painting supplies for stocker rims paint
08-29-2010, 11:41 PM
#1
painting supplies for stocker rims paint
I did think about painting my stock rims black because i hate to get the soaked with brake dust. Better braking power=more brake dust, i guess. But i didn't want to do it because i wanted to keep it stock color.
But this whole Stock Rim Modification Thread really gets me to paint mine lol
Different ppl use different painting supplies so i need your opinions on which ones are better.
1)is etching paint needed?
2)sand, prep paint, primer, color paint, and clear coat?
3)sand, etching, primer, color paint, and clear coat?
4) wet sanding needed after pre paint, color paint and clear coat?
5) Should i use high temp paint? do they have gun metal high temp paint?
6) how many color cans needed for 4wheels paint.
If you have better suggestions then plz tell me
But this whole Stock Rim Modification Thread really gets me to paint mine lol
Different ppl use different painting supplies so i need your opinions on which ones are better.
1)is etching paint needed?
2)sand, prep paint, primer, color paint, and clear coat?
3)sand, etching, primer, color paint, and clear coat?
4) wet sanding needed after pre paint, color paint and clear coat?
5) Should i use high temp paint? do they have gun metal high temp paint?
6) how many color cans needed for 4wheels paint.
If you have better suggestions then plz tell me
Last edited by JDMStanced; 08-29-2010 at 11:44 PM.
08-30-2010, 12:33 AM
#2
Registered User
Ok ive painted a lot of stuff....so heres my suggestion
a good paint job is all in the preparation, so here goes...
1. scuff the hell out of the rim with sandpaper, scuff it up good, do extra work here so the primer will stick. An orbital sander will make your life easy here. clean it good with dish soap, and then scrub it with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure your newly scuffed surface is totally and completely clean.
2. Now make a trip to advance, ppg or your local paint store, or visit www.paintscratch.com. purchase the following paints in LACQUER base. all of them, do not mix bases.
-adhesion promoter. (bulldog works well)
-lacquer based sandable primer, preferably darkest you can get since you are going with black.
-lacquer based midcoat (color coat) black in this case.
-lacquer based clear coat. (we will discuss this in just a second)
-tack rags (a couple of em)
-mineral spirits
-variable sand papers (I like 500-800-1000-2000)
-rubbing compound
-polishing compound (I like mequires ultimate compound for this)
-a electric buffer never hurts (I actually use the drill attachment from plasticx for small jobs like this) The mothers cone works fairly well for rims as well.
-squirt bottle.
2a- lets talk about clear coat options here....I prefer the two part catalyzed clear coat made by spraymax, over a plain clear lacquer. You can get the same results from a plain clear lacquer, but it requires a lot lot more work to acheive. paintscratch.com has the two part catalyzed clear coat.
3. most importantly, before we start doing this. DONT GET IN A HURRY! Take your time, enjoy what you are doing and just go with it. This will take way way more time than you think it will....
4. get all of your equipment together. mix the mineral spirits half and half with distilled water in the squirt bottle. shake it good and often during use.
5. pull out your adhesion promoter and go to town on your scuffed up rims. spray multiple multiple light coats with all of this stuff. sweep from side to side, starting the spray before the object and stopping it after you pass it. make sure you cover it good. I usually get 3-4 coats of this stuff on. Wait about 20 min between coats.
6. let sit for a couple hours till dry to the touch.
7. pull out your tack rags and BLOT the rims with it after the promoter has dried to pick up any loose particles.
8. spray with primer the same way as the promoter EXCEPT, after every coat dries. pull out the spray bottle with the mineral spirits, spray it down and sand with 500 grit sandpaper. Every coat of primer should go in this order: spray primer, wait till dry to the touch, spray with mineral spirit mix, sand smooth, blot dry with towel, blot clean with tack rag. Repeat. continue with this untill you get a nice, smooth primed surface. The smoother the surface is here, the easier this buisness will be later. I sometimes will wet sand the last coat of primer with 1000 grit paper to give it a little extra smoothness.
9. wait a couple of hours for the primer to totally dry out. Blot again with tack rag to remove particles and then do the EXACT same thing that you did with the primer, with the color coat. EXCEPT do not sand the very last coat. spray the last coat on lightly and leave sit overnight. I usually wait around 12 hours for the color coat to dry out before starting the clearing process.
10. Time for clear coat. My favorite part. Now, this process will be identical regardless of the type of paint you chose. The clear lacquer will be much more difficult to obtain the kind of gloss that the catalyzed clear coat will be able to obtain though.
regardless...blot your project with a tack rag again before starting. Then we are back to the same proceedure, only this time, do the process with the 1000 grit paper.
Tack rag, spray clear coat, wait for touch dry, wet sand with MS (1k paper this time), blot dry with towel. repeat.
Now, the more layers you build up with the clear coat, the easier it will be to acheive that perfect orange peel free finish. Build up a ton of layers. Ive been known to hit the double digits in layers with clear coat.
agian DONT sand the last coat. just spray it on and leave it for at least a week to cure.
(how I test for cure, I find an inconspicuous place, I press my nail into the paint. If it dents, the finish is not cured. If it does not dent, you can proceed to the last step....buffing.
final step:
now lets shine that badboy up!!
pull out the 2000 grit paper and wet sand with the MS again. sand sand sand sand sand. be very careful not to burn into the color layer though. The best advice I can give on how to tell when to stop is this: get a flashlight and shine it across the surface. Its much much easier to see the high and low spots this way. Sand those smooth!.
now after you have completed sanding the clear coat. pull out the rubbing compound. If you want to use the power tools at this point, you can, just be very very careful. IF you are a noob to this process, elbow grease is probably your best bet. However you do it, scrub down the surface with the rubbing compound until she starts looking better. scrub scrub. Switch to the polish compound and repeat untill the sucker is a mirror.
They are ready to go now! remount them, just wait about a month before applying your favorite wax!!
a good paint job is all in the preparation, so here goes...
1. scuff the hell out of the rim with sandpaper, scuff it up good, do extra work here so the primer will stick. An orbital sander will make your life easy here. clean it good with dish soap, and then scrub it with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure your newly scuffed surface is totally and completely clean.
2. Now make a trip to advance, ppg or your local paint store, or visit www.paintscratch.com. purchase the following paints in LACQUER base. all of them, do not mix bases.
-adhesion promoter. (bulldog works well)
-lacquer based sandable primer, preferably darkest you can get since you are going with black.
-lacquer based midcoat (color coat) black in this case.
-lacquer based clear coat. (we will discuss this in just a second)
-tack rags (a couple of em)
-mineral spirits
-variable sand papers (I like 500-800-1000-2000)
-rubbing compound
-polishing compound (I like mequires ultimate compound for this)
-a electric buffer never hurts (I actually use the drill attachment from plasticx for small jobs like this) The mothers cone works fairly well for rims as well.
-squirt bottle.
2a- lets talk about clear coat options here....I prefer the two part catalyzed clear coat made by spraymax, over a plain clear lacquer. You can get the same results from a plain clear lacquer, but it requires a lot lot more work to acheive. paintscratch.com has the two part catalyzed clear coat.
3. most importantly, before we start doing this. DONT GET IN A HURRY! Take your time, enjoy what you are doing and just go with it. This will take way way more time than you think it will....
4. get all of your equipment together. mix the mineral spirits half and half with distilled water in the squirt bottle. shake it good and often during use.
5. pull out your adhesion promoter and go to town on your scuffed up rims. spray multiple multiple light coats with all of this stuff. sweep from side to side, starting the spray before the object and stopping it after you pass it. make sure you cover it good. I usually get 3-4 coats of this stuff on. Wait about 20 min between coats.
6. let sit for a couple hours till dry to the touch.
7. pull out your tack rags and BLOT the rims with it after the promoter has dried to pick up any loose particles.
8. spray with primer the same way as the promoter EXCEPT, after every coat dries. pull out the spray bottle with the mineral spirits, spray it down and sand with 500 grit sandpaper. Every coat of primer should go in this order: spray primer, wait till dry to the touch, spray with mineral spirit mix, sand smooth, blot dry with towel, blot clean with tack rag. Repeat. continue with this untill you get a nice, smooth primed surface. The smoother the surface is here, the easier this buisness will be later. I sometimes will wet sand the last coat of primer with 1000 grit paper to give it a little extra smoothness.
9. wait a couple of hours for the primer to totally dry out. Blot again with tack rag to remove particles and then do the EXACT same thing that you did with the primer, with the color coat. EXCEPT do not sand the very last coat. spray the last coat on lightly and leave sit overnight. I usually wait around 12 hours for the color coat to dry out before starting the clearing process.
10. Time for clear coat. My favorite part. Now, this process will be identical regardless of the type of paint you chose. The clear lacquer will be much more difficult to obtain the kind of gloss that the catalyzed clear coat will be able to obtain though.
regardless...blot your project with a tack rag again before starting. Then we are back to the same proceedure, only this time, do the process with the 1000 grit paper.
Tack rag, spray clear coat, wait for touch dry, wet sand with MS (1k paper this time), blot dry with towel. repeat.
Now, the more layers you build up with the clear coat, the easier it will be to acheive that perfect orange peel free finish. Build up a ton of layers. Ive been known to hit the double digits in layers with clear coat.
agian DONT sand the last coat. just spray it on and leave it for at least a week to cure.
(how I test for cure, I find an inconspicuous place, I press my nail into the paint. If it dents, the finish is not cured. If it does not dent, you can proceed to the last step....buffing.
final step:
now lets shine that badboy up!!
pull out the 2000 grit paper and wet sand with the MS again. sand sand sand sand sand. be very careful not to burn into the color layer though. The best advice I can give on how to tell when to stop is this: get a flashlight and shine it across the surface. Its much much easier to see the high and low spots this way. Sand those smooth!.
now after you have completed sanding the clear coat. pull out the rubbing compound. If you want to use the power tools at this point, you can, just be very very careful. IF you are a noob to this process, elbow grease is probably your best bet. However you do it, scrub down the surface with the rubbing compound until she starts looking better. scrub scrub. Switch to the polish compound and repeat untill the sucker is a mirror.
They are ready to go now! remount them, just wait about a month before applying your favorite wax!!
08-30-2010, 12:58 AM
#3
Honestly, when I painted my wheels, I sanded, and just painted, then cleared. Turned out ok to me. Would have liked to get them powdercoated but decided to save money and keep up with trying to do things myself. I bought 4 cans of paint and 4 cans of clear... only ended up using 3 whole cans of each, plus a couple coats out of the last one. Definitely do what Tackett suggests... I was impatient and just did it pretty quick. Didn't really care much about them, but I'll probably go back and do them again. Was more just to see how they'd look
Last edited by dmroberson; 08-30-2010 at 12:59 AM.
08-30-2010, 09:27 AM
#6
wow Tackett. That's like twice longer procedures than i thought. Since i want to get a set of g35 coupe rims or used XXR rims and my rear tires give off, I wasn't planning to spend more than $20 for this. hahah.
When it comes to selling my current wheels, either ppl would like it stock color or painted thoroughly.
If i don't paint these stocks than i might paint the new ones lol
When it comes to selling my current wheels, either ppl would like it stock color or painted thoroughly.
If i don't paint these stocks than i might paint the new ones lol
08-30-2010, 09:47 AM
#7
Registered User
wow Tackett. That's like twice longer procedures than i thought. Since i want to get a set of g35 coupe rims or used XXR rims and my rear tires give off, I wasn't planning to spend more than $20 for this. hahah.
When it comes to selling my current wheels, either ppl would like it stock color or painted thoroughly.
If i don't paint these stocks than i might paint the new ones lol
When it comes to selling my current wheels, either ppl would like it stock color or painted thoroughly.
If i don't paint these stocks than i might paint the new ones lol
If you do it the way I outlined, the paint will last a long time and will be fairly chip resistant. Just make sure you wait until the wheel is totally cured before you drive it around or the centripical force will warp the finish. It takes a couple weeks for lacquer to fully cure.
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08-30-2010, 09:58 AM
#9
Registered User
No, I'm not a professional painter. I wouldn't mind doing them for you if you wanted to ship them to me. I wouldn't charge anything except for materials, because like I said, I'm not a professional painter.
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