I am looking to purchase a new set of wheels. I also posted this in the "Wheels&Tires" subforum but haven't seen much going on there, so figured I'd post here.

Wondering if I will rub and need to roll fenders for these given wheel sizes:
19x9.5 +15 wheels with 265/35 tires FRONT
19X10.5 +12 wheels with 285/35 tires REAR
Car has Tein S-Tech springs installed with about a 0.7" front drop and 0.6" rear drop, car was re-aligned after installation and camber is at -2* in the rear.

Thanks!

 

You would be almost perfect with those specs IF you were running 18s. Why do you want a heavier setup?

 

I just like the looks of 19’s, and I would like to get rid of some wheel gap without having to change up the suspension.

 

The fronts may slightly rub near max travel, the rear will rub all the time. Rolling the rear is required

 

Depends on the starting point. If you buy cast wheels (aside from the Enkei Race line...RPF1, NT03, etc), yep, going to pay a pretty hefty weight penalty. But, if one pays attention to the total weight vis a vis the OEM setups and try to get a setup close to it, you won't sacrifice any acceleration or response. Example: It's obvious the Track V.1 with a Michelin PSS is going to be on the bottom of the weight scale at around 41lbs per corner. My LMZ5 (bigger, wider than the Track V.1) weighs in at a measly 42.5lbs per corner. My new LMGT4s total weight per corner (average) will be around 43lbs per corner if I go ahead with the tires I'm thinking of. On top of all that, maximum grip is much higher than OE and response is actually the same or better than OE simply due to the nature/type of tire put on. (Here in CA, I only use Max Perf+)

But given that OE setups usually average in the mid-high 40s (on "skinnies") and 50+lbs/corner for most cast "big wheel" aftermarket setups (by and large the biggest sector of the aftermarket - targeting most concerned with aesthetics), anything below 45lbs is a bonus.

Sorry, this is a misnomer.

If/when you properly size the tires (matching OE diameters), it doesn't matter what size the wheel is. A 26.58" 275/35-19 diameter is essentially the same as an OE 245/45-18 at 26.68".

No effect on wheel gap. Only true way to eliminate it is to lower the car.


^^^ This. May not have a lot of issues other than the occasional speed bump oof at stock height and with near stock wheel offsets but by and large, yeah, likely an interference issue.

275/35-19 on a 10.5" wheel will fit no problem with proper offset wheels.

 

Let's not forget the fact that the track wheels aren't the majority and the stock casts weigh in at about 27 pounds. Stock rear tires are also around 32lbs, my 305/30/19 weigh less than those pigs lol.

 

Exactly. The much vaunted 350Z Nismo with its double stagger has front wheels that are reasonable weight at 20.5lbs but those fat rears (19x10 forged and all that good stuff).... Woof! 29# and with the factory B’stones....53lbs/corner!

Yet, the Z33N handles and accelerates with no real penalty. (But, there was definitely an improvement overall when I dropped 9lbs off each rear wheel. &#128076

 

I don't argue there are weight friendly choices. My point is this-
If you choose wheel Z, 18" and tire Z, 18" and compare to the exact same brand wheel and tire in 19", the 18" setup will be lighter every single time. Who needs more rotating mass? (Sarc)

 

Problem is the thinning population of wide tires in 18" and the difficulty with BBKs etc. As long as you are within a pound or 2 of stock overall there shouldn't be much of a difference.

 

Ran a very close setup to this.. but had +22 front and rear with TE37s and around an inch drop if I recall. Ran same tire size as well.

Fronts were fine, rears rubbed a little. Little bit of camber and rolling the rear fenders fixed it. Also, tires played a small amount in (will this fit).

 

I had to roll the rear arch on my original setup (Tein).

 

Yeah you'll rub when going over bumps or hitting bumpy corners. Not bad, but you'll rub.
I'm running 19x9.5+12 fronts with 255/35 tires and 19x10.5 +12 rears and 275/35 and I rolled both front and rear fenders and took out the top fender liner screw in the front. All good now.