SunsetZ

I want to switch over to ATE super Blue racing brake fluid. I have found intructions online for changing out the brake fluid, but the articles makes no mention of cars with ABS. Does that change/complicate anything?

zwindsor

iTrader: (6)

It's imperative that you follow the bleed pattern and instructions as specified by Nissan.

mcclaskz

Agreed, just do what the service manual states. Furtermore, do a search for this topic and you will see many members have discussed the procedure. I think the order went: RL, FR, RR, FL. This was contrary to any other car I have owned. Since the change, I have engaged the ABS several times. If there is any leftover DOT 3 fluid, I have blead it by now.

SunsetZ

Unfortunately I don't have a service manual. I talked to my Nissan dealer about doing it, and they refused saying it might void the warranty and did not want to be involved. Pointing out that the manual specifies DOT 3 approved fluid, and this was DOT 3 approved did not seem to matter to them. Should I trust a race shop to do it?

mcclaskz

If you can, do it yourself. It is very easy. While you are at it, you may as well change your lines to SS. It is a very cheap mod that will help your braking on the track. Honestly it will cost you a few hours in a shop 2 x $55hr= $110 vs. you learning how to do it.

SunsetZ

Who would you recommend getting the SS lines from? I have thought of doing that, and might do the stop tech big brake system someday.

mcclaskz

I got the Stoptech SS lines from Street Sports. ~$160. Very well made and the ss lines are plastic coated. They are the best quality I have seen.

DZeckhausen

Despite what the dealerships often tell you, it is possible to bleed cars with ABS and dynamic stability control systems using traditional bleeding methods.

Without access to specialized Nissan equipment, it's not possible to change the fluid that is trapped in the ABS reservoir. A Nissan tech can hook up a device that cycles the ABS pumps while they pressure bleed the brakes. However, each time you start your car and begin to drive, the ABS goes into a self test mode and activates several solenoids that circulate this fluid. So, if you change your fluid, this tiny amount of trapped, old fluid will soon become mixed with the new fluid. It's not a big deal and is similar to what happens when you change your oil. There's always a small amount of old oil that gets left behind and it simply mixes with the fresh stuff.

I like to use a combination of pressure bleeding and traditional pedal pushing (at the same time) to bleed the brakes. I find this is more effective at ridding the system of any air that may be trapped in the lines or calipers. Pressure bleeding alone is fine for CHANGING the fluid. But it doesn't do a good job of getting air bubbles out. To do that, you need to JOLT the fluid to knock bubbles loose and that can only be accomplished by pressurizing the system (with a foot on the brake pedal) and suddenly cracking open the bleeder screw. Make sure you close the screw before your assistant's foot hits the floor. If you do this right, you almost always end up with a firmer brake pedal than you've ever had. Even the factory is rather sloppy at getting air out of the system.

In order to pressure bleed, you can use a system like the Motive Pressure bleeder from Motive Products. The Nissan would require the 1101 adapter kit to fit your brake fluid reservoir.



Despite what most people will tell you, it doesn't matter what order you bleed the calipers. I've bled literally hundreds of cars' brake systems at the track and in the shop and it has never made one bit of difference which caliper is done before the other. I challenge you to come up with a good explanation as to why it must be done in a particular order. I've certainly done enough experimenting to convince my self that it just doesn't matter.

If you are going to bleed your brakes, it's a good time to swap out your rubber lines for StopTech stainless lines. I do carry these for the 350Z.