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Well...

Nothing...

You have push to hard unlike a hood which is flat

It takes a little more than your buddy leaning on the quarter panel...

Plus my car is low...so leaning on my car is more like leaning on the trunk area, and not directly on the quarter...

 

cool good luck. Can't wait to see the end result.

 

Here are my fatty's 255/40/r18 front 285/40/r18 rear. Rota P45Rs 18x9.5 all around

 

King so you cut the inside and then hammered it as flat as possible? U guys lit a fire in my A$$...lol I'm going to go measure how big of spacer I need to push it out more, lol...

ok here's a question if anyone knows,

Every -1 camber frees up how many mm?

U get my question, lol

Also Toby I'm sure hounding know what camber you were @ huh??? Nut can u give me an estimate

King you too, give me an estimat of @ what camber ur @????


I think I'm going to push it too -3
What do you guys think? Too much or too little???

Needs some answers fast so I can order the spacers and get this shot done...lol

Oh and right now I'm around -1/-1.5 camber with 25mm offsets,

I don't remember exactly the camber spec, maybe -2 idk lol... I'm going to measure this bish right now..lmao

 

i was bored so i thought i would figure this out. i did an autocad drawing of 1, 3 and 4 degrees along with how far the wheel pushes. stock at 1 degree is about 0.38" so subtracting that from the 1.19" and 1.53", we get 0.81"(18.71mm) and 1.14"(29.08mm) of a push at 3 and 4 degrees, respectively. so basically measure your current distance from top of wheel to fender and see how much more you want.


ninja edit: this is all theoretical and does not account for how the tire acts under weight. just something to think about. oh, and the drawing is in mm

 

Because he autox's his car etc. Id love to see you provide how he is not using his setup properly.

 

2007 nismo rims
18x9 +25 25mm spacers 2.4* of camber
19x10 +25 30mm spacers 2.8* of camber

anythimg more than this will wear very fast! very fast

I have ran this for a year on shitty nexxen brand tires to experiment. When I replaced the rear...with falkens 452...the rears had about a good 30% left. Again heavy use, but not daily driven...I don't daily my car so roughly 9-10k miles under heavy use. So be warned your going to look for tires on a yearly bases if you go for more camber than 2.8...

plus it isn't useable camber...

the point of camber has been abused to fit rims and tires. The point of camber is to optimize a tire's performance in a corner at high apex or high speed turn...

for street/auto X using anything more than 3* cannot be used, cause your not gonna be hitting 160-180 in a turn on the way to work...

NOTE
I'm not an expert like some of these auto x folks that swear there track experts...I drive my car aswell...along with reading lots of forums/experiences/books/vids...

So listen to them and them alone...not me

I cut my wheel well in hopes of a new rim selection and tire size..seeing this setup rubs...I'm going to with a wider rim yet sizing the tire to be almost the same as I'm running right now...

285 on a 10 inch is kinda fat so on a 12 inch hopefully 295/305 should be the same side wall...

 

Correct. Autox is mostly a momentum sport, and grip is paramount. The more grip you can put down, the more momentum you can carry through the transitions. A good suspension with compression and rebound control is a close second in importance. To stay in (stock) classes, autocrossers will put huge tires on otherwise-small wheels. This from the likes of National champions, so it's absolutely proven. My 305s on the 10" wheels were 1/2" under the standard recommended wheel width, as were the 285s I used to run on 9" wheels.

Tire weight is not a huge factor. You are talking about approximately 1# of total tire weight increase for every 10mm added in width, i.e. the 305 tire weighs 2# more than the 285. Race tires, like the Kumho V710 and the Hoosier A/R6, are also much lighter than your standard Bridgestone tire. For example, a 285/30/18 Bridgestone RE050A Pole Position (non-RunFlat) weighs 30#. That same size in the Kumho is 25#, and 24# for the Hoosier. If 285 is the "standard" size for a tire upgrade, and one is balking at a 305 as being too heavy, note that a 305/30/19 actually weighs 2# less than the same brand/model in a 285/35/19 since there is less tire volume. Even if it was an increase of 2#, a forged wheel vs a cast wheel makes up 2-3x that amount.

If you want data, take a look at the local and national champions tire sizes. I guarantee they are 20-30% larger than what that vehicle comes with stock. For a 350Z, that means upgrading the standard 225/245 to approximately 270-295 for the fronts and 295-315 for the rears. Up next, for me, 315s (without all that fender pulling/pounding/cutting action).

 

pfft....we have national level autocrossers that put 295 and 305's on 8-8 1/2" wheels. That......is a fat tire for the wheel.

 

wait, this isnt the hellaflush thread?

 

yet you cannot ignore that if your car was lower you'd have way way less body roll than what's depicted in your avatar...

this I hope you know...a lower center of gravity never hurts...

 

go buy a minivan

 

that's dangerous IMHO

why won't they buy a correct rim to fit those tires...

 

They must run stock width wheels and can only run offsets +/-5mm....for a lot of vehicles there aren't any options other than stock. No one would run that tire size on street car. Wider, even pinched onto small wheels, has been proven over and over again to be quicker.

I would ignore it. You want some travel. Lower center of gravity is all good, but the tracks here on the east coast are notoriously bumpy. I don't wish to replace lower control arms, exhaust, etc every event.

 

Lower your center of gravity too much and you throw the suspension geometry out the window. Keep going though this is fun

 

pretty sure scotts Z is lowered.... but his tire selection usually a 30 profile for clearance, makes his wheel well gap seem larger. The car in general is probably much lower than stock. and of course there is the threshold when too low is bad.

 

hmmmm...bumpy...all the tracks?.....hmmmm

so there is no time attack events?

I'm sure timeattack cars are lower than me, and more purposely built...

so again your avoiding what some of us here are trying to achieve...

stance with a purpose!


it is fun for me aswell..seeing your being ignorant...

I know he is but in the end all his weight is still at stock hieght...

defeats the purpose kinda...

 

I'm going to when people start making new asking if the need to create custom fenders after seeing Kings pics...

The OP's setup is still my favorite of the thread after all these years.

 

Kingbaby, you do realize that many time attack cars have custom sub-frame, hubs, moved pick-up points, etc. These allow them to make drastic changes while maintaining optimal geometry. Most of those mods are illegal in most (certainly not all) amatuer racing. There is also substantial cost in terms of resources (both monetary and intellectual) to get those cars to work right. The Z handles very well. On top of the hardware changes....many of those cars have hacked off the fenders and molded in wider flares (but you know this).

Most of the time trial cars here have some wheel gap....There are some smoother tracks, but the majority are bumpy. You can't build a car to suit one or two circuits....it needs to work everywhere.