2008 350Z Tach in a 2005?
09-17-2020, 02:06 PM
#2
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Issue #1 would be odometer error, and some states are very strict about this. Second, while I'm not sure about wiring issues, I suspect it won't be a big issue. But it'll be a bit lame to have a higher redline on the gauge when the engine won't support it. Third, why would you want to swap your gauge pod out in the first place?
09-18-2020, 04:21 AM
#4
Issue #1 would be odometer error, and some states are very strict about this. Second, while I'm not sure about wiring issues, I suspect it won't be a big issue. But it'll be a bit lame to have a higher redline on the gauge when the engine won't support it. Third, why would you want to swap your gauge pod out in the first place?
09-18-2020, 03:13 PM
#6
Hi Deathblow,
What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).
Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer
What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).
Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer
Last edited by icer5160; 09-18-2020 at 03:14 PM.
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dkmura (09-18-2020)
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09-21-2020, 06:19 AM
#8
Hi Deathblow,
What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).
Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer
What's the new theoretical or safe limit on your built engine? The 2006 350Z's indicated redline is at 7K with the gauge maxing out at 8K, thus the cluster faceplate RPM scale didn't change when compared to 2003-2005. However the 2007/2008 with the HR changed the scale by bumping the max to 9K (since redline increased to 7500). What I'm getting at is, you could simply take the OEM faceplate from a 6MT 06 350Z and swap it into your original cluster. This would increase the indicated redline up to 7K compared to the previous 6500 and maintain the proper reading since the scaling doesn't change. This way you wouldn't have to worry about messing with the electronics (re-programming the cluster's stored odometer numbers) or dealing with warning lights coming on depending on the trim level of the vehicle (common ones are SLIP/TCS).
Just an idea. Still better than throwing an aftermarket tach in there.
-Icer
09-21-2020, 06:34 AM
#9
So the max RPM we are going for is 9k with the twin turbo kit but we might back it off to a little over 8k. Just seeing if there was a more OEM look upgrade I could do to have a idea of where i'm shifting over 8k that the current gauge shows. I don't have ITB's and i don't plan on holding the RPM at that range for a long time but at the drag strip some times you might need a few more rpm's in a gear. We still have some tuning to be done so this will all depend on how the powerband looks and if we are caring the power that high.
09-21-2020, 07:27 AM
#11
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
DB - yes, it's possible and they are essentially 100% compatible, plug & play.
*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.
I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).
What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.
I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).
What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
09-21-2020, 09:13 AM
#12
DB - yes, it's possible and they are essentially 100% compatible, plug & play.
*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.
I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).
What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
*my caveat is that I did this myself with a borrowed gauge cluster (hat tip to TCode) and it was plug & play but I do not know if the RPMs read on HR gauge cluster were true to the actual RPMs - I assume they were and I had no reason to not to believe the HR gauge.
I have considered this swap but I have always had better places to spend the $150 and I actually don't like spinning my engine past +/-6k RPMs if I don't have to...yea, your hp will climb but you're losing torque and the inertial forces on the internals climb exponentially with engine speed and I'd rather not put my engine through that if I don't have to(but that's just me).
What DK is saying about odometer fraud should play a factor, so don't toss your original odometer and if you sell the car it would be wise to disclose that you used a second odometer and disclose the true mileage on the car.
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