tire change esp kicks in
#1
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tire change esp kicks in
Just changed my rear tires, had 265/35/19 with 275/35/19 (front 245/35/19). Handling is now very bad , when I change direction on speeds more than 100km the read wobbles like hell and on speeds 60-80 sometimes the esp kicks in.
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#9
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Are the fronts seriously worn?
Check the tire all around to make absolutely positive those are the sizes that are installed. Shops have been known to make mistakes and mix up sizes or placement of tires.
If the tires are directional, make sure they are installed properly.
Do you have different brand/model of tires on front and rear?
Check the tire all around to make absolutely positive those are the sizes that are installed. Shops have been known to make mistakes and mix up sizes or placement of tires.
If the tires are directional, make sure they are installed properly.
Do you have different brand/model of tires on front and rear?
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First of all THANKS for that many replys in a couple of hours. Used to wait a couple of days for an answer on some other forums and I feel a bit bad that I wasn’t here to reply, so:
Rims: AZEV Two piece wheels Wheel Type: PS 9,5 * 19
Fronts Goodyear EAGLE F1 GS-D3 speed rank 96Y 275/35/19, rear same 245/35/19 (fairly new). Direction is checked and is fine.
Balancing not done, Ive been told to do a couple of hundred km before, so the tires will sit fine on the rims , I thinks its true. I can feel vibrations though after doing more than 160km/h. I don’t think that balancing causes my problem with stability.
Its feels like Im heaving a 500kgm tank full of water at my boot and every time I try to steer the water moves the tale half a second after it should do and 5cm further.
The problem with the ESP (Electronic Stability Program, that was one of the best ever heard GeauxLadyZ, and thank god that this program does predict the future) I can say that is usually due to the change of total radius. My new tires have a bigger step than the old almost slick worn tyres, but Y esp kicks in only at bending around 60-80 and only when NOT pushing. The funny think is that using the old tires the car was bending better (10 to 15 km more on the same bent) . Alignment hasn’t been done yet which is the next think Im gona do, but still I can not see how this can change it that much.
THANKS again and excuse my English
Rims: AZEV Two piece wheels Wheel Type: PS 9,5 * 19
Fronts Goodyear EAGLE F1 GS-D3 speed rank 96Y 275/35/19, rear same 245/35/19 (fairly new). Direction is checked and is fine.
Balancing not done, Ive been told to do a couple of hundred km before, so the tires will sit fine on the rims , I thinks its true. I can feel vibrations though after doing more than 160km/h. I don’t think that balancing causes my problem with stability.
Its feels like Im heaving a 500kgm tank full of water at my boot and every time I try to steer the water moves the tale half a second after it should do and 5cm further.
The problem with the ESP (Electronic Stability Program, that was one of the best ever heard GeauxLadyZ, and thank god that this program does predict the future) I can say that is usually due to the change of total radius. My new tires have a bigger step than the old almost slick worn tyres, but Y esp kicks in only at bending around 60-80 and only when NOT pushing. The funny think is that using the old tires the car was bending better (10 to 15 km more on the same bent) . Alignment hasn’t been done yet which is the next think Im gona do, but still I can not see how this can change it that much.
THANKS again and excuse my English
#12
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Alright homey, make sure your lugs are on tight on all 4 corners and make sure there is no gap between where the rims meet the hub.
Im assuming ESP is equal to "ETC" (electronic traction control) here in US, in which case you are saying your getting the "slip light" while driving? The change in radius you have now is the correct circumference in the rear, so this cant be the problem. You went from the wrong tire setup to the right tire setup, remember that.
I also doubt your alignment is so bad that it is causing vibration at high speeds and handling issues as bad as you say.
Perhaps the Hubcentric rings were removed when they took the rear wheels off and not put back on? (in which case wheel may not be bolted on perfectly straight)
Other than these options, start thinking maybe suspension or wheel bearings or something.
Last edited by GeauxLadyZ; 07-06-2009 at 02:00 PM.
#13
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Yes !
the "slip light" comes on between 60-80 at beginning of small turns and I can hear the noise. Vibration is caused by not balanced wheels (i hope). BUT the Hubcentric rings that u r saying and because i took the wheels off and put them back myself i never saw them. Maybe thats the problem. And it has to be something with the wheels because it only changed after the tire swap.
the "slip light" comes on between 60-80 at beginning of small turns and I can hear the noise. Vibration is caused by not balanced wheels (i hope). BUT the Hubcentric rings that u r saying and because i took the wheels off and put them back myself i never saw them. Maybe thats the problem. And it has to be something with the wheels because it only changed after the tire swap.
#15
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Correct.
What is the bore of the aftermarket wheels you put on? (diameter of the one big hole in the middle)
Your Z's stock hub size is (i think) 66.1mm. If your rims have a bigger diameter hole than 66.1 then you should get hubcentric rings. It is possible you put the wheel on not straight w/o these rings.
Your symptoms are that of having a tire that is too small in circumference as compared to stock, but yours are not too small...so you should not be "slipping". (which your not really slipping, if your tire is too small it is still catching the road but your computer is thinking your slipping so it is not allowing you to speed up any faster...it basically levels off/decreases acceleration when it thinks your slipping)
Turn off your ESP and drive around and see if you still feel that vibration/loss of control around the turns. i bet you are mistaking the computer's deceleration for a loss of traction and or vibrations.
What is the bore of the aftermarket wheels you put on? (diameter of the one big hole in the middle)
Your Z's stock hub size is (i think) 66.1mm. If your rims have a bigger diameter hole than 66.1 then you should get hubcentric rings. It is possible you put the wheel on not straight w/o these rings.
Your symptoms are that of having a tire that is too small in circumference as compared to stock, but yours are not too small...so you should not be "slipping". (which your not really slipping, if your tire is too small it is still catching the road but your computer is thinking your slipping so it is not allowing you to speed up any faster...it basically levels off/decreases acceleration when it thinks your slipping)
Turn off your ESP and drive around and see if you still feel that vibration/loss of control around the turns. i bet you are mistaking the computer's deceleration for a loss of traction and or vibrations.
Last edited by GeauxLadyZ; 07-06-2009 at 03:09 PM.
#16
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the handling initially was fine even with the "slicks" so the bore must be ok,the only thing I did was taking off the rear slicks and put on same tire new 10mm wider. Vibrations come from balancing. With new setup im not loosing traction I just get the "water tank effect" (see prev post) when I change direction. Tomorrow I have an appointment for wheel alignment and hopefully this will make my life better.
THANKS
THANKS