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Saw that. I'm wondering about the Tie Rod End replacement and the Lower Control Arm... ball joint? The one right next to the Tie Rod End. And not the Compression Arm, it's seen in the images.
Saw that. I'm wondering about the Tie Rod End replacement and the Lower Control Arm... ball joint? The one right next to the Tie Rod End. And not the Compression Arm, it's seen in the images.
If you wanna buy individual ball joints you're best buying from conceptzperformance, they sell all the hardware for them and a lot of different ball joints for our arms. Keep in mind the only serviceable ball joints on our cars are the ones for the tie rods and the LCA, the ball joints for the compression arms and upper control arms are not, you have to buy a new arm.
Saw that. I'm wondering about the Tie Rod End replacement and the Lower Control Arm... ball joint? The one right next to the Tie Rod End. And not the Compression Arm, it's seen in the images.
Just ordered parts from CZP with 2nd air shipping to get the Z back and running. I wouldn't mind Z1 but their shipping prices were quite hefty. Ordered these parts in specif if anyone is curious. I saw Megan Racing Roll Ball Caster and was curious to try but heard it raised the spindle arm up higher and I don't know. I thought it may bring me to be rubbing in the front. My tires are very close to rubbing the fenders itself so I thought too risky. I'm just trying to get replacement parts, not performance parts. Ha.
SPD Front Knuckle Lower Control Arm Ball Joint w/ Seat Spacer
Whiteline Compression Rod Bushing
Energy Suspension Lower Control Arm Bushing Set = BLK
SPD Front Outer Tie Rod, LH
SPD Front Outer Tie Rod, RH
Just ordered parts from CZP with 2nd air shipping to get the Z back and running. I wouldn't mind Z1 but their shipping prices were quite hefty. Ordered these parts in specif if anyone is curious. I saw Megan Racing Roll Ball Caster and was curious to try but heard it raised the spindle arm up higher and I don't know. I thought it may bring me to be rubbing in the front. My tires are very close to rubbing the fenders itself so I thought too risky. I'm just trying to get replacement parts, not performance parts. Ha.
SPD Front Knuckle Lower Control Arm Ball Joint w/ Seat Spacer
Whiteline Compression Rod Bushing
Energy Suspension Lower Control Arm Bushing Set = BLK
SPD Front Outer Tie Rod, LH
SPD Front Outer Tie Rod, RH
Nice just remember when changing your OEM lower bushings to the energy bushings you have to grind-off two tabs on your factory shocks so the bushings will fit properly. This video shows what happens if you use the energy suspension bushings yet forget to do this big step...you'll tear the aftermarket bushing to shreds.
Nice just remember when changing your OEM lower bushings to the energy bushings you have to grind-off two tabs on your factory shocks so the bushings will fit properly. This video shows what happens if you use the energy suspension bushings yet forget to do this big step...you'll tear the aftermarket bushing to shreds.
Just saw the video. It was entertaining to watch, guy seem to know his stuff. Although, I do not have factory shocks, I have Megan Racing Track coilovers which I recall not have any tabs. Although, I do thank you for your input. It helps to know potential things or be precautions.
Just saw the video. It was entertaining to watch, guy seem to know his stuff. Although, I do not have factory shocks, I have Megan Racing Track coilovers which I recall not have any tabs. Although, I do thank you for your input. It helps to know potential things or be precautions.
Thanks, things never seem to go as planned with working on cars so I like to be prepared in case Sh*t hits the fan.
Ready for a change, this Wix filter is supposed to be designed for full synthetic oils ($16 bucks better be good). I've used the Polydyn in engine, trans and diff. since the car was first broken in ('07); only used Mobil 1 full synth. in engine ever since.
So I’ve had all the LCA Bushings/Knuckle Ball Joints, Toe Rods replaced. The Compression Arm Bushings hasn’t been replaced yet.
but I’ve noticed a huge dramatic decrease in the metal screeching noise when I brake. Now it seems to only make this noises when I turn hard left. And I hear random thuds noises when turning the wheels in reverse backing out of a parking spot; all coming from the same corner still. And a little bit of a random noise in a straight line, very quiet.
I believe it’s a bad wheel bearing. Oh dear, my car been nothing but a headache lately and a real money pit.
I’ll try torquing my lugs nuts from 80 to 90 to be sure and attempt the wobble test on the wheel bearing in question. I’d hope it this and I shouldn’t have any more noises. I’m almost ready to go to a reputable shop for an inspection and see if there’s anything else that’s going to go out soon. I know my Differential Bushings will be needing to be replaced.
My Z has 119K Miles. Assume everything is factory to be safe.
So I’ve had all the LCA Bushings/Knuckle Ball Joints, Toe Rods replaced. The Compression Arm Bushings hasn’t been replaced yet.
but I’ve noticed a huge dramatic decrease in the metal screeching noise when I brake. Now it seems to only make this noises when I turn hard left. And I hear random thuds noises when turning the wheels in reverse backing out of a parking spot; all coming from the same corner still. And a little bit of a random noise in a straight line, very quiet.
I believe it’s a bad wheel bearing. Oh dear, my car been nothing but a headache lately and a real money pit.
I’ll try torquing my lugs nuts from 80 to 90 to be sure and attempt the wobble test on the wheel bearing in question. I’d hope it this and I shouldn’t have any more noises. I’m almost ready to go to a reputable shop for an inspection and see if there’s anything else that’s going to go out soon. I know my Differential Bushings will be needing to be replaced.
My Z has 119K Miles. Assume everything is factory to be safe.
This may not be the case for you, but the Nissan shop I get my '05 serviced at told me when/if one wheel bearing goes it's probably not much longer before the rest will too. When he heard one of mine going out, I brought it back a few weeks later and got them all changed out to save myself the future headache. As soon as my car went over 115k all sorts of interesting things began happening.
Well, it looks like I have a ways to go. LOL
Taken on January 15, 2016. I now have 10,100 miles on her. And yes I drive the car. Purchased in 2015 with 3,000 miles. That's another story and post.
I’ll try torquing my lugs nuts from 80 to 90 to be sure and attempt the wobble test on the wheel bearing in question.
Zwei, that's not going to make any difference in the wobble test. You can always change out the lug bolts if you think they're stretched. It's a fairly simple procedure to remove them from the hub. Besides the wobble test, if you're AR (like I am) you can use an automotive stethoscope while turning the wheel to listen for abnormal bearing noise, which could indicate wear.
Well, if you haven't done so already I'd STRONGLY suggest you replace your camshaft and crankshaft sensors [with OEM not aftermarket ones]. Having your car mysteriously shut off in the middle of traffic really tends to annoy everyone lined up behind you.
Well, if you haven't done so already I'd STRONGLY suggest you replace your camshaft and crankshaft sensors [with OEM not aftermarket ones]. Having your car mysteriously shut off in the middle of traffic really tends to annoy everyone lined up behind you.
Good to know! I try to adhere to the rule of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," but lately I have been straying from that principle. I have seen all the threads/problems Z owners have been having with those sensors. I figured I would just replace them when they go out, but I may go ahead and replace them if it's only a matter of time...
I am unsure of the outcome as I started ordering and experimenting with the Vibrant parts like yourself. I'm trying to build a modular exhaust that that I can swap midpipe or axle back sections or put the stock muffler back on easily in case of a fixit.
Well it is almost done... My buddy had enough material kicking around to make me a Y pipe as well. Asked him to mimic the Motordyne pipe in case I need him to toss in another muffler or resonator.
Well it is almost done... My buddy had enough material kicking around to make me a Y pipe as well. Asked him to mimic the Motordyne pipe in case I need him to toss in another muffler or resonator.
I finally got most of my hydrographics completed. Easy to learn and quick to do for the most part. Prep work is the key...which I found out after my first few attempts.
