How do you use tire pressure sensors?
#1
How do you use tire pressure sensors?
On new wheels? I am getting my rims this coming week and just wanted to know from those who have gotten rims already.. how do you put the sensors on the new wheels? Do they attach using silicone (that would take 1-2 days to dry), or do they attach using some other method?
#2
depends on the new wheels.. supposedly volks can take the whole air nozzle assembly. but i know if it doesnt fit, you can epoxy the blue box to the inside of the wheel. it will take about a day to fully dry.
m
m
#5
That's the first diagram like that I've seen and it brings up a good point. I've been considering HRE 445R's for my Z, and have been told the sensors are sure to work...but I'm going to be buying reversed lip wheels (with flat lip instead of stepped). Who knows whether the sensors have to be within a certain degree of stock in order to operate properly? Since they somehow operate on the rotation (20mph min. for accurate readings)...I assume they have to be kept at a certain angle? Is this true. I'd like to be sure I know all the facts as this is a nice feature I'd like to keep and don't want to epoxy the box in and risk it jarring loose at any point.
#6
Originally posted by Driven
That's the first diagram like that I've seen and it brings up a good point. I've been considering HRE 445R's for my Z, and have been told the sensors are sure to work...but I'm going to be buying reversed lip wheels (with flat lip instead of stepped). Who knows whether the sensors have to be within a certain degree of stock in order to operate properly? Since they somehow operate on the rotation (20mph min. for accurate readings)...I assume they have to be kept at a certain angle? Is this true. I'd like to be sure I know all the facts as this is a nice feature I'd like to keep and don't want to epoxy the box in and risk it jarring loose at any point.
That's the first diagram like that I've seen and it brings up a good point. I've been considering HRE 445R's for my Z, and have been told the sensors are sure to work...but I'm going to be buying reversed lip wheels (with flat lip instead of stepped). Who knows whether the sensors have to be within a certain degree of stock in order to operate properly? Since they somehow operate on the rotation (20mph min. for accurate readings)...I assume they have to be kept at a certain angle? Is this true. I'd like to be sure I know all the facts as this is a nice feature I'd like to keep and don't want to epoxy the box in and risk it jarring loose at any point.
m
#7
I agree...he probably didn't sit there and calculate any angles...but based on the diagram, the most likely final angle if glued would be very close to what the valve stem would hold the box at when installed. Because the angle of the wheel where the valve stem insertion point is will ultimately determine the angle of the box...I'm asking this question. Since I don't want to epoxy mine, and the flush or flat barrel of the wheel I am considering will be significantly different than angle of the stock wheel...I'm trying to get better informed.
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#8
Originally posted by Driven
Who knows whether the sensors have to be within a certain degree of stock in order to operate properly? Since they somehow operate on the rotation (20mph min. for accurate readings)...I assume they have to be kept at a certain angle? Is this true.
Who knows whether the sensors have to be within a certain degree of stock in order to operate properly? Since they somehow operate on the rotation (20mph min. for accurate readings)...I assume they have to be kept at a certain angle? Is this true.
#10
Originally posted by ChinaClipper
I believe that the angle is important only so that at 20 mph, there is enough centrifugal force generated to close a switch inside the transducer to activate the battery to activate the TP sensor. The Nissan supplier of the TPM sensors, Schrader Electronics, rates the sensor at a "10 year battery and 150,000 mile durability." I suppose that there is a certain mounting angle for the package beyond which the internal switch would not close.
I believe that the angle is important only so that at 20 mph, there is enough centrifugal force generated to close a switch inside the transducer to activate the battery to activate the TP sensor. The Nissan supplier of the TPM sensors, Schrader Electronics, rates the sensor at a "10 year battery and 150,000 mile durability." I suppose that there is a certain mounting angle for the package beyond which the internal switch would not close.
anyway, i would say that the sensor could be rotated 180 degrees (with the valve stem pointing into the inside of the rim). i deduced this because the sensors are not directional.. (no left/right side designations or part numbers).
because of this, i would guess the switch operates in the vertical plane, since also that is where the centripetal (towards the center) force would be applied.
because of this, i would say as long as the sensor box is mounted with the "bottom side" (as pictured above) is flush with the rim, the sensor will work, because the switch will be activated by the centripetal force.
m
ps: centrifugal force, or by definition the force applied outward from the center is not a "real" force in physics. normally this force is explained by tension or the Normal force. these are the "equal and opposite" force to centripetal force.
#11
I knew there was a reason I didn't pursue physics after my first taste of it in highschool! So, SKidazzle...could you shorten up your explaination as it might apply to me/my situation? If I don't want to glue the box to the wheel....AND I buy a reversed lip wheel (flat barrel), will the varience in the angle negate the on/off of it's intended function? Whether I rotate the box 180 degrees or not, it's actual angle relative to centripetal force will be approximately 40 degrees different (I'm guessing on that figure). AND...I'm using terminology I just learned...so don't bust my ***** if I used it incorrectly...just let me know if you understand what I mean and try to answer my question if you can.
Thanks
Thanks
#12
Originally posted by Driven
I knew there was a reason I didn't pursue physics after my first taste of it in highschool! So, SKidazzle...could you shorten up your explaination as it might apply to me/my situation? If I don't want to glue the box to the wheel....AND I buy a reversed lip wheel (flat barrel), will the varience in the angle negate the on/off of it's intended function? Whether I rotate the box 180 degrees or not, it's actual angle relative to centripetal force will be approximately 40 degrees different (I'm guessing on that figure). AND...I'm using terminology I just learned...so don't bust my ***** if I used it incorrectly...just let me know if you understand what I mean and try to answer my question if you can.
Thanks
I knew there was a reason I didn't pursue physics after my first taste of it in highschool! So, SKidazzle...could you shorten up your explaination as it might apply to me/my situation? If I don't want to glue the box to the wheel....AND I buy a reversed lip wheel (flat barrel), will the varience in the angle negate the on/off of it's intended function? Whether I rotate the box 180 degrees or not, it's actual angle relative to centripetal force will be approximately 40 degrees different (I'm guessing on that figure). AND...I'm using terminology I just learned...so don't bust my ***** if I used it incorrectly...just let me know if you understand what I mean and try to answer my question if you can.
Thanks
the amount of force the switch see is Force*cos (theta)
in the stock case... cos (90) = 1...
so in your case of 40 degrees, its Force * cos (40) which equals Force * .766
what does this mean? well the short story is the wheel will have to spin faster (create more centripetal force) to activate it... there is no way to figure out how much faster, without knowing the mass of the switch and a lot of other crap.
NOTE: as long as the angle isnt 90 degrees, (mounting the box on a "side") the sensor will work, but at higher and higher speeds required. this is because the cosine of 90 = 0.
again... this is one of those things that needs to be DONE to be sure. this is all ASSUMING the switch is perperndicular to the rim base.
m
#14
Sounds like the best way to proceed is as follows: Temporarily mount one of the sensors in your new wheels and just "look" at the increased angle over it's previous position in stock. Then, if it is significant you need to decide: Am I going to glue the box to the rim? (assuring similar operation to stock, but not guaranteeing it is going to stay "stuck"...could break loose and completely ruin/break the sensor) or...mount it "as is" and figure it will operate, but may require additional speed to do so accurately. At least that's my plan. Thanks all for feedback.
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