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I just came home from my first ever trackday and man oh man did I have a great time! I completely understand how this becomes an addiction and the daily snowballs into a full on racecar.
It was a humbling experience for sure and I realized just how little I know about driving fast let alone on a track. Among the BMWs, Mercs and different "JDM" clientel here were a couple of Type R's that really flew around the track, an Audi RS3 which ate everything in front of it and... a VW wagon that lapped my friend twice in the same session. I'll be the first to admit that's a little embarassing but on the other hand she was pushing the Z as much as she dared in the rain and the VW was driven by a Porsche GT3 Cup driver which only goes to show how much the driver mod really matters.
The track was wet all day and occasionally more like a river when the skies really opened up. Kept the traction control on all day as I didn't want to embarrass myself too much. We had a blast anyway and didn't mind the weather. The only downside was that I didn't really feel like I could push the car like I wanted to and that leads me to some questions for those of you who are more experienced.
I obviously had some traction issues in the wet and there's no one answer to this but how do you guys experience wet driving compared to dry? I had a lot of mid corner understeer in the slower corners and oversteer in the faster ones. Some more happy pedal and the under turned to over and vice versa.
What tyre pressures do you run on the track? I drove on street tires so there's a big difference from R compounds. I ran it at about 30 psi cold.
What kind of suspension settings, do you have any tips for good settings? I ran these today:
Bilstein B16 coils set at 7/10 hard front, 3/10 hard rear.
Hotchkis sway bars front in the middle and rear at the softest setting.
All suspension arms are SPL V3. Queue the poser comments, look at the fool with the baller suspension and no driving skill! Don't worry I won't be offended because it's true haha!
I think I boiled the brake fluid after a hard session when the track was a bit dryer. It hasn't been changed like it should and that is my bad. When coming into the pits the brake pedal got very soft and mushy. It would still bite but much lower. After about 20-25 minutes of cooling down it was all back to normal and felt great for the next 3 sessions. Did I boil the fluid? Either way it's due a change asap.
I had some brake fade about 10 minutes into my sessions because I was running street pads. What would you recommend for track pads? I won't be breaking any lap records any time soon so overkill pads that require insane heat to bite wouldn't suit me any good but, something that can take some abuse and heat?
I got way more questions about seat suggestions and steering wheels and all that, the stock GT leathers aren't doing the job well enough hehe, but that is for another time. If you have any tips for a rookie (other than driving school, yes I know, I'll take some lessons next time around ) feel free to help me have an even better time next trackday! Today, so dirt Not today, less dirt
A racer here likes the Hawk DTC-60 brake pads, it would be a good idea to check out the race threads too, lots of good general info there. Welcome to the track addiction club.
Welcome to the addiction! Don't worry too much about suspension settings yet, with seat time you'll be able to tell what's working and what doesn't and adjust accordingly. Your list does seem like a good place to start.
Your fluid probably did overheat somewhat, you didn't state what fluid you were running, but if it was regular street DOT fluid I'd highly recommend going with a performance fluid next time. Motul RBF 600 is a good place to start, personally I use Castrol SRF because it performs better over time, but it does come at a premium price. You also don't mention if you have base brakes or sport brakes, but in general you can try Hawk HPS or HP+ at the beginning and move up to more expensive options like the DTC series or Carbotech XP series or my favorite PFC race pads.
Good brakes are especially important for a beginner track driver, as most beginners tend to be a lot harder on the brakes than more advanced students, I won't go into full details here, but if you still have brake issues with fresh fluid it might not be the car, it might be you. Most beginners tend to apply too little pressure at the beginning of the brake zone, drag the brakes all the way down the brake zone and not get on them hard until near the turn-in point, when the system is already hot and less effective. That's a good way to overheat the brakes and eat thru pads. Practice hard threshold braking early and lifting off early and your brakes will last a lot longer.
And of course most importantly, nothing replaces experience, so go a few more times and most of the questions you're asking now will become clear on their own.
Racing is fun but I'm not turning my street car into a race car ever. Best to build a street car or race car as they are NOT the same thing lol. I assume you have Brembos? I hear a lot of the 370Z guys like EBC yellow stuff, Endless and Project Mu.
Thanks for all the input already!
I'm on brembos and the fluid that is in there is probably 50% water by now. Jk but its whatever old crap they put in just before I bought the car eh... 5 years ago, yes I know Im sorry!
I already ordered some RBF 600 and a power bleeder last night.
I think I'll order pads and brake lines next. I was looking at the Z1 premium brembo lines and a couple different Hawk pads, HP+, DTC-60s and Carbotech XP10s.
Maybe I should forget about the more expensive race pads for now, im thinking I might not drive well enough to utilize their capabilities. What do you think?
I guess the track events in Sweden are run a lot more lenient than in US. Here every organization I run with mandates the brake fluid is changed within 90 days of the event. I'm a lead tech inspector for the local Audi club and while we've had people try to lie about it, it's quite obvious during track day tech inspection if the fluid is old, and I have turned people away for this, forcing them to get a flush before being allowed on the track.
IMO you should start with a combo street/track pad like the HPS or HP+ and see what the wear is like after an event or two. If they wear out too quickly then move on to something more expensive.
Depends. This one was a very laid back beginner/testing trackday and as long as the cars were either inspected and road legal or had documentation as a registered race car and as long as you carried a fire extinguisher you were allowed on track.
We also have quite rigorous yearly inspections in sweden where they check and test everything, lights, bearings, control arms and bushings, rust, leaks, suspension, brakes, smog, safety equipment and general road worthiness.
But I get your point and understand what you mean.
More serious trackdays have stricter rules and requirements here too.