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Compression rod install gone wrong..FML

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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 06:38 PM
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Default Compression rod install gone wrong..FML

hey guys, so i needed to install my new compression rods on my g35 sedan, got the driver side out no problems, installed the new one..went to remove the passenger piece and the font ball joint part came out fine, the rear innermost piece rubber is stuck on the actual bolt. eventually the arm came off but the rubber is still stuck on. any info on how to get it off? i tried bp blaster, a torch, hammer, etc. its showing no signs of movement at all. heres a pic to describe my troubles lol.

heres the rod..bushing torn out


heres the bushing portion stuck on the actual bolt




help me out please! i need to remove this so i can drive lol.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 05:36 AM
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Does it seem/feel like it is glued to the bolt, is that why so hard to get off?

You gonna have to rip that sucker off using pry bars and pliers. Once the inner metal ring comes off the rubber will come with it.

Be careful not to strip your bolt!!
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GeauxLadyZ
Does it seem/feel like it is glued to the bolt, is that why so hard to get off?

You gonna have to rip that sucker off using pry bars and pliers. Once the inner metal ring comes off the rubber will come with it.

Be careful not to strip your bolt!!
yea it does feel like its glued. its not threaded on, just stuck on the top poriton i believe.
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Try a drill and some vice grips, just be careful not to mess up the threads.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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I have the same problem! So how were you ablo to take it out?
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Looks like a job for vice grips. just need to grind some of the rubber off first.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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^ I had this exact problem on a friends car happen! the bolt rust and corrodes and holds the bushing center on there......what i dealt with looked identical to what was posted above.....

First, get the nut installed over the threads to protect from damaging them...
then, get a saw-saw and travel "UP" the bolt with the blade riding along the bolt....get it??



ALSO, occasionally i got a chisel and a hammer and would hit and peel back sections at a time till it loosened up.....

once it loosened, then do what terrasmack mentioned.......occasionally grab it with vise grips and turn and see if it comes free....

This is what mine looked like when done:
https://my350z.com/forum/8849461-post17402.html
Name:  2010-12-20192004.jpg
Views: 1321
Size:  79.5 KB
-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 11, 2011 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Also i wonder if an air hammer with the trimming bit could get a bite on it at and angle? Knock it slightly loose , enough get it moving and off.
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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^ would be worth a shot....

I have since bought this guy in case this happens to me again:
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-sp...saw-91753.html


One of these would be helpful too im sure, due to size:
http://www.harborfreight.com/electri...saw-65766.html


Also, a dremel with basic cut off wheel blades didn't do crap!! was way to hard for it, maybe with reinforced cut off wheel blades, but i doubt it..

-J
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 07:04 PM
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i had the same problem before,
to get the rubber out , just torch it up till its smoking than take a rowel and rub the rubber off, it will come off easy,

than try getting the biggest chanel locks home depot has , heat it up with a torch for about 15 min, than and twist it of using the chanel locks, should come loose ,

make sure you clean the bolt up after you take it off, and use lots of grease to prevent it from seizing again
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:41 PM
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How hot did you get the aluminum control rod in the first picture? It doesn't take much heat to permanently weaken aluminum, and that part is subjected to some heavy loads.
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by winchman
How hot did you get the aluminum control rod in the first picture? It doesn't take much heat to permanently weaken aluminum, and that part is subjected to some heavy loads.
Im thinking he means to remove the arm similar to how the OP shows he did and only heat up this part:


so that should work, or at least be a good option to try!

-J
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:58 AM
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try this:

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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Sorry, but it looked like there is soot and discoloration on the arm around the remains of the bushing, too.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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LOL that is not even half as bad as what I've seen other people have done. But it's very easy to fix. Just use a heat gun. and a razor blade.

Why do people still use fire to melt the bushings? Rubber on fire is extremely cancerous. Breathing in rubber is much worse than inhaling second hand smoke. A hydraulic press is cheap. It's worth it if you do all the bushings at home, and let your friends use it, and then sell it on Craigslist when you're done.
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