Aggressive Wheels and Stretched Tires....Welcome
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I read on zilvia that you have a 6in lip. a 6in. lip with an lxz will definitely not have the offset of -16. It is to weak. Looking at the face of your wheel it seems to me that you have the concave faces and from personal experience, My buddy who had the same set of wheels with a 6in lip had the offset of 18x12-25ish ie 6in inner barrel 6in outter lip. Now assuming that you have the concave faces, your off set for your 18x11.5's with a 5.5 barrel and a 6in lip should be the realm of -34ishh, don't quote me on any of this though lol
You can also run a 235-40 tire that may solve your issue, or like what the other's said, pull your fenders. I would personally run the smaller tire. I made the mistake of pulling fenders
You can also run a 235-40 tire that may solve your issue, or like what the other's said, pull your fenders. I would personally run the smaller tire. I made the mistake of pulling fenders
Last edited by mrfobbyaccent; 03-04-2014 at 11:30 PM.
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I might go at it a bit more, but it's seems to get sloppier and sloppier as I go, even when I use more heat and go slower with the roller.
Yeah I will try and go at it again, but I am not liking the results.
Thank you for your feedback and suggestion. I have done the phone book roll a bit and I like it better than using the actually roller to pull. I just need a thicker one now.
I'm debating either 235/40 or 245/35... I should probably go with a 235/40 since it seems to be the more common tire size. Thank you again for the input, I'm assuming my wheel is somewhere in the -20 to -30 offset range.
I will just leave another photo here, to keep this thread on track.
There is just no way in hell your offset is right. But they look great. I'm running 18x12 -12 with a 255/40 with 0 camber (I even have room for a larger spacer since I raised the car a tad) . What I would do is heat up your fender real nice, jack the car up and put a phone book or a thinner phone book type book in the fender and let the jack down slowly. That's what I did, you won't get waves and the fender will just form to the tire. You could also roll it slowly if ya want either way works.
I read on zilvia that you have a 6in lip. a 6in. lip with an lxz will definitely not have the offset of -16. It is to weak. Looking at the face of your wheel it seems to me that you have the concave faces and from personal experience, My buddy who had the same set of wheels with a 6in lip had the offset of 18x12-25ish ie 6in inner barrel 6in outter lip. Now assuming that you have the concave faces, your off set for your 18x11.5's with a 5.5 barrel and a 6in lip should be the realm of -34ishh, don't quote me on any of this though lol
You can also run a 235-40 tire that may solve your issue, or like what the other's said, pull your fenders. I would personally run the smaller tire. I made the mistake of pulling fenders
You can also run a 235-40 tire that may solve your issue, or like what the other's said, pull your fenders. I would personally run the smaller tire. I made the mistake of pulling fenders
I will just leave another photo here, to keep this thread on track.
Last edited by albertsZ; 03-05-2014 at 07:46 AM.
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So I finally did my homework and was able to calculate my wheel offset and alla that. Turns out the guy who sold me the wheels was completely clueless about his wheel size and offset after he got them relipped...
First I measured the rear barrel and got 6 inches.
and then here I measured front barrel and got 6inches...
and then I do an overall measurement and get 12.5.... but I read that you are supposed to measure from where the tire bead sits... so you take away approx about an inch so effectively 11.5
Then I did some more measuring and measured the hub to the top end of the barrel and got 5.5 inches, which corresponds 139.7mm. This is also called backspacing.
To measure offset (at least from my sources) you take the wheel width (11.5in=292.1) then divide it by 2. 292.1mm/2 = 146.05mm. This measurement is where 0 offset is located. Then you take this measurement and subtract it from the backspacing measurement. 139.7(backspacing) - 146.05 (0 offset location) = -6?
So my wheel is actually 18x11.5 -6... can anyone confirm my results? I've been going back and fourth at this all morning. Would mos def appreciate it.
I hope that is helpful to anyone reading this.
First I measured the rear barrel and got 6 inches.
and then here I measured front barrel and got 6inches...
and then I do an overall measurement and get 12.5.... but I read that you are supposed to measure from where the tire bead sits... so you take away approx about an inch so effectively 11.5
Then I did some more measuring and measured the hub to the top end of the barrel and got 5.5 inches, which corresponds 139.7mm. This is also called backspacing.
To measure offset (at least from my sources) you take the wheel width (11.5in=292.1) then divide it by 2. 292.1mm/2 = 146.05mm. This measurement is where 0 offset is located. Then you take this measurement and subtract it from the backspacing measurement. 139.7(backspacing) - 146.05 (0 offset location) = -6?
So my wheel is actually 18x11.5 -6... can anyone confirm my results? I've been going back and fourth at this all morning. Would mos def appreciate it.
I hope that is helpful to anyone reading this.
Last edited by albertsZ; 03-06-2014 at 08:53 AM.
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-6 sounds right.. I was at -5 for a while and rocked like -7 camber though so it is very possible. And that was on an 11 with 255/35/19. My advice for you if you don't want to do body work is to get them re-barrelled. Or sell them to me :P
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nope totally wrong. You took your backspacing measure based on width of 12.5 so that 292.1 you used should be ~317.5.
If you knew the face type and disk type, it would be pretty easy to tell their exact offset. http://kranze.jp/english/lxz.html check the specs they are different for FR and FF faces.
In any case, those are definitely more aggressive than 18x11.5 -6.
Wheel market problems are :
1- 95% of ppl don't have a clue how offsets actually work, so they buy/trade/sell without knowing what's really in the deal.
2- most ppl don't even know there are different disk types made. Fact is how often do you see a FS ad with disk type listed? Almost never, yet it's VERY important.
3- ppl lie and make up random offsets all the time. Take any wheels, let's say equips for instance, I've seen ppl refer to them as 18x12 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6- 7- 8- 9- 10, while the truth is only 12 -4 (R disk) and -5 (O disk) were in the offset I just listed as example.
as a reference.. my car with 18x12-5 running -3* camber and they can easily tuck inside under full compression. My fenders are obviously pulled but nothing crazy like some of the other guys in here.
If you knew the face type and disk type, it would be pretty easy to tell their exact offset. http://kranze.jp/english/lxz.html check the specs they are different for FR and FF faces.
In any case, those are definitely more aggressive than 18x11.5 -6.
Wheel market problems are :
1- 95% of ppl don't have a clue how offsets actually work, so they buy/trade/sell without knowing what's really in the deal.
2- most ppl don't even know there are different disk types made. Fact is how often do you see a FS ad with disk type listed? Almost never, yet it's VERY important.
3- ppl lie and make up random offsets all the time. Take any wheels, let's say equips for instance, I've seen ppl refer to them as 18x12 -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6- 7- 8- 9- 10, while the truth is only 12 -4 (R disk) and -5 (O disk) were in the offset I just listed as example.
as a reference.. my car with 18x12-5 running -3* camber and they can easily tuck inside under full compression. My fenders are obviously pulled but nothing crazy like some of the other guys in here.
Fender pulling max
Can someone help me out with a question about pulling? In your guys experience, how much room are you getting with max pull on the front and rear of the Z? If I ran for example a 19x10.5 +12 all around, what size spacer could I run to be flush? Thanks. I was thinking in the -20's.
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What do you consider flush? Do you want the super stretched tire crap with -10 degrees of camber , proper fitting tires with proper camber , or somewhere in the middle.
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Just throw a 245/40 on the rear and run with about -1.5 rear camber and a 10 mm spacer , you will have a nice poke and only need a normal roll. The a 245/35 front no spacer, set camber to make it sit flush with the ride height you choose.
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