I saw yoh confirmed to someone telling you to keep the oem seats. If you want the aftermarket seats get them!! If they don’t fit right off the bat, which they 90% of the Time will, just make sure you don’t need to
bit a specific mounting bracket for
your seat, and if you do GET IT. But, if they don’t, you can make them! I promise if you put your mind too it and use some YouTube you will get them in their just right, and
its this problem solving and personal struggle that helps you gain experience and get Comfortable working on cars, as well as get a closer bond with your precious z!

 

there is no point in coil overs unless you are going to track the car imho, a good static setup if fine for the occasional autocross or drift

 

Hello!

So would someone clarify something for me?

Would these tires and rims be a good fit for a good flush?

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...x4.5%2C5x114.3

https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...x4.5%2C5x114.3

I added two,

One os the performance tires which is the Federal SS595 255/35ZR18

The other one is All season.

If I'm daily driving, Should I just grab the all-season one? Lastly, Is this a good choice and will this fit without any modifications?
Thanks!

 

Me personally I would do the following

Front 18x9.5 +15 (or low 20s offset) with a 255/40/18 tire

Rear 18x10.5 (or even 9.5) +15 with a 275/40/18 tire

 

Well, I'm asking for this setup because I don't want to do staggered (if staggered is all the same wheel then the other one) unless needed. I plan to do it in the future but just don't want to go through the hassle of having to use spacers or rolling fenders in the back.

Would these wheels be good for a regular setup?

 

You do realize they were staggered from the factory right? If you want your car to look like a skateboard, do the setup you posted

 

Can't really tell if you're trying to be rude or not,

If they're staggered from factory then I'll just do staggered, If not then I'll just make my car a skateboard. No harm in that.

 

Tires are WAY too short. That vendor sounds like they bought excess stock in "too-small-for-Z-cars" tires.

Wheels will fit easily but they won't be flush. Use the tire/wheel calculator: https://my350z.com/forum/tire_rim_calculator.php

Flush requires you move the wheel out 25-30mm. Of course, it's likely you'll need to roll the guards so maybe calculate wheels that bring it out about 20mm.

Oh, and those wheels are boat anchors. But if all you want is the flush look and don't care about weight, go for something like that with lower offset.

 

Mic already told you all you need to know,

 

28lbs wheels are a big oof, I'm having issues understanding what you understand about staggered wheels.
I'll try to state some faits, staggered can't be rotated as such you get the widths and offsets that work for each corner, no spacers or extra BS needed.

 

To be Frank, not much. I did some research and it’s still confusing so I apologize if I’m getting on anyone’s nerves.

The gentlemen said above said he would use
Front 18x9.5 +15 (or low 20s offset) with a 255/40/18 tire

Rear 18x10.5 (or even 9.5) +15 with a 275/40/18 tire.

So I could do let’s say a
18x9.5 +15 on the front.
18x10.5 +15 in the back.

This would be considered a staggered setup, meaning the back tire will be a bit bigger than the front tires so it can grip more. Furthermore I won’t need any spacers or won’t need to roll fenders. This will be flushed and actually look good.

The reason I’m asking is because the wheels I have right now are 17’a and they have a gap at the top so it doesn’t look good at all.

Aside from that, that’s correct right?

 

Staggered simply means different front and rear tire sizes. This is engineered into the Z car's overall suspension design to correct for the possibility of unintended oversteer, particularly with rear drive; so yes, you typically have more grip at the rear by design. You'll hear of people "going square" meaning F&R wheels and tires are equal F&R. This is done because the Z is inherently a plowing pig (understeer from the factory), people will equalize the F&R so as to diminish the understeering attitude by increasing front grip so the front doesn't wash out before the rear.

If that's greek to you (no offense to any Greek people, just an expression ), then best stick with what works.

Take a moment to study the following tire sizes:

Stock 17s
225/50-17 25.86" diameter/height
235/50-17 26.25

Stock 18s
225/45-18 25.97
245/45-18 26.68

Upsized 18s
245/40-18 25.72
or 255/40-18 26.03
275/40-18 26.66

Upsized 19s
255/35-19 26.03
275/35-19 26.58

With the exception of the Rear 17" tire, they are within inconsequential fractions of an inch of one another.

Coincidentally, these are the most common upgraded sizes when opting for wider wheels/tires. IOW, these are the "target diameters" you want to adhere to in order to avoid any significant issues with speedo reading, and traction systems. Don't overthink this. These are the numbers that have worked for Zs since 2002.

Note: Yes, some people decide they want to run lower than stock diameters, e.g. 275/35-18 instead of the recommended size of 275/40-18. That's fine if you're tracking, don't care about speedo error (not that big a deal) AND if you maintain the same size ratio between front and rear tires to keep the VDC system happy. It expects to see a 3% (+/- 0.25%) delta in wheel speeds front to rear else the ECM assumes a tire spinning at a rate higher (outside of the 2.75% t 3.25% range) as tire spin and triggers VDC to take control.

Why bring this whole confusing mess up? Because its what works and has since day one.

I'll say it one more time...
18x9.5 Front (or 9")
18x10.5 Rear (or 10")
+22 to +25 offset for a fit that (most likely) won't require fender rolling and fits the recommended tire sizes, 245/40 (or 255/40)-18 F and 275/40-18 - From experience, once you go to a +15 offset, you'll almost assuredly need to roll the fenders. (Happened to me.... before I had +15s, I ran every width up to 11" with 20+ offsets with no roll required. Put on 9.5 +15 and immediately experienced the speed bump gronks.

Honestly, have NEVER heard a complaint about this setup from a PERFORMANCE standpoint.

S'far as the wheel gap with your 17s, two things help that out. Upgrade to 18s because the 17" is abnormally short to begin with and the recommended 18s are correctly sized for the car. Or lower the car. Or both, takes your choice.

 

Yes

Life's too short, buy the rims and tires

 

So you said if you got an offset of +15 that means you'll need to roll the fenders but what you recommend is +22 to +25.

So let me get this straight, The lower I go the higher the chance of me rolling fenders will be?

I'll do what you recommended,
18x9.5 Front (or 9")
18x10.5 Rear (or 10")
+22 to +25 offset

I plan on getting lowering springs rather than coil overs just because price and just because I don't plan on using it for the track.
Aside from this,

Thank you very much for the information, It's helped a lot in me picking my tires/rims.

 

You're welcome.

Yes, when I went to a lower offset, even on a "narrower" rear wheel than 10.5", it started to rub on bumps. Hence my recommending a 20+ offset to avoid any hassles on fitment. The easy narrative: "The lower the offset, the further outwards your wheel/tires sit with respect to the fender."

Here, read this to get a better understanding of what offset means in the real world: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...t-novices.html

Wasn't sure how many would need this "pictorial primer on offset" when I wrote it but apparently it clears up the concept of offset that rendered diagrams fail to make clear. That's clear from a lot of used wheel ads I see.... "I have no idea of the offset but they fit on my Honda". How about "measure it"? Laff...

 

Hell, I'm still wondering how my setup will look/work but I want meaty tires and I don't like a too flush look so we will have to see how the 19x9.5+25/275/30-19x11+30/305/30 combo looks and feels when the wheels come in lol