1000th Vortech build etc. Looking for the bottlenecks - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 07-09-2016, 09:18 AM   #1
0taku
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Default 1000th Vortech build etc. Looking for the bottlenecks

Questions for the Vortech/Boost gurus on the bottom.

Here's my build thus far:

Vortech V2 Si Trim
928 Super Vortech Rebuild
Billet idler pulleys
GTM tensioner
2.87 928 Pulley
32/28 Cogs
Fluidampr Damper Crank Pulley
Kinetix SSV (with reinforced welding)
NWP 75mm Throttle Body
Tial Q 50mm BOV (2 psi Spring)
CJM Stage S1-S Fuel Return system
Bosch 2200cc Injectors
Aeromotive Inline Fuel Filter (10 micron glass)
Walbro 485 Fuel pump
OEM Revup Oil pump
3in. MAF Tube
Weisco 11:1 Pistons (95.5 stock spec)
K1 H Beam Rods
ACL Rod/Main bearings
ARP L19 Studs
Cometic Head Gasket
Uprev MAF GT
Uprev Tuner
Random 3in. Test pipes
Treadstone 1245 Intercooler
Motordyne TDX 2 Shockwave w/ XYZ pipe.
WB Wideband
AEM Boost gauge
AEM Oil Temp gauge
Glowshift Fuel Pressure Gauge
Mishimoto Radiator with Mishimoto Slim fans
Z1 Master silicon hose set
Nismo Thermostat
Mishimoto Oil cooler
OS Giken Twin Disc Clutch

Last edited by 0taku; 03-01-2017 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:34 AM   #2
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To answer Question #2:

-To maximize boost/boost faster, switch to a 28/34 cog setup
-Yes, a Fluidamper will increase boost/boost faster because it has a bigger diameter than the stock crank pulley and spin the blower faster...an ATI will maximize boost/boost faster even more as its has an even bigger diameter than the fluidamper...limiting factor will be potential belt slip on the 2.87 jackshaft, you may want to get the TIMROD to help with that, and a super tight belt....also be watch your impeller speed and don't overspin it too much...
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Old 07-11-2016, 09:43 AM   #3
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Oh...if you're running uprev, you WILL run out of MAF with the MAF GT...I recommend either a PMAS MAF or a bigger diameter MAF tube...

And don't be surprised if you run out of fuel on E85, even with the 1000cc, for 600whp...superchargers are ridiculously thirsty...
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Oh...if you're running uprev, you WILL run out of MAF with the MAF GT...I recommend either a PMAS MAF or a bigger diameter MAF tube...

And don't be surprised if you run out of fuel on E85, even with the 1000cc, for 600whp...superchargers are ridiculously thirsty...
I haven't had any issues with belt slip yet (knock on wood), but to be practical I would imagine my setup to reach about low 500s at the moment. Rather upgrading the MAF, I'm currently budgeting my build money to save for a Haltech to remove those headaches and future ones.

A lot of my turbo friends are giving me enough beef that I'm running high compression but ... Yeah. Another though was running high injectors for sure since I know that I'll be running my limits, but I'm getting what I can before I convert to the YSi. I'm looking around but struggling to find the TIMROD setup. I'll just have to message oldman350z later about it.
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:49 AM   #5
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I'm always reading up on your builds and have you ran into any other problems with the 2.75 besides the belt slip?

Do you have a mod list? Wondering if you're still using the stock heads. Also what redline you're operating from.

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Old 07-12-2016, 01:07 PM   #6
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I greatly recommend a standalone; its incredible how much better my tune got and how much more stable it was when I went to Infinity, in particular with the larger injectors/twin pump setup I had to go to with E85; there's only so much uprev can do.

But, no I haven't really had any issues directly related the vortech kit; my latest mod list in my 600whp thread is basically the same, except now I'm running E85, Ysi, ATI crank pulley, 2150cc inj, CJM twin pump, and AEM Infinity.

And in all my build threads, I've always had JWT S7R cams, but I only rev to 7000 rpm, which is stock redline for a revup engine.

Quote:
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I haven't had any issues with belt slip yet (knock on wood), but to be practical I would imagine my setup to reach about low 500s at the moment. Rather upgrading the MAF, I'm currently budgeting my build money to save for a Haltech to remove those headaches and future ones.

A lot of my turbo friends are giving me enough beef that I'm running high compression but ... Yeah. Another though was running high injectors for sure since I know that I'll be running my limits, but I'm getting what I can before I convert to the YSi. I'm looking around but struggling to find the TIMROD setup. I'll just have to message oldman350z later about it.
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I'm always reading up on your builds and have you ran into any other problems with the 2.75 besides the belt slip?

Do you have a mod list? Wondering if you're still using the stock heads. Also what redline you're operating from.
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:18 PM   #7
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Good luck on your build, it looks promising! Sub'd.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:37 PM   #8
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If you run into belt slip, I would try a carbinite coating. If I get my car on the road and don't sell it first, I will definitely do this before mounting the vortech bracket to the chassis etc.
http://www.carbiniteracing.com/pulley/pulley.html
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #9
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I have a question in regards to your choice in compression. Why go with the 11.1 compression instead of a lower compression ratio like 8.1, 9 or even stock 10.1? You are gonna be revving really high with those camshafts and producing alot more boost the higher you rev. Is it safe even with the E85 at this high of a compression?


The reason I am asking for your reason is because I may be buying a 11.1 built shortblock in the future round xmas but will plan on staying on pump gas with a large sized meth spray nozzle, 100% methanol injection kit. Thanks.

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Old 07-21-2016, 04:55 AM   #10
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Blowers love high compression and E85. Most big companys that are 1000+whp are running higher compression w/E85.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Blowers love high compression and E85. Most big companys that are 1000+whp are running higher compression w/E85.
I see, thanks for answering my question, Conway.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:01 AM   #12
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No problem
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:31 PM   #13
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Hopefully that little difference past 60k wont be too crazy on the impeller.

If only I could swap to 2.37 and just wastegate the boost....but that doesn't cancel out the faster impeller speed. *sigh*

All the parts came in for the engine build, except K1 Tech decided to give us VQ37 rods so now the build is on hold again.


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Old 08-06-2016, 12:50 AM   #14
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You will be fine stop stressing it!
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:42 AM   #15
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How much timing were you running on your "street tune"? Might want to get it properly tuned before boosting it this time... if you want to tune it yourself, a standalone is much easier and safer than UpRev but either is capable.

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Old 08-06-2016, 09:50 PM   #16
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I spin mine faster than that.

Best way to go is a 34 tooth cog on the back of the Jackshaft.

Bleeding off the Boost is a waste of time and money.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 0taku View Post
Hopefully that little difference past 60k wont be too crazy on the impeller.

If only I could swap to 2.37 and just wastegate the boost....but that doesn't cancel out the faster impeller speed. *sigh*

All the parts came in for the engine build, except K1 Tech decided to give us VQ37 rods so now the build is on hold again.



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Old 08-11-2016, 04:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManZ350 View Post
I spin mine faster than that, over 40,000.....

Best way to go is a 34 tooth cog on the back of the Jackshaft.

Bleeding off the Boost is a waste of time and money.
Wait, you spin yours @ 100k+??

That's pretty intense, I'd be worried my impeller would freak out.


Quote:
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You will be fine stop stressing it!
Thanks, it's just after the first pop I got a bit concerned. It's my first serious build I finally pulled the trigger on since I have a daily driver now.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:28 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0taku View Post
Wait, you spin yours @ 100k+??

That's pretty intense, I'd be worried my impeller would freak out.




Thanks, it's just after the first pop I got a bit concerned. It's my first serious build I finally pulled the trigger on since I have a daily driver now.
Well the thing is there's always going to be SOME belt slip. So the calculations are always going to be higher than what the blower will actually see.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:48 PM   #19
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Everything is nearly complete with the rebuild and I just realized something.

I'm not sure what belt size I should go with now that I have the Fluidampr.

I would imagine since the increase isn't too great, that I could just adjust the tension on my current belt, or should I make the switch to the Gates Fleetrunner belt? If so, what size should I run?

The factors include:

VQ35DE
Fluidampr
2.87 pulley
GTM pulley
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:00 AM   #20
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Use a string and map it out. Then you can figure out the size from there. Pick up some cheap belts from autozone to get the size correct. Then when you get the correct size order a gates HD belt. All others are sh*t. Especially when you start spinning that blower hard. Tighten it down till its tight, then tighten some more. When choosing a belt you want the tensionen maxed all the way down and barely able to get the belt on. Then tighten it from there.
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