What have you done for your Z today?
03-10-2013, 12:00 PM
#4202
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Do you really feel a difference? Or is it the fact that the last oil you had was just old and so putting in new oil in general will make it feel better? I've been debating if I should stop using the oil that the dealership gives my car.
03-10-2013, 02:52 PM
#4208
To add a little more, I believe overall synthetic oils may feel a little rougher in these engines. As someone above me said our HR engines like thicker oils and the Mobile seems to be even thinner than others. The convetional oils may give engine revving much smoother but overall this Amsoil has been great. Everything is much improved over the Mobile. I've heard great things from Amsoil, even that its one of the best. I'll probably stick with it, even after my FI kit on.
Edit: F2CMadMaxx, I don't mind spending $10 extra on something that will better protect an investment. It is just a few dollars more and as they say, when you got the cheese- you can spend it. I am willing to shop around and may check out the Castrol oil as well. Especially if its thicker like you say.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; 03-10-2013 at 03:16 PM.
03-10-2013, 07:10 PM
#4209
I run amsoil everything on my car, and for all the 'boutique oil' = waste of money haters, honestly do some reading online and you will see why AMSOIL is king of oils.
My oil change interval is 12k regular driving and 8k hard driving, using amsoil 0w30,
Amsoil flows better then any oil on the market at low temps and high temps, while maintaining the ideal viscosity for proper engine operation and reduced temperatures/engine wear.
My oil change interval is 12k regular driving and 8k hard driving, using amsoil 0w30,
Amsoil flows better then any oil on the market at low temps and high temps, while maintaining the ideal viscosity for proper engine operation and reduced temperatures/engine wear.
03-10-2013, 07:53 PM
#4210
Don't get me wrong, boutique oils like AMSOIL are very good, but on UOA's they're not any better than a good regular oil like Castrol or Penzoil.
Also, erm, you might want to be wary of the massive marketing with oil like that, lots of 'planted' sites etc.
And, flows better than any other oil, yet maintains the ideal viscosity? It can only mean maintains it's original viscosity. Within say, a 5w30, there is lots of varying CST numbers, eg, a Mobil1 5w30 is thinner than a Castrol 5w30 (in the same class, synthetic etc)
As for Mobil1, yeah, i tried that in my old mustang, a very unfussy engine, got 1000 miles out of it, noisy engine, lifters etc, and really black, switched to *anything* else and all quiet and free running for the duration.
If you can find 5qts of AMSOIL for $40 let me know!
Also, erm, you might want to be wary of the massive marketing with oil like that, lots of 'planted' sites etc.
And, flows better than any other oil, yet maintains the ideal viscosity? It can only mean maintains it's original viscosity. Within say, a 5w30, there is lots of varying CST numbers, eg, a Mobil1 5w30 is thinner than a Castrol 5w30 (in the same class, synthetic etc)
As for Mobil1, yeah, i tried that in my old mustang, a very unfussy engine, got 1000 miles out of it, noisy engine, lifters etc, and really black, switched to *anything* else and all quiet and free running for the duration.
If you can find 5qts of AMSOIL for $40 let me know!
03-10-2013, 08:25 PM
#4211
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I will get the oem LED tails soon-ish. Possibly read leather interior from leatherseats.com to replace my hard oem leather.
Now I have to decide to install my Stillen Roof spoiler or not. It's already painted and ready to go, I just can't decide if I like it or not. It will fix the wiper nozzle.
Also, for the oil discussion, shell rotella t6 ftw.
03-11-2013, 11:10 AM
#4212
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i broke my TWM short shifter.. again..
its 2 pieces, and its basically a plunger w rubber stuffed into a metal cup that is the shifter base.. terrible design.
My pedal wasnt adjsuted right after my build, nor was my shifter plate.. so i was dragging it thru the syncros and haveing to rev match shift anyways..
so we said fk it.. and welded the hell out of it and polished it up..
the result was a properly aligned shifter, a properly adjsuted RJM pedal , and an absolutley soluid shift feel, zero vibration, play or slopiness.
Its like driving a ferrari right now.. i never thought a nissan box could be like this.
oh, and we were nerding out in the garage all day, so we polished everything even though wed never see the parts again.
got it to the shop using this lol:
the twm w the rubber cut off the shaft and inserted back in the socket:
end result.. mind you , this has an extra inch of threading down the shaft... and then we cut an inch off the top as well right at the tape line.. this lets my shifter arm sit farther down vs having a boot sitting way up.. ah the little details.
end result is gangbusters.
its 2 pieces, and its basically a plunger w rubber stuffed into a metal cup that is the shifter base.. terrible design.
My pedal wasnt adjsuted right after my build, nor was my shifter plate.. so i was dragging it thru the syncros and haveing to rev match shift anyways..
so we said fk it.. and welded the hell out of it and polished it up..
the result was a properly aligned shifter, a properly adjsuted RJM pedal , and an absolutley soluid shift feel, zero vibration, play or slopiness.
Its like driving a ferrari right now.. i never thought a nissan box could be like this.
oh, and we were nerding out in the garage all day, so we polished everything even though wed never see the parts again.
got it to the shop using this lol:
the twm w the rubber cut off the shaft and inserted back in the socket:
end result.. mind you , this has an extra inch of threading down the shaft... and then we cut an inch off the top as well right at the tape line.. this lets my shifter arm sit farther down vs having a boot sitting way up.. ah the little details.
end result is gangbusters.
Last edited by bmccann101; 03-11-2013 at 11:11 AM.
03-11-2013, 12:18 PM
#4213
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I know it doesn’t make sense but I installed DIY grounding wires on my 2004 Z roadster and I believe any low speed hesitation / flat spot in acceleration is gone, it seems almost like it shifts better and possibly has slightly more power. I guess it is like washing and waxing your car - they always run better afterwards. I was fully aware I might experience a placebo effect, but it seems real, so I am glad I spent the time and $40.
03-11-2013, 02:54 PM
#4214
Nismo-how long are you going to go w that Amsoil sig series? Says 25k but curious how long others would go on this. I'm using XL (10kmiles) now.
I drove mine to Jacksonville FL (5.5hours) yesterday and about 1hr from home now in Columbia drinking a beer. I'm very proud of my little bugger. She did very well and I think she loves road trips.
I drove mine to Jacksonville FL (5.5hours) yesterday and about 1hr from home now in Columbia drinking a beer. I'm very proud of my little bugger. She did very well and I think she loves road trips.
Updates in May (when the build is final and tuned.)
03-12-2013, 09:53 AM
#4219
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