TwiceShy

2004 350z base 6MT. Been struggling to figure out an intermittent crank no start. Would really appreciate some insight.

Bought the car 6 months ago. Ran great for the first 4 or so. About 2 months ago the car would intermittently go into limp mode, sometimes throwing code for ETC actuator sometimes not. At first it was rare enough (maybe once a week) that I would just clear the code and carry on. Occasionally when trying to restart the car, it would crank and not start and throw a code for the key RFID. Eventually started limping almost every day. Cleaned the throttle body and intake system at my shop, has not gone back into limp mode since. About 2 weeks ago the car started stalling. Seemed to happen after coming up to temperature. Clutch in, revs would nosedive and engine immediately dies regardless of throttle input. Car would eventually cool off and be able to restart. Here's my best shot at remembering everything I have tried.

Incident 1
Car ran like normal, came up to temperature and stalled on the street. No codes
+Added gas since fuel level gauge is notoriously inaccurate
=Checked contact on both battery terminals
=Confirmed throttle body is responding to throttle position
=Sprayed starter fluid into intake while cranking
=Banged on fuel pump while cranking
=Confirmed starter motor is engaging flywheel and turning engine
=Removed fuel line from fuel damper, seemed like good flow but did not have gauge at the time
After about 2 hours the car eventually cooled off and started up. Drove it 5 minutes to my shop where it sat for a few days.

Incident 2 pt 1
Idled for 15 minutes to bring up to temp. Did not stall, so took for roadtest. About 10 minutes into drive started to buck and kick in gear, immediately stalled.
=Confirmed NATS light was not solid on. Blinks when key in off and ACC position but no activity while in ON position.
=Did reset (lock, unlock door lock cylinder with key) anyway
As the car cooled it was able to start and idle for a few seconds before dying. Towed back to shop where it sat a few more days.

Incident 2 pt 2
Crank no start when cold. Noted that previous owner had replaced cam and crank sensors with Autozone parts. Stalling at temperature seemed to corroborate the issue being cam/crank sensors.
+Replaced both cam and crank sensors with Autozone parts under their warranty, crank no start
+Removed crank sensor and slightly cleaned flywheel with brake clean, crank no start.
=Inspect and clean MAF sensor
=Confirmed spark
=Confirmed all fuses and relays in IPDM working
=Checked visible grounds. Nothing obviously wrong, left them alone
=Confirmed good fuel pressure between fuel pump and damper, 51psi cranking
Left for next day

Incident 2 pt 3
Car starts first try.
=Confirm fuel pressure while running at 51psi
=Run at idle for 4-5 hours, didn't stall once
+Replace tired looking fuel hose between pump and damper with braided fuel injection hose
=Roadtest for ~15 minutes, seems to be running normally
Huh, maybe it was just the janky old fuel hose. Leave parked overnight.

Incident 3 pt 1
Road test for ~30 mins no issues. Stop for lunch. Start heading home, get about 10 minutes up the road and stall. Crank no start.
=Check ****ing everything I can without tools
=Do ghetto vacuum leak check. Seems to be building and holding vacuum while cranking
Decide to give up and return tomorrow with tools.

Incident 3 pt 1
Crank no start. But we have codes!
-P1212, Injector Control Pressure Not Detected During Crank, thinking this is due to whatever is preventing the engine from starting.
-P1615, NVIS Difference of Key
-U1001, Invalid or Missing Data for Primary ID. Have read that this can be due to low battery. Battery has been cranking a lot at this point, so I believe it is unrelated to the crank/no start condition
=Reseat ECU connector
Crank no start. F***ing fabulous.

At this point, I really don't know what to think. Unless someone knows better, the theory that I will be pursuing is that the RFID in the key has gone bad or otherwise is not being recognized by the immobilizer system. I was not provided with a spare when I bought the car, and I'm not sure the key is an original. What makes me suspect that it is NOT the immobilizer is that the red LED on the dash is not solid on when the key is in the ON position, and that the issue (at least at first) seemed to be related to temperature. I am also not sure when or how often the security system attempts to ID the key. Would it even cause the car to stall WHILE driving? As far as I know, I have two options. Either I tow the car to Nissan for a new key to be programmed ($$$) or I remove the ECU and send it to Revup to have the immobilizer disabled ($$). I'm hoping somebody out there has an idea of what is going on and takes the time to read through this wall of text.

Thanks and Merry Christmas

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Welcome and sorry to hear about your troubles. Certainly sounds like a lot of varied codes have appeared and I'd suggest the dealer is your best bet. They need to assign an experienced tech with a CONSULT III tool to figure it out. You don't mention mileage or service records, but it sounds as though you're lacking clues from the vehicle history. The dealer may be able to pull this service history up and I'd ask for a copy.

Dylan Mines

I was having the same issue with my 2003 vq35, the culprit as I eventually found was a loose timing chain, I couldn’t believe it wasn’t sending a code. I’m not sure how mechanically inclined you may be, or how long you can have the car out of commission for, but I would definitely check out the timing chain, especially with it going into limp mode. Good luck!

CFAUVEL

How did you find the loose chain? Opened up the access panel at the front of the chain cover, on the passenger's side ? Where the tensioner is?