How do you drive your 6MT Z?
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I've had my 350z for about 2 months and last night I had a rude awakening. Because of the high engagement point of the clutch, I have to completely relearn how to drive stick. Accelerating is a major pain in my Z33. Right now, I pull my foot off the clutch really slowly and shift slowly. Every time, I over rev the engine because when my foot is on the accelerator, the clutch is still engaged. I drive smoothly though. I was talking to my friends about our cars and they said I should learn pulling my foot off the clutch faster and accelerating slower, right at the engagement point. I was practicing today and lurching back and forth, stalled a few times and misshifted once. I feel like a newborn at driving stick now. How did you all get used to driving our cars?
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How many miles are on it? High engagement point may mean that the clutch is almost worn out ( plates are thinner and have further to go to meet). I recently replaced mine and it engages relatively soon/low.
Either way, Every stick car is different and with a little time you'll get used to it. May try moving the seat back, if you can, and see if that helps.
Either way, Every stick car is different and with a little time you'll get used to it. May try moving the seat back, if you can, and see if that helps.
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@bheaver, it's at 48k. If I move the seat back anymore, I won't be able to comfortably push the clutch pedal to the floor. Do I need to be pushing it all the way, in the first place?
Last edited by Rex08Z; 08-11-2012 at 12:21 PM.
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I learned to drive MT, and I owned nothing but MT cars and trucks from the early '60s until 2000. I'm seriously out of practice, but I occasionally drive MT cars just for the fun of it. I've found the 350Z and 370Z MTs are relatively easy to drive, much easier than a Mustang or a Corvette.
By far, the best and easiest-to-drive MT cars are made by Porsche.
By far, the best and easiest-to-drive MT cars are made by Porsche.
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Jeez man,you drive many cars in your life?
All manual transmission cars drive a bit different.
Ever drive a column 3 on the tree?Or,a older VW beetle.
All different.Sounds as though your clutch is about to go .
Especially that its engaging so high.If you don't get it fixed,
the term,"getting used to it",won't mean a thing.
All manual transmission cars drive a bit different.
Ever drive a column 3 on the tree?Or,a older VW beetle.
All different.Sounds as though your clutch is about to go .
Especially that its engaging so high.If you don't get it fixed,
the term,"getting used to it",won't mean a thing.
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I learned to drive MT, and I owned nothing but MT cars and trucks from the early '60s until 2000. I'm seriously out of practice, but I occasionally drive MT cars just for the fun of it. I've found the 350Z and 370Z MTs are relatively easy to drive, much easier than a Mustang or a Corvette.
By far, the best and easiest-to-drive MT cars are made by Porsche.
By far, the best and easiest-to-drive MT cars are made by Porsche.
that have not so good MT's(alot has to do with the design of the linkage),than good ones.Among the poor ones I've owned were a Taurus SHO
and a Lotus Europa.I owned a original Mustang 350GT.The linkage was great but the clutch took like 2 feet to press down.You sure could build up your muscles in your left leg.
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The hydraulic connection between the clutch pedal and the clutch release mechanism is self-adjusting, so the release point on the pedal will not change over time. Although as the clutch disk wears you may notice the force needed to push down the pedal may increase. This is because as the disk wears thinner the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate must reach out farther to clamp down on it, this will slightly change the leverage arrangement the spring fingers have with the throw-out bearing. This phenomenon will vary from car to car.
As you have found, the Z is designed to have a very high engagement point. It’s not good or bad, it just is. Everyone who drives my car is a little thrown by it, but soon gets used to it. You don’t need to push the pedal all the way to the floor for each shift. As you get a feel for the engagement point, you will find that you only need to push it a little over half way to fully disengage the clutch. This will help smoothen out your shifting.
My dad used to build all kinds of clutch stops for various cars for this exact reason. When I first got my Z, I thought about getting one, but since I’m not a “drag racer” type of driver, I just developed a feel for the pedal travel. I only push it right to the floor in order to activate the starter lockout switch when I start the engine.
As you have found, the Z is designed to have a very high engagement point. It’s not good or bad, it just is. Everyone who drives my car is a little thrown by it, but soon gets used to it. You don’t need to push the pedal all the way to the floor for each shift. As you get a feel for the engagement point, you will find that you only need to push it a little over half way to fully disengage the clutch. This will help smoothen out your shifting.
My dad used to build all kinds of clutch stops for various cars for this exact reason. When I first got my Z, I thought about getting one, but since I’m not a “drag racer” type of driver, I just developed a feel for the pedal travel. I only push it right to the floor in order to activate the starter lockout switch when I start the engine.
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The hydraulic connection between the clutch pedal and the clutch release mechanism is self-adjusting, so the release point on the pedal will not change over time. Although as the clutch disk wears you may notice the force needed to push down the pedal may increase. This is because as the disk wears thinner the diaphragm spring in the pressure plate must reach out farther to clamp down on it, this will slightly change the leverage arrangement the spring fingers have with the throw-out bearing. This phenomenon will vary from car to car.
As you have found, the Z is designed to have a very high engagement point. It’s not good or bad, it just is. Everyone who drives my car is a little thrown by it, but soon gets used to it. You don’t need to push the pedal all the way to the floor for each shift. As you get a feel for the engagement point, you will find that you only need to push it a little over half way to fully disengage the clutch. This will help smoothen out your shifting.
My dad used to build all kinds of clutch stops for various cars for this exact reason. When I first got my Z, I thought about getting one, but since I’m not a “drag racer” type of driver, I just developed a feel for the pedal travel. I only push it right to the floor in order to activate the starter lockout switch when I start the engine.
As you have found, the Z is designed to have a very high engagement point. It’s not good or bad, it just is. Everyone who drives my car is a little thrown by it, but soon gets used to it. You don’t need to push the pedal all the way to the floor for each shift. As you get a feel for the engagement point, you will find that you only need to push it a little over half way to fully disengage the clutch. This will help smoothen out your shifting.
My dad used to build all kinds of clutch stops for various cars for this exact reason. When I first got my Z, I thought about getting one, but since I’m not a “drag racer” type of driver, I just developed a feel for the pedal travel. I only push it right to the floor in order to activate the starter lockout switch when I start the engine.
I'd like to just get used to how the clutch is, but one thing that bothers me is the clutch is so far in front of the other pedals and takes maneuvering my left foot in mid air just to release and put it back on the dead pedal. I cannot use my heel like with the other pedals at all. Sorry guys, I know, I think too much.
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When I was shopping for a Z, I drove an '03 Base 6MT. I felt the high engagement point and immediately loathed it (in comparison to other manuals I've driven.) I passed on that car and assumed it had a cheap aftermarket clutch. Then I drove an '06 Enthusiast and figured out that the clutch was stock. I got used to it pretty quickly, but it annoyed the life out of me because I'm used to lower engagement points. I felt like I was doing a lot of revving and not a lot of moving.
Point is, with two 5 minute test drives that were two weeks apart, I got used to the engagement point and was shifting smoothly, so I'll have to echo what others are saying and agree that your clutch might be getting worn out.
Point is, with two 5 minute test drives that were two weeks apart, I got used to the engagement point and was shifting smoothly, so I'll have to echo what others are saying and agree that your clutch might be getting worn out.
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Practice , that is all it takes. Some of is can drove a Mt second nature , just like walking.
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I really like how the stock clutch felt, but it's also the first and only MT I've ever driven. Triple disc totally changed where it engages, it starts engaging almost as soon as I get off of the clutch pedal, this is after I adjusted the pedal, before that you couldn't even drive it
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I know I said I'd get used to not pushing in all the way but....I was watching Best Motoring, the Japanese car show, where a Nismo Z was racing a BMW M3, and it showed the driver pushing the clutch all the way in, on a 2007 Z, literally kicking the clutch in mid air and then back to the dead pedal. This leads me to believe it's correct to push the clutch in all the way, and that my clutch might have a problem the way it is. But I brought it to the dealer to be inspected and they said nothing about a bad clutch.
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I too was having problems shifting ... so I took a look at the owners manual to see what Nissan recommends
On section 5 -12 we can see recommended clutch procedure, it reads as follows :
"To change gears, or when up shifting or down shifting fully depress the clutch pedal, shift into the appropriate gear then slowly and smoothly release the clutch. "
I find that shifting at the recommended speeds helps smoothness ...
those speeds are:
from section 5 - 13
"Shown below are suggested vehicle speeds for
shifting into a higher gear. These suggestions
relate to fuel economy and vehicle performance.
Actual up-shift speeds will vary according to
road conditions, the weather and individual driv-
ing habits.
For normal acceleration in low altitude areas
[less than 4,000 ft (1,219 m)]:
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 8 (13)
2nd to 3rd 16 (26)
3rd to 4th 25 (40)
4th to 5th 28 (45)
5th to 6th 33 (53)
For quick acceleration in low altitude areas or in
high altitude areas [over 4,000 ft (1,219 m)]:
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 15 (24)
2nd to 3rd 25 (40)
3rd to 4th 40 (64)
4th to 5th 45 (72)
5th to 6th 50 (80)"
...results in very smooth acceleration.
Hope that helps.
And not fully pressing the pedal before gear change results in grinding.
On section 5 -12 we can see recommended clutch procedure, it reads as follows :
"To change gears, or when up shifting or down shifting fully depress the clutch pedal, shift into the appropriate gear then slowly and smoothly release the clutch. "
I find that shifting at the recommended speeds helps smoothness ...
those speeds are:
from section 5 - 13
"Shown below are suggested vehicle speeds for
shifting into a higher gear. These suggestions
relate to fuel economy and vehicle performance.
Actual up-shift speeds will vary according to
road conditions, the weather and individual driv-
ing habits.
For normal acceleration in low altitude areas
[less than 4,000 ft (1,219 m)]:
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 8 (13)
2nd to 3rd 16 (26)
3rd to 4th 25 (40)
4th to 5th 28 (45)
5th to 6th 33 (53)
For quick acceleration in low altitude areas or in
high altitude areas [over 4,000 ft (1,219 m)]:
Gear change MPH (km/h)
1st to 2nd 15 (24)
2nd to 3rd 25 (40)
3rd to 4th 40 (64)
4th to 5th 45 (72)
5th to 6th 50 (80)"
...results in very smooth acceleration.
Hope that helps.
And not fully pressing the pedal before gear change results in grinding.
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I know I said I'd get used to not pushing in all the way but....I was watching Best Motoring, the Japanese car show, where a Nismo Z was racing a BMW M3, and it showed the driver pushing the clutch all the way in, on a 2007 Z, literally kicking the clutch in mid air and then back to the dead pedal. This leads me to believe it's correct to push the clutch in all the way, and that my clutch might have a problem the way it is. But I brought it to the dealer to be inspected and they said nothing about a bad clutch.
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I agree with depressing the clutch fully to prevent grinding, but Nissan's idea of quick acceleration is 50 mph in 6th gear?!
@Dude1312, You're probably right about the performance clutch, and yes I won't be lazy anymore.
@Dude1312, You're probably right about the performance clutch, and yes I won't be lazy anymore.
Last edited by Rex08Z; 08-11-2012 at 06:51 PM.
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If you dislike the engagement point of the stock clutch pedal so much, get an RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket. Problem solved for only $155.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5585...rformance.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5585...rformance.html
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If you dislike the engagement point of the stock clutch pedal so much, get an RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket. Problem solved for only $155.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5585...rformance.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5585...rformance.html