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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

$1000CND for brakes?

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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ZlleH

I can install the brake pads myself, I've never tried installing rotors.
you'll need an impact wrench to remove the rotors.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 09:30 AM
  #22  
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your dealer is full of ****. plus your brakes being 0-5% and you not even noticing....bul****.....now you know why they say 'AVOID THE STEALERSHIP!'
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 10:09 AM
  #23  
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your brakes will squeel it will sound like metal on metal contact, you will definitly hear it im dead sure that your break/rotors are not at 0% or 5% if your on a budget i'd say take it to a reputable shop if not time for some after market brakes

i drove my honda accords brake until they were totally warped and far from being saved it took 4 months of that squeeling if you haven't heard that noise then you should be fine

i'd stay away from ebay you get what you pay for last thing you want is driving and your brakes failed on you @_@

cya good luck max

Quy
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 02:49 PM
  #24  
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I have just replaced my rotors and pads due to the fact that I track the car and the stock brakes just aren't up to it! I find it hard to believe that you need new rotors - what mileage on your car? Are they damaged in some way? I can tell you where I got my EBC slotted and dimpled rotors in TO - also recomend Hawk HPS pads although with my new rotors I am now trying Akebono ceremic pads - all too new to comment just yet. I'm in TO too so my info is local for you. Could even sell you my used rotors if you are interested - nothing wrong with them - 40,ooo km......
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the offer man, I might take you up on it. I plan on tracking my car next year - think I should invest in better brakes? What's wrong with the stocks?
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 07:10 PM
  #26  
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What wrong with stocks? - My car is a 2003 Performance model. I believe the brakes on later models may be improved so check the specs first. Stocks on my car are fine for regular driving but tracking the car you will put a huge amount more stress on the brakes. If you go to Mosport you might be pushing 190 k into turn 8 and thats where you want the brakes to work! I found that I was getting serious brake fade at that speed there. Nissan said that if I wanted a car for the track I should have bought the Track model - fair enough but the extra cost didn't make sense for the few event I do each year so I am trying to improve what I have.
I changed the pads to Hawk HPS and changed the brake fluid to DOT 4 and while I was at it I painted the calipers with brake caliper paint which is good for 900 degrees. Next time out, I found the brakes working well - no more brake fade - but the paint was scorched on the rears so clearly a severe over-heating problem. At Dunville, which is known to be hard on brakes, I had smoke pouring off them!
After lots of research on this site you will find a lot of good info but also a lot of contradictory info! I think the US cars are different form the Can. cars.
Drilled rotors will run cooler but have a tendancy to crack through the drilled holes. EBC make a rotor which is not drilled through but is dimpled and slotted and they say they will run cooler and won't crack so I am now trying these with Akenono cermaic pads. I have only just fitted them and have to run them in before any aggresive braking so I havent' had a chance to track test them yet. It looks as though the track season has now ended so I won't know how they work until next year.
So depending on what year and model you have you should definetly upgrade for track use.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 09:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pejoda
What wrong with stocks? - My car is a 2003 Performance model. I believe the brakes on later models may be improved so check the specs first. Stocks on my car are fine for regular driving but tracking the car you will put a huge amount more stress on the brakes. If you go to Mosport you might be pushing 190 k into turn 8 and thats where you want the brakes to work! I found that I was getting serious brake fade at that speed there. Nissan said that if I wanted a car for the track I should have bought the Track model - fair enough but the extra cost didn't make sense for the few event I do each year so I am trying to improve what I have.
I changed the pads to Hawk HPS and changed the brake fluid to DOT 4 and while I was at it I painted the calipers with brake caliper paint which is good for 900 degrees. Next time out, I found the brakes working well - no more brake fade - but the paint was scorched on the rears so clearly a severe over-heating problem. At Dunville, which is known to be hard on brakes, I had smoke pouring off them!
After lots of research on this site you will find a lot of good info but also a lot of contradictory info! I think the US cars are different form the Can. cars.
Drilled rotors will run cooler but have a tendancy to crack through the drilled holes. EBC make a rotor which is not drilled through but is dimpled and slotted and they say they will run cooler and won't crack so I am now trying these with Akenono cermaic pads. I have only just fitted them and have to run them in before any aggresive braking so I havent' had a chance to track test them yet. It looks as though the track season has now ended so I won't know how they work until next year.
So depending on what year and model you have you should definetly upgrade for track use.
GOOD info,bro!!Just wondering if the cermaic pads has less brake dust? thanks!!
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 03:48 AM
  #28  
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Stock pads are very dirty/dusty. I found the Hawk HPS pads considerably cleaner with more bite and better feel. They are a lot less money than the stocks. The ceramic pads are also considerably cleaner. I bought them through my dealer, who installed the rotors. However that was a mistake because they cost a lot more but I didn't have a choice because I wanted to use the Hawks but after they put the rotors on they talked me into new pads with the new rotors - next time I'll go else where!
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 07:50 PM
  #29  
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Nevermind what I said about MyNismo, haha. Buying both sets of brakes / rotors for $238 + ship. Nice!
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #30  
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Is this the ones on ebay? If not, where?

Originally Posted by d!abolic
Nevermind what I said about MyNismo, haha. Buying both sets of brakes / rotors for $238 + ship. Nice!
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 12:23 AM
  #31  
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Personally, I would never buy brakes designed to stop my car and protect my life because I was the lowest bidder...
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 07:53 AM
  #32  
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I paid about $300 total for my slotted rotors, SS brake lines and Hawk HPS pads for all 4 corners from another Z owner who never installed them and was selling his car. Then I put them on myself. They are awesome too, so go aftermarket.
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 08:02 AM
  #33  
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After market is the way to go for sure but never skimp on brakes. If anyone questions the cost consider the quotes that I got from reputable shops - no back street deals here! To put Brembos on my Performance model was over $9000 and to go with Stop Tech was over $6000! Would be better to trade the car in for a Track model at that time.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ZlleH
Is this the ones on ebay? If not, where?
MyNismo.com
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:40 AM
  #35  
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i brought my car in a few days ago cause of this squeelin its normal they say its the metal the pad and brakes are made out of, if the squeelin isn't noticable every second your fine thats what they told me
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