The buckets do have a stamp number on them inside. If you buy them new they are whatever the measurement is out of the package. You dont need to measure them as they are brand new. I would still get a micrometer on there to double check.

In my case i got some used ones from ebay so those should get measured regardless instead of going off the part number. Since they are used they won't be true to size.

For example:
P/N 13231-EY02A lifter bucket stamp 808R. Bucket measurement is 8.08 mm out the package.
That same P/N used may not measure out to 8.08mm since its used. Once you do the equation you just used Z1s valve lifter thickness list to find which one you need.

 

Update 10/1/25

Got everything back on yesterday. I waited to start the car up until today. I wanted to let the RTV on the timing cover and oil pan to cure as much as possible.

She started up. So far no leaks. No more ticking noise!! I will take it for a drive later today and will drive it tomorrow to make sure everything checks out.

I started this last Wednesday. I worked on it everyday but Sunday. Maybe worked on it 8 to 10 hours a day taking breaks here and there.... and A LOT of F bombs. I will say you need patience for this job. I knew this was going to be challenging but it ended up being a bit more difficult than what I expected. Im one to challenge my automotive limits so I decided to go ahead and give it a go. Im not going to lie this job did intimidate me.

With the right tools, space and some wrenching under your belt this job is very possible. A lot of trial and error but I was able to pull it off.

 

Dude! Major congrats! That's huge, I'm also intimidated by a job like this. It must have felt so good firing it up and hearing it purr quiet and clean.

I'm considering purchasing a 2004 Pathfinder 4x4 with a VQ35DE from a close friend. It has a major valve tick on the same exact cylinder (180k mi), the tick has been there since my friend purchased, I was with him during the inspection and test drive. It hasn't gotten any worse or better over the years, engine still runs strong, no smog issues, automatic transmission shifts great. The price is fair considering the condition, but the vehicle needs some mechanical TLC in the form of some suspension bushings, valve covers, timing set + water pump, and aforementioned valve tick fix. The rest of the car is in really good shape, thinking it would make a good utility vehicle. I don't have anything I can use for hauling large items, go camping, off-roading, etc. without worrying about cosmetic damage or getting dirty.

Anyway, major achievement! Upload a short video if you can.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Icer did you end up getting that Pathfinder? Sounds like a good deal. If I was you I would get it. I have a 2000 Tacoma as a utility vehicle and man im glad a have that truck. I use it a lot for camping.

 

Hey Bre,

Thanks for checking in. Regarding the R50 Pathfinder, I have tentatively committed to purchasing it. I want to do a little more in-depth inspection on the engine. These specific VQ35DE equipped R50s have what Nissan calls "Power Valves" inside the intake runners. I believe this was Nissan's version of variable length intake runners (sample pic below), which was a fairly new thing back in the late 90s and early 2000s. Basically, there's a known issue where the secondary throttle plates/butterfly valves have a tendency to lose their screws!. They were not properly loctited from the factory making it possible for screws to vibrate loose and get eaten by the engine (Never a good thing!). It's possible this known issue was remedied by the previous owner, but you can never make assumptions on something like this. Also my buddy confirmed he never checked for this issue. So I have an action plan...
1) Take apart the upper intake and inspect the "power valves" for any missing screws. If none are missing great! Add some red loctite and re-assemble.
2) If screws are found to be missing, use my Teslong Bore Scope to inspect the combustion chambers & valves for signs of damage. If damage is discovered, then I need to rethink the purchase or re-negotiate the price.


Variable Intake runners on R50 Pathfinder VQ35DE intake manifold.


Since my buddy is the seller, he's ok with this arrangement. His current asking price is $3k, which is fair based on current market prices and condition. Again this assumes there's no damaged valves, ring lands, cylinder walls, etc.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

$3k is not bad if everything checks out. Interesting design on those intake manifolds. Are those intake manifolds hard to take off? or are they very similar to the Z DEs?

 

Yep. The intake manifold is actually a bit easier to remove vs. G35/350Z design. It's a clamshell setup, but easier to reach the vacuum lines and such. Should be straight forward, already found a forum user guide. The long term plan is to repeat what you just accomplished. Full timing chain replacement, valve covers + seals, water pump, and valve spring bucket lash fix. I may even replace the valve stem seals if warranted. No blue smoke or anything like that, but might be worth doing while I'm in there.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Icer when you find out which bucket you need let me know. I may have the measurement you need and I can send it to you.

 

@bre240z

Well I took the 2004 Pathy home this past weekend and gave it a quick look over. After spending more time driving the vehicle (put close to 200 mi on it), I began to notice some unusual symptoms/behavior with the transmission. In a nutshell, the 4-speed automatic is slipping under load in 3rd gear, it's also hanging up in 3rd gear when the load/acceleration plateaus (rev hangs beyond 4k RPM). It should shift up into 4th after accelerating to freeway speeds, but it doesn't until you let off the gas sharply. So, after discussing with my buddy, I won't be buying it. Partly because it's not worth the effort to fix, also because my buddy doesn't want to sell it knowing that it has transmission issues (liability concerns, thinks it will damage our friendship).

After listening with my auto stethoscope, I could determine that cylinder #3 has the valve lifter issue. I checked fluids on the transmission, only slight browning, still mostly pink, not burned. I checked while hot, and it looked slightly overfilled, but nothing crazy. This pretty much confirms my fears that there's internal issues with the clutches or solenoid pack/valve body. With 180k, best long term solution would be to replace with a rebuilt unit. Fixing the engine and suspension issues alone would be a large commitment, but dealing with a transmission on it's way out just isn't worth it to me unless the price dropped to <1k. There's a lot of other minor issues that need fixing as well. Looking around the market, I could get a much cleaner Pathy for 4-5k, similar year/spec/mileage.

I still need a utility vehicle, so I'll do some looking around to see what my options are. I would love to have a 2nd or 3rd gen Taco, but they really hold their value.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

@icer5160

Ah man thats a bummer. Sounded like a good deal. Yea unless the price drops I wouldnt mess with it. Thats unless you have the money and time for a project like that. Automatic transmissions are very delicate. Some times a flush and fill will bring them back to life but you wont know for sure.

 

Whew. Nice work, Bre, on tackling such a a huge daunting job!

Not to hijack, but it looks like you two have already done that to a certain extent, lol.

Icer, I was in need of a new truck/utility vehicle. I ran into the same dilemma with all these Taco fanbois thinking they had something amazing and proud of their trucks. I ended up getting a 2012 Frontier back at the end of 2019 before used car prices shot through the roof. I have no complaints! I got the Pro-4x trim and it's been great. The only repair that was needed was some rewiring and a coolant leak since some damn mice chewed through the harness to a knock sensor and ate a small hole in one of the lines which I can't blame the truck for. It has a decent towing capacity and handles light off-roading easily. My only complaint is that the rear leaf springs are weak, but I remedied that with some airbags which I fill up to about 25 PSI when towing. Maybe something to look into if I were in your shoes. Just look at models post-SMOD which is after MY 2010. Unless, you find a manual, then you're good.

 

EDIT: NVM, I googled it. Yikes! Good to know!

Thanks Heel! That's some good feedback. What is "post-SMOD" I haven't heard that term before.

-Icer

 

@bre240z congrats on the fix hows she running after the repair?
I’m your twin oil burning 04 350z MT 137xxx mi have the scary exact same problem went through all the same stuff and test as you before finding this thread down to thinking it’s the first injector on the drivers side after listening around some more I have come to terms it’s in the valve cover I believe it’s the exact same one that went bad on yours but I will have to check the clearances to be sure it’s definitely coming from cylinder 6
this thread has been and is going to be very helpful for this job only thing I’m wondering is how much time I’m going to get out of her after the job since I plan as well to do just the one bucket and timing chain+parts

Thanks AL

 

The car is running great. Engine is nice and quiet. I wondered the same as you. "How much time will i get out of her after the job" Well thats hard to say. I suggest you check lash on all valves on both banks. All the other valves were within spec on my Z and thats how I decided to only replace that one bucket. If id replaced every single one then at that point I probably be doing a complete overhaul on the motor. I was not about to do that unless I had another motor on standby to slap on while I did the job. Plus each bucket is about $25 to $35 depending what size you need. I say if you've stayed on top of your maintenance and the engine is healthy I dont see why you would have any issues after doing the job. If anything you are prolonging its life. This is just my opinion.

Now if you have the funds and the time to shut her down and take your time, then maybe go ahead and replace all buckets and what not while you are in there. As i mentioned before I have multiple spare buckets that im willing to provide anyone that needs one or a few. Keep us posted about what you end up doing. Im here if you need any help or advice doing this job.