is to down load the 08 soft ware to the ECU.
Understand I haven't tried this fix yet but it is still a good possibility for a solution.
My. 02.
I have a 350z HR 57 plate, do you know if I would still need to do this 08 software download?
it seems when I unplug my battery I get this engine jolt reappear and I have to take it to get my map flashed at £250 a time 😭
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CK_32
Engine & Drivetrain
2
Jan 8, 2018 03:50 PM
JCat
Engine & Drivetrain
18
Jan 11, 2011 03:23 PM






