TPMS question
#1
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I upgraded wheels from 18s to 19s and the diammeter of the wheels is nearly same.
TPMS comes on only when I drive on the freeway.
Light blinks, then goes soild and then disappears.
Light does not come on any other time.
Discount tire reprogrammed the TPMS.
Do I need to reprogram again using the wire shorting method under the passenger side dash?
TPMS comes on only when I drive on the freeway.
Light blinks, then goes soild and then disappears.
Light does not come on any other time.
Discount tire reprogrammed the TPMS.
Do I need to reprogram again using the wire shorting method under the passenger side dash?
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I dont know when the previous owner bought TPMS. I put them on to new wheels recently.
I checked the pressure first and it is ok.
If battery is going bad, will it not happen as soon as the car starts moving?
I checked the pressure first and it is ok.
If battery is going bad, will it not happen as soon as the car starts moving?
#6
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I recently put new wheels on and "new" TPMS sensors with them; drove for a day or so before light came on which I was expecting. I just made apt. at local Nissan dealer and in about 15 min. they recalibrated the new sensors and it's all good (except it costs about $50 at Dealer). Would be worth it though if that keeps happening to you. Good luck with it.
*also, Dealer service guy told me that there are some aftermarket wheels that make it hard to recalibrate the sensors and/or "won't" work correctly due to interference as to wheel design; blocks the proper signal.
*also, Dealer service guy told me that there are some aftermarket wheels that make it hard to recalibrate the sensors and/or "won't" work correctly due to interference as to wheel design; blocks the proper signal.
Last edited by BigBlue; 07-17-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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But the sensors are on the inside of the wheels. Rim design should not interfere because the only thing between the sensor and the car is rubber from the tire...
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I'm not sure where the TPMS sensor signal is recieved, but some sensors are toward outside of wheel (valve stem) compared to other wheels and there can be more wheel between the sensor and where signal is recieved depending on design. Just today a guy on here is selling his burning black Work wheels that he says "are not TPMS compatible". I don't know all the details about some wheels working with tpms and some not; just what I was told.
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I'm not sure where the TPMS sensor signal is recieved, but some sensors are toward outside of wheel (valve stem) compared to other wheels and there can be more wheel between the sensor and where signal is recieved depending on design. Just today a guy on here is selling his burning black Work wheels that he says "are not TPMS compatible". I don't know all the details about some wheels working with tpms and some not; just what I was told.
#12
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Per my TPMS guy here,
Its likely a cracked sensor.
At highway speeds the spinning force on the sensor opens the crack and causes a fault. Once down to slower speeds, the crack is closed up and the sensor functions properly.
If the wheel isn’t 100% compatible, the valve angle may have contributed to the sensor being cracked. If the sensor is touching the wheel barrel after its torque, its likely not a good fitment.
Its likely a cracked sensor.
At highway speeds the spinning force on the sensor opens the crack and causes a fault. Once down to slower speeds, the crack is closed up and the sensor functions properly.
If the wheel isn’t 100% compatible, the valve angle may have contributed to the sensor being cracked. If the sensor is touching the wheel barrel after its torque, its likely not a good fitment.
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Per my TPMS guy here,
Its likely a cracked sensor.
At highway speeds the spinning force on the sensor opens the crack and causes a fault. Once down to slower speeds, the crack is closed up and the sensor functions properly.
If the wheel isn’t 100% compatible, the valve angle may have contributed to the sensor being cracked. If the sensor is touching the wheel barrel after its torque, its likely not a good fitment.
Its likely a cracked sensor.
At highway speeds the spinning force on the sensor opens the crack and causes a fault. Once down to slower speeds, the crack is closed up and the sensor functions properly.
If the wheel isn’t 100% compatible, the valve angle may have contributed to the sensor being cracked. If the sensor is touching the wheel barrel after its torque, its likely not a good fitment.
Last edited by Z-Crazy; 07-19-2013 at 04:49 PM.
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