AdvanZ33

iTrader: (105)

Yes it replaces the stock studs. Look into the Ichiba V1 spacer kits and buy some open end lug nuts.

Daytondakid13

Sweet that's what I'll do then thanks!

VMRWheels

VMRWheels

Spacers will definitely help, and there are vendors on this site that sell them.

For deciding what size, simply measure.

HaroldStewar

The best option is to get new wheels with an aggressive off set but if you're on a budget like me

Reez

To all the Z-owners posting in this thread
Only came across it now, after I posted my query,,,so, my bad...
This thread has certainly put a smile on my dial...Thanx for the valuable info guys...Keep up the good work Like they say..." Burn rubber & not your soul"..

Moussa93

iTrader: (1)

Hey people,
I'm new around...

Trying to get some spacers for my first mod .. Some 25/30 with OEM Wheels PlastiDiped in Black...

So I have a question... I know that this is a noob question but... Which one should I go for?

VMRWheels

Which brand or which size?

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

This might have already been answered but what size spacer (w/ built in lugs) is needed for the wheel to clear the stock studs? (If the wheel does not have gaps in between each stud hole)

Edit- nvm found the answer.. 25mm

-Trav-

iTrader: (37)

Id say it depends on whether your fenders are rolled and how low you are.

pss350z

iTrader: (6)

I just picked up a set of Volks off another member and turns out that the 9.5 +12 J will not clear my brembos by a C#$T hair. Just barely grabs the damn caliper. I'm looking for the smallest wheel spacer possible that isn't absolute junk. The smallest I've seen is 2.5 mm at Z1 motorsports, are there smaller than this or should I just go with what I found?

Any suggestions?

link to 2.5 mm....
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3118

What a kick in the nutz

JCITY

iTrader: (2)

Good God man,2.5mm,thats small!Any smaller it will be in the tin foil range and crack.
Basically you need to shim the wheels a bit to get clearance.These thin spacers are
available at all the auto chain stores.
Go with the 2.5.

AdvanZ33

iTrader: (105)

I ran these at one point. No problems:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-KICS-3...8bbedf&vxp=mtr

mikes10

- just get the one from z1 motorsports -

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

That is some low quality high priced GayDM crap right there.

The Z1 spacers are from billet, not cheap cast.

pss350z

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the suggestion,but i have to agree that they look very snappable/crackable/sh!tty.

A buddy had .1875" spacers he gave me, just barely grabs the hubcentric ring due to the huge chamfer on it (chamfer on the hubcentric ring) I think i can get away with 2.5 mm. I'm a machinist so I may just make my own if I can get my hands on some higher grade aluminium. Sucks to have to run spacers with +12 offset wheels, already pushing the limits with fender clearance, now I'll definately have to run more camber.

A before and quick pic after....

9.5/10.5 +15 RPF1s


9.5/10.5 +12 J Te37s


I also need to change up the rear tire, for some reason the original owner ran 275/30-19, looks like a rubber band. Also, black lugs are in order.

Damn, I'm looking at the before picture and thinking WHY?

pss350z

iTrader: (6)

My crappy pic doesn't do these wheels justice. The wife even says there's no comparison. But If the RPF1s were darker I'd probably have stuck with them as they wouldn't look as small as they do with the silver to black contrast you see here. I've seen some beauties, i believe sparco's Z is rockin the black RPF1s and looks amazing.

Will have to contribute with some nicer pics in the Magnetic and Volk threads.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Silver looked way better on your dark car, the new wheels just blend in a look bla.

joshie3.5.0.z

so i need someone to clear it up for me , is it really unsafe to use spacers? i heard so many things

-Trav-

iTrader: (37)

If youre really worried about safety go with a slip on spacer with extended studs. You dont have to worry about stripped nuts, easy install (after you press the studs into the hub) and easier to re-torque if needed.

Less links in the chain means less chance for errors and/or failure.