JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

The NVH is not there..........the bushing articulates on that point..its not a drive line bushing being replaced with solid........so it doesn't create any further NVH issues..

Noise/vibration/harshness...
-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Well, I had hell removing the drivers side OEM compression rod bushing tonight off a buddies car....

Dammn thing was so rusted and stuck with corrosion that I had to hack at it for hours with a saw-saw, and hammer and chisel.....

Finally i got the bastardo out:

You can see the dark red/maroon rust all over the inside shaft and top section.

fun times!!


EDIT:
This thread also covers this issue and the op's pics are exactly what i dealt with!! PB blaster for days before really really helps guys:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...wrong-fml.html

-J

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

My alignment guy said i have bad compression arm bushings. It's been only 10 days since i lowered my car lol. Do you need the cylinder shape steel to press out/in the bushings?
Do you have to get the ailgnment done after this mod?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

1. yes, the steel or appropriately sized sockets are needed to press out the old bushing.

2. Yes, ideally you want too......so long as all other bushings are fine,then your alignment should match left to right now. if it doesn't, then you would need adjustable front upper control arms to bring it together..

Also, yes doesn't matter if your lowered for a few days or not.......the oem Nissan bushing isnt all that robust........even at stock height it doesnt take but X amount of miles for wear and tears to become evident.....its a weak link in the front suspension for sure..

-J

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

^^what bushings affect the alignment? I rather have them done at the same time so I dint have to pay for alignment each time they r replaced.
which spec, camber or toe, changes if compression bushings r replaced? paying $55 for front alignment again after couple days of getting alignment would be little bit o waste just to match left n right spec. I doubt replacing to spl would change the alignment so much that it could give uneven wear pattern
Thanks

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^ the compression rod bushing needs to be replaced if its torn, it is the sole culprit for screwing up alignment specs left to right mainly in caster, but affects them all depending on how bad they are..........

if you have torn oem rubber bushings, and have a shop willing to do this....set the car up, get the measurements off the alignment rack, back the car off the rack go around the building then back on the rack and i guarantee it wont be the same......

i recommend replacing them, props to spl for making this even after the 350z is out of production...

-J

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

It seems like my car drifts to right side more than before when going straight. Gotta get them replaced soon.
WHen you bang down the compression arm to let it slide down the stud, do you need to disconnect the other end first, where it's attached by a nut near the hub?
Are there any front or rear bushings that could make the change in camber or toe when they are shot?
I Thank you always for helping me out

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I recommend loosening that ball joint nut nearly all the way, but not completely.......from there once it slides down the stud, then remove it......it helps keep it all lined up while removing/tapping with a rubber mallet if needed...etc....


front:
yes, the translink bushing....search for my diy on that.....will need to be sure its centered. translink inner bushing......

the upper control arms bushings could - but those rarely go out if ever that ive seen, so if u already replaced ur upper arms then ur good.

rear:
its just camber arms and spring bucket.......as long as those are good your fine....knuckle bushings are small and dont move or wear much.....take a long time if at alll......only one to watch is the shock mount one, ie, top of the knuckle bushing.......it may squash off center, but doubtfull it will tear/rip...

upper rear arm bushings stay stout as well

-J

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

Jason, when i was pressing in the spl bushing, it seemed like it wasn't going in straight (hard to press), but i proceeded to press anyways because it dind't look like wasn't going in completely off. Then it started going in straight (easier to press). Did i f** up the bore? I'm getting tired of myself installing parts..i want to quit this labor lol
Another quetsion is, on one side, i was able to press in the bushing by hand almost completely (had to use a press to completely press in). But on the other side, I couldn't even press it by hand 1/3 way. My car is 05 with 42000 miles on it. Do you think i'll be ok? i'm done putting everything back on the car.

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

This was how much i was able to press in by hand.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^ ok did u measure the bore diameter and ensure the press fit diameter that spl calls out in his provided instructions??? the press fit isnt tight at all..i will say that, but if its out there are adhesives and other tricks that can be used.......

it seems as all u need to do is press in the last wee bit and continue..

-J

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

yes i did. IIRC, the side i was able to press by hand had NEARLY same diameter of SPL with the bore size.
The other side's bushing was little bigger than the bore.
I test drove and the handling improved haven't noticed any noise under hard DD driving. I hope the compression arm end doesn't slip out of the bushing

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

well, if its on, then monitor it.......


-J

mw9

iTrader: (51)

got information, have to put these on the list.

exarmyguy

iTrader: (3)

I installed my Spl bushings last night. Luckly I knew a coworker that owned a press, which obviously made life much easier. Installation was easy. I don't own any air tools, so I put the car on stands a couple days before my bushings showed up in the mail. For three nights in a row, I would go under the car and completely soak the under brace bolts/nuts with PB blaster. When it came time to remove them, it was super easy. Lol, I was paranoid I was going to snap off one of the uni-body bolts like in one of the previous posts.




I have a quick question and I apologize if its been answered before. But what is that long tube piece that sticks out of the compression arm (pic below)? Whats its purpose?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

thats the steering stop....

follow its path and it makes contact to lock out your steering at full lock...

review my drifting 101 thread..
Edit: here ya go:

taken from:
https://my350z.com/forum/drift/39963...ing-the-z.html


-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^^ congrats on the install, glad it went easy for ya...

Do the transverse link bushings now.......I see your inner (whiteline p/n W52991) is still needed...

-J

exarmyguy

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Jason for the info on the steering stop! Ya, I would eventually like to replace all oem bushings with whiteline. However, I wouldn't be looking forward in replacing the bushings on the rear subframe. That would be one hell of a job.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Follow my DIY post 12 - its much easier that method....doesnt take long...
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...mp-either.html

I'm actually working on a little press rig that will make it a patty cake! LoL...

-J

exarmyguy

iTrader: (3)

^ Yeah, thats the exact route I'm going to take. But I was talking about the 4 mounting bushings for the subframe itself. Looks like you would have to drop the subframe to get em out and in. Thats going to be some work.