Yes, I do go to Central. It's all right; the only college in MO that offers the degree I want. If I could get it somewhere else, I would because the CAD department here pissed me off because they are making me take classes I have already taken at the community college in KC. But oh well. I have my job after school lined up, I just wish I didnt have to take the one extra semester to graduate due to transfers.

 

Balthazar... Congratulations! As for recommendations. First, check out the insurance cost before you buy.

Second. Go to www.kbb.com and find the average selling price over invoice for the model that you want. (Hopefully you don't have a trade to complicate matters.) Next note the range of prices over invoice. This is _the_ number that you need (along with the average invoice price for the model of your choice). You must be willing to walk if you want to get a good price. Once you agree upon the price over invoice have the dealer write this down on a piece of paper and you _keep_ the paper. Double check this piece of paper before you sign. There is nothing wrong with taking along a knowledgable friend or family member.

Third, tell the finance guy as soon as you sit down that you absolutely do not intend to buy undercoating, paint sealer or extended warranty. This will save him a lot of grief and wasted effort.

Third, call you insurance agent with the VIN number.

Fourth, when you finally get stinkin rich. Pay off your house mortgage first. Pay cash for your cars. Respect everybody.

I have purchase many a car and here are the things that I have seen first hand.

First, they take grandma's keys to "evaluate the trade in" and park it in the back lot for _hours_ so grandma has no way to get home and then they put on the high pressure on grandma to sign the contract. Help grandma pick out a second car choice that she is willing to purchase. Go with grandma to the dealer. Talk to the sales manager. Tell them you expect a fair price and that you are ready to buy right now if only you get a fair price and show them the kbb average price over invoice for the area. Stay until the deal is signed.

Second. They agree upon a decent price and when you go to pick it up, the salesman just made a mistake and the price was to low and they need a few more $$$. Just walk out and don't ever go back to that dealer. Warn all of your friends about this dealer.

Third. They agree upon the price, but "accidently" use an old offer when it comes time to sign the papers. So check the numbers.

Fourth. They throw in a "life insurance" charge hidden in the monthly payments even though you declined this offer. When you call them on this, "that salesman is no longer with us."

 

Great info after great info guys! Thanks a ton, seriously!

As for where I live, I live in Affton right now, I work in sunset hills so its a nice short drive (hehehe I predict taking the long way in the near future).

So far, after reviewing this thread and reading at edmunds.com, this is where I think I am at.

I have a trade in so thats icky, I owe a little over $1k more than I have left on the loan. Edmunds TMV for my area for the EXACT car I want is about $1k below sticker.

So I am going to go Friday night (when the nearest dealer is open till 9pm) test drive one, show I'm interested, get a quote on my trade-in. Then probably Sat. I will hit one of the other 3 dealers around (nice that I have 4 to work with), let them know I've been elsewhere. And bottom line I am going to be happy with sticker price if they break me even on my trade-in. I think thats fair since my trade-in has a $10k loan on it but TMV retail for it is $11,500 so they arent going to go broke, there, plus they are making over $2k on me buying a Z.

I am going to shoot low and tell them I want it for $28,000 and broken even on my trade-in. I'm sure I can get someone (even the shady one) to aggree to that.

After I get one place to agree I will go back to the dealership I was most comfortable with and get them to match it, like I said, I will go up to sticker as long as they break me even (and get it in writing that they WILL pay off the loan within 10 days). If they agree outright, even better.

I am going into every dealership with the TMV for the Z I want, the TMV trade-in value for my car, and the TMV retail value for my car.

I called my insurance and interestingly enough going from a '00 Maxima to a '05 Z I will SAVE $120 per 6 months of coverage because I would switch to another company (that oddly enough wouldnt provide a better rate for my current car, lol).

Anything I am missing here?

I WILL walk if they wont do sticker and break me even.
I WONT get any of the extra perks or crap.

So out the door I should LEAVE with $29,200 on the new loan ($29,200 - $10k trade in + $10k to pay off the old loan).

No extra stupid fees or anything like that should be on there correct? Not at sticker price anyway.

Ummm, I will DEFINITELY tell them not to detail it (they detailed my Max and omg they must have used a brillo pad).

Heres another question. If they have to order one in the color I want or trim level I want (seems like almost nobody has a Enth. around here, at least not on their site) will this make it much more unlikely that I will get the deal I am going for?

I can't imagine it would as it makes no difference to them right?

Anyway, thanks again for the GREAT info you guys. I am chomping at the bit (something I need to STOP doing before I walk into the dealership) to get into a Z.

 

Make sure you know what the interest rates are. If they give you what you're asking they may try to make it up on the back end by jacking up you rate.

The rate they give you is usually based on your credit score. A score of 750 or above should get you a rock bottom rate. Anything above 680 shouldn't vary more than 0.25%.

Good luck!

 

I haven't read this entire thread but you are far better off walking in with your financing arranged through a bank or credit union. That way your only negociating price & value of trade in. Once your settle on price you can give the chance to meet or beat the rate you have from your bank.

Ordering a car might influence price abit because the dealer would always rather unload standing inventory.

 

Oh yeah, thats the thing I forgot, finance beforehand.

 

I just used www.annualcreditreport.com and Experian shows a 780, considers me "Good" (one step below "Great"), but for some reason TransUnion seems to think I am poor to very poor (I dont get the way they do it though, I mean it was just under 600 which isnt even halfway down the scale but if you ook at the rankings, they consider that almost the worst it could be, wtf is the deal with that?).

I wonder which is more likely to be used by what company (or do they pull from all three?).

Anyway, before I get financing from another company I am going to make sure all my credit cards have a 0 balance (allready done).

On my Maxima I paid 9.5% so I am just ASSUMING I will not get anything better than that. I figure if I lowball my expectatins then getting something better will be nice, but I am planning for the worst.

 

Bal, try www.lendingtree.com
After you apply there, the banks will compete against each other for your business, and a list will be emailed to you of the several banks that want to give you the car loan, the amount, and the interest rate.
I selected "e-loan" from the list, but that doesnt mean you will or if they will even appear.
Lots of guys I work with have goen this route.
Also, the dealership will try to get you to go thru them, but dont, unless they beat the rate, term, etc etc.
Congrats bro! You will love your Z!
Can I make a recommendation?
First MOD...STILLEN EXHAUST!
Yeah baby!
You wont regret it....the guy who convinced me and two others at work with Z's are like in awe now.

 

If you have to pay 9.5% then don't buy. That's outrageous! I'm not sure what the current rates are but I'd think you could stay at or below 7%. I bought 2 yrs ago & my rate was around 5%. I put over 50% down & my score was 814.If you walk in the door kowing what the rate range is then you'll be much better off. It's extremely important that you negotiate rate once you lock in your price.

 

Yeah 9.5% is on the high side but its really hard if you are 23, don't own a home, etc. etc. I've pretty much resigned myself to the notion it could be UP TO that high, but hopefully less (I still would not be paying any more interest than I do now).

This is double crappy for me because I don't know if I want to stay in MO so buying a house is out of the question for at least a couple years.

Ugh, lots of negotiating to do, the only thing I'm NOT looking forward to!

 

is this the same Balthazar on bimmerforums??

if so whats up man its *****///m3, i loaned you the bmw etk disc awhile back.

if not sorry

 

lol, nope, I'm not rich enough for a BMW (yet).