trtl3

hello to all. i've been looking for help as extensively as possible through friends of friends, facebook groups (the absolute worst) and many more sources and i cant seem to find a solid lead on my issue.

for starters, i own a 2003 350z touring m/t and the engine shot a rod out at 125,000 miles. i have since replaced the motor with an imported (roughly 60k miles) one. i initially had issues with NATS and the security system locked me out but i got a local locksmith to come reprogram the key which worked perfectly. the new motor ran like mint for a while until i finally took it on its first drive when it left me stranded on an exit ramp. throughout the drive, it would randomly die at idle when coming to a stop or downshifting, but had no issues starting back up. after turning around to head back home and park it and look through a list of possible issues it died again and has refused to start ever since.

after getting it towed home the next morning, i come to find out my battery isn't holding a charge so while trying to crank it with a jump from my daily i noticed it was cranking and sputtering as if it was firing but just too much fuel was being sent into the cylinders and the engine was flooding all the way to the plenum and all dumping out of the exhaust. i cant seem to find anyone who has had this issue, most just have small drops of fuel coming out but mine is literally just dumping right out the tailpipe.

first thought was maybe i dont have spark on all cylinders, (even though it should still start up on maybe atleast 2 or 3 cylinders...) so i tested plugs and coil packs, they are working and firing in correct order. Injector(s) stuck open? i changed the whole fuel rail, injectors, and fuel pulsation dampers and it made no difference. i have also changed both camshaft position sensors, i have clean fuel, all fuses in all 3 boxes, all grounds (that i know of). so maybe could there be any loose connections on any ground wires that i may have failed to fully install?

code reader brings up 2 codes:
- P0335 Crankshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
- P0113 Intake air temperature sensor circuit high input

im really hoping someone has experienced this before. i may be leaving some details out but for right now its all i can remember. anything will help thanks

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I know my coworker had an injector fail on his Z, actually hydrlocked the motor with fuel and tossed a rod. Just my thoughts,you may have a faulty injector

trtl3

i've already changed all injectors and my fuel rails.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

It looks like your second code is referring to the MAF sensor. Are you running an aftermarket intake? Do you have any intake air leaks downstream of the MAF sensor? Since an engine swap was done, double check your wiring harness to critical sensors such as the MAF for any signs of damage. Also, why did you have issues with the factory security system from swapping the engine? Did you replace a computer module as well? It should have been plug and play with your original modules/wiring.
-Icer

trtl3

i am running a spectre intake filter but thats all. but how would i check for leaks in the intake? i mean a small vacuum leak shouldn't cause a HUGE problem right? but ill for sure check the wiring again. and secondly, with the security issue, im actually not sure why it did/does that as other people who have done swaps have had it happen to them too. only changed engine still on original harness&ecu. thanks in advance for any help

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Late to the party, but after reading through this entire thread, I have to ask about the crankshaft position sensor. While post #1 indicates you changed out both camshaft position sensors, P0335 indicates a problem with the crankshaft position sensor. Have you tried troubleshooting the crankshaft position sensor which transmits information to the ECM about fuel and spark timing?

Note- I haven't had this problem previously, but if I encountered P0335, this would be one sensor I would immediately address.

trtl3

i ended up replacing it with a new crank sensor from oreilly auto. but the code is still there and it doesn't even seem to turn over or fire at all anymore. i was planning on ordering an oem or hitachi sensor. is there any way i can check the signal/connections before i go throwing money around?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Replace them with either OEM nissan from the dealership or Hitachi ... any other sensor may or may not work and may only last a few thousand miles. Just rebuy them, it wont be the last set of CPS / CSS sensors you buy ... I wanna say I'm on my 4th or 5th set... gotta pay to play