my cars a '05 roadster gt, im absolutely in love with it!. im noticing a tear towards the back of the dome on the stiching (SEE PICTURES). first roadster iv owned and im trying to figure out a way to stop it from getting worse. seems like the more i drop the top the bigger it gets, its still pretty well seald no water gets in. i was thinking of stiching it tight with fishing line???? any ideas???

 

August of 2006 - I first identified this exact same problem on the roadster forum - link below, scroll down for the pics which are nearly identical to yours. Back then, many of us were getting our tops replaced under warranty, but many were encountering major dealer denials.

Unfortunately, the factory replacement was the same design as the problem top. So far though, it's been almost 4 years now, and my replacement has held up fine. My car sits in a garage when not driven, though, so the the story may be different for guys who park theirs outside.

To the point of your question - Repair or stitch reinforcement would require top removal for machine stitching (obviously), or stopping it in mid-fold/retract to glue (recommend) and reinforce stitch by hand. Not aware of anyone having done it on this forum, but I think it's definitely worth the try before springing for a whole new top. Left unattended, that seam definitely will eventually separate.

Good Luck.

https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...nt-update.html

 

thats the heat seal tearing, i have the same problem. It gets a little bigger over time, and there is nothing you can do about it. The top will still work fine, and will be waterproof though. Not that big of a deal. Unless it goes all the way across the top. If it stays small id say dont worry about it.

 

I have a nice tear in that spot and another around the corner to the right. I ended up ordering a replacement Haartzcloth top. It should be on in a week or two. I will posting a review and pics once its done.

I had a the stock one patched, but the patch never held. The company I bought from said they have fixed the issues the OEM tops have. 5 year warranty so its hard to beat that.

 

I had the same exact thing happen to my top in the same exact spot, I did a search on the net and found this:

http://www.mcnett.com/Seam-Grip-Seam...pair-P133.aspx

I opened the top just enough that I could clamp that spot and used
the Seam Grip as an adhesive (directions are on the tube) and it seems to be
holding up pretty good.

 

I just bought an 05 with the same problem i had bought vlp to fill it in but i am going to try the seam seal stuff today and let the op know how it works

 

thats some great help, now i have options instead of thinking ima need to buy a new top soon. ill definately give that a try THANKS

 

any chance u have any pictures too see what it looks like?? and maybe copy ur techniqe

 

I can take a pic tonight, the techniqe is easy, all I did was use a small paint brush and put a thin layer of the seam sealer on both sides of the roof were it was seperating. Then according to the instructions you let it cure for 15 mins and clamp it together. So the way I clamped it was I opened the roof just a little bit so the front was about 5 inches about the windshield then I was able to fold the roof in that area and used 5 paperclips to hold it in place and let it dry overnight.

EDIT: Here's a quick pic of the roof after the repair that I took with my phone

 

I replaced the bands on my 04 roadster touring about a month ago. It took me about 2 hours start to finish, but I had all the tools I needed before I started. The elastic bands come as a kit from the dealership for $25. The kit includes 2 elastic straps, 4 double holed brackets and 8 black aluminum rivets. Tools that you will need are the following: pop rivet gun, small cordless drill with a 1/16" and 1/8" drill bit, a 6" by 3" piece of cardboard or flexible plastic, vacuum cleaner with narrow suction attachment, a pair of needle nose pliers, flashlight and a small piece of sandpaper? Borrow all these tools from your neighbor if you do not have them. Begin by parking the car in a place you are comfortable working in for about 2 hours. You will need power only for the vacuum cleaner. Start the project by convertible top halfway up to expose the old rivets that are fastened to the bar. Do one strap at a time. Place the cardboard between the riveted bar and the fabric of the top. The cardboard will act as a shield to protect the the drill bit from poking through the convertible fabric if the drill slips away from the rivet you are drilling out. With the 1/16" in the drill chuck, slowly and carefully bore out the center of the existing rivet that holds the worn strap to the bar. When the center is drilled out, the end of the rivet will remain inside the bar. The front end of the rivet will most likely stay wrapped around the drill bit and has the appearance of a small washer. Remove the washer-shaped piece of the rivet from the drill bit and repeat this process for the second rivet on the elastic strap. At this point, one end of the elastic strap will be free from the bar. Next, reposition the cardboard in the same fashion (between the bar and fabric) to the other end of the strap. Drill out the other two rivets. Note the way the strap is fastened onto the bars by indicating where the seam is. The first strap is then free and clear for removal. At the far end of the bars, there are little plastic plugs. Remove the plugs at each end and use the vacuum cleaner to suck out the nail-ends of the old rivets. If you fail to do this, they will rattle relentlessly when you drive the car. To install the new elastic strap, place your piece of cardboard between the bar and the fabric that you will be starting at. Line up the holes of the new strap with the holes in the bar by inserting the new rivets first through the double-holed metal bracket, through the strap and finally into the bar. The strap should be sandwiched between the bracket and the bar. Carefully insert the nail end of the rivet into the collet of the rivet gun. Release the handle of the rivet gun and allow the nail end of the rivet to lock into it. Carefully squeeze the rivet gun and allow the front of the rivet to spread itself inside the bar and hold the bracket tightly to the strap and bar. Continue to release and squeeze the rivet gun until you hear a snap and the nail end of the rivet breaks off into the rivet gun. Discard the nail end of the rivet into the trash. Repeat this process with the second side of the double-holed washer. Line up the other end of the strap the same way you did with the first. Repeat the process. Do the other side the same way you did the first side in the same procedure. When all rivets are riveted, inspect them all for sharp edges and file them off with a piece of sand paper. Vacuum out rivet ends. Replace the plastic plugs at the ends of the bars. Test operate the convertible top. Return the borrowed tools. Go for a ride!

 

The dealer replaced the elastic straps for the top on my Z. They didn't remove the nail ends of the rivets and this happened to me. Lots of rattling now. So, back to the dealer I go so they can fix it...

Ugh

 

Sounds like what I did

https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...-tutorial.html

I didn't think to use a vacuum to get the rivet nubs out, that's a pretty good idea. I just tapped the bow with a rubber mallet until they fell out. For the rearmost bow, I don't remember any plastic plugs, but there is a small hole they can fall out of near the ends.

 

My 04 had worn two small holes through the corners on each side.

I cut t shirt type cloth and black silicone from autoparts store and
placed small patches wearing surgical gloves.

Touched up the outside with my finger will pressing on the patch.

Then monitored it over time. Found a new spot a couple years later
from a bar rubbing so I made a new patch for it.

Hides the tear or hole completely if you have the black top.

So far my new to me 07 looks fine. Hope I patch it before it wears a hole or
time will tell, maybe nothing is rubbing in this one.