Rust/Oxidation on rear fenders/quarter pannels.
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Rust/Oxidation on rear fenders/quarter pannels.
So a month ago I bought my 2005 350z in silver. I believe I got ripped off because I paid $8000 for it, clean title, 115000 miles, M/T. The reason I think zi got ripped off is because the paint in MEH state. Most noticeable on the rear fender/quarter pannel. It looks like previous owner rolled the fenders in a crappy way without heat which chipped the paint and caused it to start rusting. I dont need it to look absolutely perfect, i just want to protect it. I bought some OEM KY0 touch up paint from z1 but I havent used it. I heard you definitely have to sand the rust off before you paint, but should I take other steps? Most say to use a rust converter before paint. I want to use this one but idk if its good. I hope I dont have to weld on new metal because that would just add on more money that Im going to lose out on if I ever decide to sell lol. Already had to buy new rims and tires because one rim was cracked. Thanks!
Last edited by Mangochango; 12-01-2023 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Forgot to add pics
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Back in the day, before standardized rust protection appeared on most cars (about the same as multi-stage clear coat paint), we used this for prep on body repairs and restorations. Great stuff. I haven't used it in a long time but my body shop still uses it for smaller repairs.
Those poorly rolled fenders are the reason I always say "roll and SEAL" (with silicone). Sealing doesn't prevent a ham handed person doing a kluge, broken paint roll but it protects the inner "pocket" created by rolling from building up any moisture and/or moisture trapping debris.
Last edited by MicVelo; 12-02-2023 at 10:17 AM.
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As an alternative to this^, which is fine, use what has been the best rust removal and prep product on the market for decades. POR-15. You don't need as much as the link provides and they come in smaller containers.
Back in the day, before standardized rust protection appeared on most cars (about the same as multi-stage clear coat paint), we used this for prep on body repairs and restorations. Great stuff. I haven't used it in a long time but my body shop still uses it for smaller repairs.
Those poorly rolled fenders are the reason I always say "roll and SEAL" (with silicone). Sealing doesn't prevent a ham handed person doing a kluge, broken paint roll but it protects the inner "pocket" created by rolling from building up any moisture and/or moisture trapping debris.
Back in the day, before standardized rust protection appeared on most cars (about the same as multi-stage clear coat paint), we used this for prep on body repairs and restorations. Great stuff. I haven't used it in a long time but my body shop still uses it for smaller repairs.
Those poorly rolled fenders are the reason I always say "roll and SEAL" (with silicone). Sealing doesn't prevent a ham handed person doing a kluge, broken paint roll but it protects the inner "pocket" created by rolling from building up any moisture and/or moisture trapping debris.
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