Ya doesnt mean it's ok Both my M&H DRs and 555RII's both get stored in the house after november.
When I see the manufacturer state catastrophic failure during cold weather use, i do take heed

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/musta...itionTires.pdf

 

Good catch, I'll be storing them in the basement this winter.

 

i got those continental dws tires they hold the road much better than the oem tires and are better in the rain ive put about 8k on them and still in great condition. im using the stock 18's on 08 z w/ gtm sc. will see how the tires hold up this winter. couldnt ask for any more traction.

 

Only tire that ever impressed me over 500rwhp was the R888 in a 305/35/18. Tried a set of RE11 in 305/30/19 off several recommendations. As I expected, not a chance. The RE11s handle very well, but they are not even in the same ballpark when it comes to putting power to the ground. And due to all the wheel spin, they did not last as long as the R888s for daily use. Back to the R888 I go. I have personally had no issue with the R88 in Chicago, the only time I wont drive is when there is snow ON THE GROUND or lots of salt built up. Of course they hook up terrible in the cold, but that just put them on par with any other tire. Havent had a cracking issue myself, but I will keep that in mind for this winter, about to order some more R888s since my RE11s are gone.

 

I was told that the Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 is a vicious tire for the street that will sustain some serious WHP. This was communicated to me by Z1 Motorsports but they were massively expensive in the 285 and 295 sizes ($350+).

 

I bolded your biggest problem. I italicized the second problem.

 

I'm running r888's and they feel fantastic, but I'm definitely getting a set of nt01r's next.

 

I just noticed that overall tire width of a 285/35/19 RE-11 is 11.4" and a 295/30/19 R888 is 11.7", so almost the same compared to a REO5 at 12.3".

Now I am leaning towards the R888...because I will still be able to run good camber on a 19x10.5 tire with a +25 offset.

Just though I point that out for those who may be on the edge or rubbing/fender rolling.

 

My 305's were rubbing pretty good, but I'd bet a roll would fix that with no issues.

Isn't an issue anymore, in-fact I've got to order some spacers! :O

 

i have no experience with the NT01R, But I am curious what makes you want to move to them?

 

any1 ran kdw's on a 500whp+ boosted z? got a good deal on a set so i picked them up curious how they perform

 

I was planning on running them but locally couldn't get ahold of them in a reasonable amount of time.
I've been in a few track cars and they were all running nt01r's; from the local gear heads they agree with nt01r's being some of the best rubber for straight-line street cars. The compound is pretty similar (from what I've been told) but the r888's have a different tread, more geared towards rain dissipation/track use. Also r888's tend to have a funny wear pattern... And are plenty loud.
In general from what I understand the nt01r's are a bit more like a slick, and seeing as this is a street car that won't be taken to any circuit tracks I want more straight line grip.
In my area we don't get much rain (rarely, although I admit the r888's are sketchy enough in the wet, nt01r's are going to be worse) and it very very rarely ever gets below 50 deg.

 

right on. i will take a look into the NT01R as a possible choice. I need to get something on the way this week. I am sort of scared to try another alternative to the R888, but you know how it is, the relentless persuit of whatever is the best.

 

ah crap! i currently have 19s on the car. i knew that was going to be a pain in the *** when it came to tire shopping days. nt01 doesnt do 19s. its either r888 for now or start shopping wheels. anyone want some 19x9.5 and 19x11 te37SL?

 

id take em if u wanna trade for a HR os giken twin plate + cash lol

 

off topic warning!

its a great clutch, you should use it! my only complaint is that, at least when combined with a Zspd CSC (370z, i think its the same trans/clutch/flywheel setup as the HR?), full disengagement is literally within .5" of effective pedal travel. I have never driven a clutch combo that is fully disengaged with such little fluid displacement. When you push the pedal down, by the time you feel any effort at all, you are already completely disengaged! So while my clutch pedal can travel several inches all the way to the floor, i could literally put a clutch stop 1" under the pedals top travel and be just fine. the only reason its a complaint is because with full engagement happening soooo far up at the top, when sitting at a light with the pedal down before im about to take off, its hard to judge how much further up i have to go until it grabs. so, i actually really do need to install a pedal stop! One thing I do like about it though, is that it makes shifting fast easier when you barely even have to push the clutch.

 

ya im running the zspd csc already had the twin plate in for about 3k miles i know exactly what your talking about lol its a pain sometimes when i wasnt paying attention at stoplights lol.

kinda got forced into building my engine and ended up doing a stroker. I hit up OS giken for a price break and they gave me half off a triple plate (i was worried about the twin slipping with the new set up) so now i got a twin thats almost brand new sitting around XD

 

Looks like some good info in this thread as i need some rear tires soon but at least it dosent get driven in the winter anymore.

 

Currently running Yokohama Advan Sports (295/30/19) and want more traction. Next I will be getting either Yokohama Advan AD08 (295/30/19) or Bridgestone RE-11 (305/30/19)

 

468whp
Nitto nt01r's are great