Does disconnecting and reconnecting the window switch affect window alignment? I'm trying to fix a leaky driver side window. It leaks at the top. Twice I have set it up perfectly in the garage and tested it by pouring water on it. But after reinstalling the door panel, which requires one to disconnect and reconnect the switch, the window ends up sitting about a millimeter lower, which is enough to cause it to leak.

I am contemplating resetting the motor using the button on the motor, but I'd still have to disconnect and reconnect the switch to reinstall the door panel.

(I've tried various combinations of holding the buttons up and down for extended periods and that does not cure the 1 mm gap problem.)

 

No. Do a relearn procedure with the button on the motor.
It should open a little bit when the door is opened and close tight when the door is shut

 

If you re-positioned the door glass as it bolts to the regulator, then you will need to do a position relearn using the little button through the door skin. Yes, you will need to disconnect the switch module to re-install the door card, but once the programming/relearn is done, further switch disconnects shouldn't change the calibration. Just make sure you have the window rolled down anytime you need to disconnect a switch module and open/close doors. It's very easy to damage the A-pillar molding if the glass doesn't drop down when opening the doors.
-Icer

 

Thank you. It is currently dropping slightly when opening, as designed - it's just not going back up quite far enough (even though it was doing so in the garage before putting the door card back on). I'll do the button reset process. The tip about making sure the glass is down when the switch is disconnected is a very good one.

 

If you put the door card on and the glass isn't dropping far enough or coming back up all the way. There are two factors to consider.
1) The door card glass sweep needs to be cleaned, as it's causing the glass to bind against it (felt stripping at top of door edge).
2) The window glass camber angle is out of adjustment causing excessive pressure against the window sweeps or glass guides (mirror rubber guide channel).

The FSM has a detailed procedure for how to adjust the window's camber angle, you can do this without removing the glass from the door.

Another trick you can try is using some silicone spray in the guide channels, but it's best to make sure the alignment of the glass is correct 1st.

Worst case scenario, the regulator cable has stretched over time, creating slack, this will impact the auto crack/close feature when opening/closing the door. The only fix I'm aware of is to replace the regulator.
-Icer

 

OK, I did the reset procedure and same issue - a small gap at the top, even though the window is dropping/raising slightly as the door is open and closed. This is before putting the card back on. Below are pics of driver side with gap and passenger side with no gap. When I put the glass in, I pulled it up as far as I could before tightening the three bolts. I am thinking about doing the opposite now, and letting the glass sit naturally before tightening the bolts.

I'll look into that camber angle idea.

I also just remembered that a plastic piece that goes into one of the glass channels fell out and I haven't put it back in. Related? See https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...ification.html

 

The track channel guide piece that fell out of the front glass track shouldn't impact the window limits. I think the issue you're experiencing might be because of how you positioned the glass before tightening the bolts. Start with the glass resting on the regulator's seats/brackets, and then make small adjustments from there. When I adjusted my window glass, I primarily focused on moving the glass forward and aft in the door (Left or Right when looking at the bolts). This is important for ensuring good contact with the door frame seal at the B and A pillars to prevent leaks and wind noise. Once that adjustment is done, you may need to hold the hidden "reset" button on the motor to calibrate the travel limitations. My best guess right now is that there's not enough preload or tension on the regulator cable, causing the window to sag after the motor hit's the calibrated closed (rolled up) position. What's the state of your window motors? Are they aftermarket? Original? Rebuilt?

How you do the reset procedure is important. This needs to be done with the door closed, and only the 1st stage of the window switch (manual mode) can be used during the calibration. If you accidentally push to the second stage of the switch (auto mode) during calibration, then you will have to restart the procedure.

Check out this video, FFWD to 6:45 for the reset procedure.

The only other things I can think of to check are making sure your regulator is fully bolted/secured to the inner door panel. Sometimes the bolts/nuts can get loose. If the window motor or regulator are worn out or damaged, you might have sagging issues. Have you pulled out the glass and regulator assembly for inspection before?
Cheers!
-Icer

 

You're right Icer. The three bolts securing the glass to the tracks were not tight enough, allowing movement of the glass. So instead of the glass being pulled all the way up, it was really mostly just sitting on the regulator brackets. With my wife's help, we moved the glass higher and secured the bolts, and did the reset procedure. I have a decent seal now, although I think the rear of the glass is a little too high compared to the front. Maybe that's what you meant by camber. I may adjust that later. Thanks for your help!