Basically if I'm at highway speeds or at about 45-50+mph I notice that the tach kind of gets "locked" on or around 3k rpms and I notice a very distinct tone from the exhaust that confirms my suspicion of it sitting at 3k and it's not just the tach being screwy. It's the automatic, so if I press a decent amount more on the throttle it will do it's auto downshift, etc. I also noticed that the downshifting in general seemed to be a little bit more...touchy? I don't know if that's just what happens when you install something like this, never done it before.

I had the (-) battery terminal undone when I installed it, which was about 90min in total, then last night left it undone again overnight, and let the car idle for 10+ min today before going anywhere, and same thing.

The MAF sensor should be fine, I never touched it apart from remove the tube it's in from the stock air box to the new filter. It only plugs in one way from what I could tell so that's how it's plugged in right now.

If it helps, I can also hear more air being sucked in right when it hits that 3k mark, so I don't know if that's just because it's at its max RPM it wants to go to on that gear or what.

Again, this is the first time I've done something like this, and the only other thing done to my car is a flowmaster muffler done by a shop probably 10 months or so ago now. So I don't know if this is just something that's to be expected and I'm just crazy. My only experience with bogging is a Nitro RC car engine needing to be tuned. And no, it's not tuned, I don't think it's worth hundreds of dollars to go get a tune just yet until I have at least 1 or 2 more bolt-ons installed such as a plenum spacer, etc. Also I need to find somewhere to go that's in Northern California lol...

Anyway, thanks for any help or insight you may provide!

 

You have a air leak

 

Are you saying between the MAF Tube and filter? Or MAF Tube and Z Tube to intake manifold?

 

If it just started happening after you installed the intake, thene it is on it somewhere. With car running spray brake cleaner around all the conncetions, you will be able to tell where it is because the sound of the engine will change

 

It did just start happening, got some brake cleaner, and nothing. There's no change in idle on any of the connections (I even checked up where the Z tube connects) so there isn't an air leak.

 

Do idle air reset, throttle body position relearn, and ecu reset

 

Any links on the proper way to do it? I've seen multiple ways to reset the ECU for example and I don't know which way actually works.

 

Its out there somewhere, lists all three....out drinking a beer right now so not looking for it...if i remember when i get home i will link to it

 

Alright, ended up figuring it out, and it also didn't seem to change anything. Again, I'm wondering if it is SUPPOSED to to it? It seems like it's mostly in 4th gear and if I'm in automatic mode and press down hard (not necessarily floor it) it will downshift into 3rd and then it has no problem going over 3k of course. If I am in triptronic mode and in 4th and try to floor it, it VERY slowly goes over it, maybe thinking I'm going to downshift then too?

Also in 2nd and 3rd the tone seems a little bit different than it used to at 2.5-3k.

Also also, it's very smooth revving in park (as per usual) and doesn't have any tone change at those RPMs.

 

Dont use brake cleaner... Use electric CRC parts cleaner if youre gonna clean an electrical components and connectors

 

i meant tubing connections, not electrical