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Don't run them, unless you must, and if you must those are the ones you want...
I had them one of first when they came out, broke easy but its sturdier now I guess, look kinda cool, but, really prefer cleaner look without them, hood stays where it's at fine at 180mph, just saying
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 02-22-2016 at 09:58 PM.
Dumb question but.... you ARE compressing the springs to remove and install the upper mount, yes?
Yes I am. Sorry that wasn't clear. I was trying to say that I don't have the strength to hand tighten the compressors tight enough to release the tension on the upper mount to remove the top nut.
^
It has a what now in the trunk!?
Had to google that. Had no idea there was a weight in there to help the fairer folk close the trunk. Will be removing mine as soon as I wake her up from hibernation.
^
It has a what now in the trunk!?
Had to google that. Had no idea there was a weight in there to help the fairer folk close the trunk. Will be removing mine as soon as I wake her up from hibernation.
Yep I knew about the weight but I always kept forgetting to remove the POS off the car. I still need to get a new pair of those black spring cup things, but its much better with the weight off.
-_- just one thing after the next this project is exhausting.....
Justin, didn't you just build your motor?
My two-cents, but don't waste that 50 bucks worth of oil on break-in. Suggest you look into a 1.25 gallons of break-in oil and/or necessary friction modifiers (ZDDP) for a smooth ring seating, etc.
You're going to flush the stuff out in a couple of run-time hours anyhow.
I'm also very old school when it comes to synth v. dinosaur oils for break-in. While there's not that much definitive on which is better (meaning there's about a 50-50 split between the two camps and a divisive one at that ), I personally prefer NOT to use good synth for break-in, instead relying on the the old school method of using straight weight conventional oil with additive for break in.
True, it's been almost exactly 30 years since I've done a complete engine BUT some things never change and LUBRICATING a newly built motor is one of them. Lube is your friend.
Do some research on this before you fire it up. You won't regret taking the extra time to consider this advice.
I replaced the triple gauges in my 07 with a set of gauges from an 05 so I can get individual TPM read outs.
This was well documented by patrickoneal in this thread.
I've been a real good daddy lately.
Was able to get an amazing deal with a vendor so put these on order:
RJM closed deck block
RJM lower CNC manifold
GTR upper manifold
RJM fuel rails
Carillo H Beam Rods w/ CARR bolts
CP Pistons 10.5 CR , 96mm , skirt/top coated
Upgraded CP Piston wrist pins
ARP L19 Head Stud bolt kit
ARP Main Stud bolt kit
Tomei 280 Cams
Tomei Valve Spring set & retainers
Ferrea Valves, +1mm oversize
Ferrea Valve Seal kit
Ferrea Valve guide set
ID1700 Injectors
(2) TiAL MV-R 44mm Wastegates, blue
Weapon-R power steering reservoir tank
CSF 'HR' Radiator
OS Giken Triple Plate clutch
(6) HKS Spark Plugs
Driveshaft Shop Pro-level axles
(2) CT4X Comp Turbos
-Billet bearing housing
-TiAL SS turbine housing
-Polish cover
-cermaic coated black turbine housing,
-Blue Anodized wheel needle
These will go along with my TiAL blow off valves, GTM intercooler, motordyne 3" dual exhaust
Which bank did you rob?
Jk, that's some serious pick up!
Finished my rear ARP stud install and got the rear Wilwoods on. Had to shave the mounting ears down a bit on the car to get the Wilwoods to seat properly.
Worked on the oil cooler a bit as well, installed the sandwich plate and started working on the brackets for where the oil cooler will mount.
Picked new shoes up for her. Some may remember these from the Amuse Superleggera widebody 350z that was sold a few months ago.
Looking for advice on polishing the lips. They have a decent bit of water marks it appears. I have no experience regarding lip polishing as my old wheels (Varrstoens) had a clear coat over the whole wheel. Is this a DIY job or no? Tips/pointers are gladly accepted
Now that my other time occupying hobby is away at the body shop, had time to give ol' tried n' true it's first ever machine color correction and wax (no sealer).
Got this for Christmas from my wife (along with a full Chemical Guys kit of buffers, polishes - V36 and V38 - sealants, etc.)
Did the Shiro with it and the bird etched hood of my Volvo. Love it!
Question for the detailers among us... The car has never been painted but I notice that the plastic parts on the car (front & rear bump covers and lower side skirts) seem to have discolored at a different (higher) rate than the metal parts (rest of body). Or maybe - and more likely - I just notice the different coloration now that I'm staring at the car with a more detailed eye (beholding the results of my elbow grease! )
I know that painted plastic has different characteristics than painted metal but I'm curious whether there are different amounts of elastomers mixed into the paint for the plastic parts (for greater elasticity of the paint) and it's these elastomers that cause/contribute to the advanced rate (vis a vis metal parts) of fading?
It's not like I can do anything about it and don't intend to as the car looks as good as a 13 year old car can. Just curious.
As for today, ordered a few more things. Kinetix Camber arms, Swift Springs and LCA bushings from CZP. Should be a pretty good re-work of the suspension along with the D specs.
02-22-2016, 08:02 PM
), I personally prefer NOT to use good synth for break-in, instead relying on the the old school method of using straight weight conventional oil with additive for break in.
