18" Wheel & Tire Discussion Thread
#741
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https://my350z.com/forum/competition-items-474/ a few great deals here in 17's. Cheap as hell to run on the track, there are a couple of downsides but.... they may suit your needs for the next few years.
Rota aslo has 18x9 and 18x10 wheel combo's. Pretty much my wheel of choice that is under Enkei. Seriously, they are great track wheels that will take one hell of a beating.
Rota aslo has 18x9 and 18x10 wheel combo's. Pretty much my wheel of choice that is under Enkei. Seriously, they are great track wheels that will take one hell of a beating.
#744
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Okay, I'm thinking 265/40/18's on 18x9" rims on all four corners. This way there is no chance of rubbing, about 3/4 of an inch wider on the rears, a little more on the fronts, and no significant change in speedo reading and shouldn't confuse ABS.
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#746
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This is what I've settled on:
18x9 rims with 35mm offset on all four corners with 275/40/18 tires
These tires will give some additional width, but will have the same sidewall height so speedo will be same and no potential ABS issues.
Several questions: The offset calculators list 18mm less clearance on the inside with an 18x9 rim with 35mm offset on the front. I haven't made measurements but I do wonder if that will be a problem for the outside edge of the spindle assembly. Anyone have a guess?
TireRack lists an included hardware kit that comes with lug bolts and centering rings. Why do I need new lug bolts? Will the new lug bolts work with my stock rims? If I do need new lug bolts should I buy something better like a set from ARP or something comparable?
And what are centering rings?
18x9 rims with 35mm offset on all four corners with 275/40/18 tires
These tires will give some additional width, but will have the same sidewall height so speedo will be same and no potential ABS issues.
Several questions: The offset calculators list 18mm less clearance on the inside with an 18x9 rim with 35mm offset on the front. I haven't made measurements but I do wonder if that will be a problem for the outside edge of the spindle assembly. Anyone have a guess?
TireRack lists an included hardware kit that comes with lug bolts and centering rings. Why do I need new lug bolts? Will the new lug bolts work with my stock rims? If I do need new lug bolts should I buy something better like a set from ARP or something comparable?
And what are centering rings?
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will 18x9 +5 (+25 but 20mm spacer added) work up front without any rubbing issues? 255/35 on it and lowered on tanabe nf210 springs.
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After a ton of research and a lot of help on the NASA forums, here is what I've been able to come up with. First, changing wheels is COMPLICATED. Every thing that is different from stock starts a cascade of adaptations.
And a note to the mods. These long threads lumped under a broad heading like 18" wheels leads to threads that are hundreds of posts long and are almost impossible to extract relevant info from. It might be in there but digging it out is a pain.
Front:
Wheels: 18x9 with 35mm offset. If ordered from TireRack they come with centering rings but I do not know if they will be plastic or aluminum. Plastic will likely melt onto the spacer so may need to buy aluminum.
Spacers: According to the offset calculator and a race tire shop this will require a 20mm spacer. I am going to use a spacer that slips over the wheel studs. Will likely go with H&R or Eibach. I'm open to cheaper alternatives if I can find them, but not the super cheap junk on eBay.
Wheel studs: The spacer and the added thickness of the aftermarket rim will require longer wheel studs. The spacers come with longer wheel studs of unknown length or quality. Since this car will be tracked I am going to get 3" ARP racing studs. The old studs will have to be hammered out since I'm not going to pull the hubs off.
Lug Nuts: With longer studs I will need open ended lug nuts. Muteki makes long, open ended lug nuts and come with a thin walled socket.
Tires: 275/40/18
Rear:
Everything the same except 10mm spacers.
As you can see, unless you are buying wheels identical to stock you open up a huge can of worms when changing wheels. You also have to open up your wallet. A set of 20 ARP studs will cost around $140. The spacers will be around $260. A good set of lightweight long or open ended lug nuts can cost well over $100.
Hopefully this might help someone else. Please let me know if there are glaring errors since none of this has been purchased or put on the car yet.
And a note to the mods. These long threads lumped under a broad heading like 18" wheels leads to threads that are hundreds of posts long and are almost impossible to extract relevant info from. It might be in there but digging it out is a pain.
Front:
Wheels: 18x9 with 35mm offset. If ordered from TireRack they come with centering rings but I do not know if they will be plastic or aluminum. Plastic will likely melt onto the spacer so may need to buy aluminum.
Spacers: According to the offset calculator and a race tire shop this will require a 20mm spacer. I am going to use a spacer that slips over the wheel studs. Will likely go with H&R or Eibach. I'm open to cheaper alternatives if I can find them, but not the super cheap junk on eBay.
Wheel studs: The spacer and the added thickness of the aftermarket rim will require longer wheel studs. The spacers come with longer wheel studs of unknown length or quality. Since this car will be tracked I am going to get 3" ARP racing studs. The old studs will have to be hammered out since I'm not going to pull the hubs off.
Lug Nuts: With longer studs I will need open ended lug nuts. Muteki makes long, open ended lug nuts and come with a thin walled socket.
Tires: 275/40/18
Rear:
Everything the same except 10mm spacers.
As you can see, unless you are buying wheels identical to stock you open up a huge can of worms when changing wheels. You also have to open up your wallet. A set of 20 ARP studs will cost around $140. The spacers will be around $260. A good set of lightweight long or open ended lug nuts can cost well over $100.
Hopefully this might help someone else. Please let me know if there are glaring errors since none of this has been purchased or put on the car yet.
Last edited by N80; 05-06-2012 at 09:49 AM.
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Hey guys right now my current setup is:
Front
225/40/18
18x8.0
Offset 30
Rear
245/40/18
18x9.0
offset 38
I found a good deal on some tires, they are 275/35/18
Could I run these in my rear and move my 245's up to the front?
Front
225/40/18
18x8.0
Offset 30
Rear
245/40/18
18x9.0
offset 38
I found a good deal on some tires, they are 275/35/18
Could I run these in my rear and move my 245's up to the front?
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I would just start over , front and rear tires, wheels and all.
#753
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https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-nissan-350z/197329-the-top-100-common-questions.html
Your question is answered here:
https://my350z.com/forum/4936171-post42.html
#754
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So i bought Tanabe GF210 springs for a better look while i save up for coil overs and other goodies...i know they drop 1' front 1.2' rear...i got black edition rpf1s and i like the meaty look plus the tread on the BF G-force looks sick to me lol...so i need your help should i go with 295/35/18 or 295/30/18? i dont want wheel gap
thanks for the advice
thanks for the advice
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you would need a 100mm spacers to make those flush lol jk on the real just save your money and wait for some better offsets the ones sound like there for a s2000 or something
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After a ton of research and a lot of help on the NASA forums, here is what I've been able to come up with. First, changing wheels is COMPLICATED. Every thing that is different from stock starts a cascade of adaptations.
And a note to the mods. These long threads lumped under a broad heading like 18" wheels leads to threads that are hundreds of posts long and are almost impossible to extract relevant info from. It might be in there but digging it out is a pain.
Front:
Wheels: 18x9 with 35mm offset. If ordered from TireRack they come with centering rings but I do not know if they will be plastic or aluminum. Plastic will likely melt onto the spacer so may need to buy aluminum.
Spacers: According to the offset calculator and a race tire shop this will require a 20mm spacer. I am going to use a spacer that slips over the wheel studs. Will likely go with H&R or Eibach. I'm open to cheaper alternatives if I can find them, but not the super cheap junk on eBay.
Wheel studs: The spacer and the added thickness of the aftermarket rim will require longer wheel studs. The spacers come with longer wheel studs of unknown length or quality. Since this car will be tracked I am going to get 3" ARP racing studs. The old studs will have to be hammered out since I'm not going to pull the hubs off.
Lug Nuts: With longer studs I will need open ended lug nuts. Muteki makes long, open ended lug nuts and come with a thin walled socket.
Tires: 275/40/18
Rear:
Everything the same except 10mm spacers.
As you can see, unless you are buying wheels identical to stock you open up a huge can of worms when changing wheels. You also have to open up your wallet. A set of 20 ARP studs will cost around $140. The spacers will be around $260. A good set of lightweight long or open ended lug nuts can cost well over $100.
Hopefully this might help someone else. Please let me know if there are glaring errors since none of this has been purchased or put on the car yet.
And a note to the mods. These long threads lumped under a broad heading like 18" wheels leads to threads that are hundreds of posts long and are almost impossible to extract relevant info from. It might be in there but digging it out is a pain.
Front:
Wheels: 18x9 with 35mm offset. If ordered from TireRack they come with centering rings but I do not know if they will be plastic or aluminum. Plastic will likely melt onto the spacer so may need to buy aluminum.
Spacers: According to the offset calculator and a race tire shop this will require a 20mm spacer. I am going to use a spacer that slips over the wheel studs. Will likely go with H&R or Eibach. I'm open to cheaper alternatives if I can find them, but not the super cheap junk on eBay.
Wheel studs: The spacer and the added thickness of the aftermarket rim will require longer wheel studs. The spacers come with longer wheel studs of unknown length or quality. Since this car will be tracked I am going to get 3" ARP racing studs. The old studs will have to be hammered out since I'm not going to pull the hubs off.
Lug Nuts: With longer studs I will need open ended lug nuts. Muteki makes long, open ended lug nuts and come with a thin walled socket.
Tires: 275/40/18
Rear:
Everything the same except 10mm spacers.
As you can see, unless you are buying wheels identical to stock you open up a huge can of worms when changing wheels. You also have to open up your wallet. A set of 20 ARP studs will cost around $140. The spacers will be around $260. A good set of lightweight long or open ended lug nuts can cost well over $100.
Hopefully this might help someone else. Please let me know if there are glaring errors since none of this has been purchased or put on the car yet.