Running speaker wires to doors!!!?!?!
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Running speaker wires to doors!!!?!?!
Ok, how in the hell did you people do it? I'm putting dynaudios in so I really dont want to use factory wiring, and I want to put my xover inside the car. So, how/where did you run wires?
I dont want to break or drill the connector - I remember a thread about that... If this has been discussed, please forward the url, I cant find it.
I dont want to break or drill the connector - I remember a thread about that... If this has been discussed, please forward the url, I cant find it.
#5
this is what I did... I disconneced the electrical assembly by lowering the latch on the harness and pullled the two sides completely out, then drilled away on the honey comb part that is useless...
the following pic is from the inside drivers side
the following pic is from the inside drivers side
#6
alternatives (edit: see pic below for reference):
a) this is the latch that must be pulled all the way down when the door is at a 45 degree angle. then that part pulls away from the door and the other side can be removed too.
b) if you desire an alternative, then route "b" was my other choice. In this case, the wires are 95% concealed. Go through the rubber hose then right where the red diagram arrow goes is a rubber grommet...then the wire goes through there. That would be easy and less destructive.
c) you can try finding metal clips that fit in the harness, then solder the speaker wire to the clips and have a total OEM effect...but YEA RIGHT...good luck on this one!
BUT, Im telling you, the only pro way to do this is to drill through the harness.
subwooer....I hate to bring up old ****, but you were the one guy that nit picked my subwoofer install... "you shoulda run power like this, you shoulda taped in the speakers like this, this would have saved time..." meanwhile everyone else is like "cool, yeah, nice..." So you being the perfectionist, I know you dont what to settle for seing the wire AT ALL. I tried looking at the harness, and there is no way around it and still have the wires be completely hidden. The assembly is way too complex.
If you ignore my advice because you think my idea is too barbarian, then maybe I can offer credibility in saying that its not my idea but its what the pro shop did to nizls car....this shop consistently has some sort of super car hanging around getting a $15k install, so I would say its pretty credible.
a) this is the latch that must be pulled all the way down when the door is at a 45 degree angle. then that part pulls away from the door and the other side can be removed too.
b) if you desire an alternative, then route "b" was my other choice. In this case, the wires are 95% concealed. Go through the rubber hose then right where the red diagram arrow goes is a rubber grommet...then the wire goes through there. That would be easy and less destructive.
c) you can try finding metal clips that fit in the harness, then solder the speaker wire to the clips and have a total OEM effect...but YEA RIGHT...good luck on this one!
BUT, Im telling you, the only pro way to do this is to drill through the harness.
subwooer....I hate to bring up old ****, but you were the one guy that nit picked my subwoofer install... "you shoulda run power like this, you shoulda taped in the speakers like this, this would have saved time..." meanwhile everyone else is like "cool, yeah, nice..." So you being the perfectionist, I know you dont what to settle for seing the wire AT ALL. I tried looking at the harness, and there is no way around it and still have the wires be completely hidden. The assembly is way too complex.
If you ignore my advice because you think my idea is too barbarian, then maybe I can offer credibility in saying that its not my idea but its what the pro shop did to nizls car....this shop consistently has some sort of super car hanging around getting a $15k install, so I would say its pretty credible.
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Sorry if I came across as rude, I just like ot make suggestions os others can learn - sharing of ideas and all.
Anyway, before I read your message here, I finished my install last night.. I ended up cutting through the molex connector that you showed. I found it easier to use precision snips to cut out the honeycomb part then drill - a bit safer this way. For those that havent done it yet, the black part on the connector does come apart - there is a small latch that needs to be gently pryed up. then the sleeve comes off and you can roll back the rubber to run the wires.
I ended up going with Dynaudio 240GT's and they sound very good so far. I hear they need to break in to flourish though.
Anyway, before I read your message here, I finished my install last night.. I ended up cutting through the molex connector that you showed. I found it easier to use precision snips to cut out the honeycomb part then drill - a bit safer this way. For those that havent done it yet, the black part on the connector does come apart - there is a small latch that needs to be gently pryed up. then the sleeve comes off and you can roll back the rubber to run the wires.
I ended up going with Dynaudio 240GT's and they sound very good so far. I hear they need to break in to flourish though.
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YEAH that-a-boy.
Molex huh, is that the name of that f*cking thing? Well, there you have it. I was too impatient to snip away, I just went at it with a drill...came out nice enough.
BTW crossover in the door?...I dont know subwooer, but doesnt that sound like a terrible idea. Unless of course you live where it rains..um...NEVER.
ALso, nizl and I having issues with the crazy high frequencies....do you have the crissovers are -2db like we do? This is the biggest reason that I wanted the crossovers accessible. Actually, I think Ill make a new thread right now on my install...
Molex huh, is that the name of that f*cking thing? Well, there you have it. I was too impatient to snip away, I just went at it with a drill...came out nice enough.
BTW crossover in the door?...I dont know subwooer, but doesnt that sound like a terrible idea. Unless of course you live where it rains..um...NEVER.
ALso, nizl and I having issues with the crazy high frequencies....do you have the crissovers are -2db like we do? This is the biggest reason that I wanted the crossovers accessible. Actually, I think Ill make a new thread right now on my install...
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I've just started playing with it and was going to tune today but it snowed. Apon inital inspecion the tweeter seems fine where it is at 0db, but I will try -2 and +2 to see the effect.
Another thing you might try is to reverser teh phase on the tweeters. I know it sounds dumb, but it will either sound better or worse- give it a try. This method is used in competiion more than you would think. In my last car I got the best imaging by reversing the phase on one tweeter! Go figure.
Another thing you might try is to reverser teh phase on the tweeters. I know it sounds dumb, but it will either sound better or worse- give it a try. This method is used in competiion more than you would think. In my last car I got the best imaging by reversing the phase on one tweeter! Go figure.
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No, sorry for the confusion - try reversing both tweeters, but while you are swapping them (when you have one in and out of phase), turn the unit on and see what it sounds like. Get a test cd, or something that shoots from left to right to see where your imaging is.
Apon initial setup I was able to get a pretty linear and wide imaging band, but my soundstage is too close.. I want it more out and over the dashboard!
Apon initial setup I was able to get a pretty linear and wide imaging band, but my soundstage is too close.. I want it more out and over the dashboard!
#13
Originally posted by Subw00er
but my soundstage is too close.. I want it more out and over the dashboard!
but my soundstage is too close.. I want it more out and over the dashboard!
...which is why I spend way more time and effort in home audio. I love out and over too, but having speakers by your leg sure isnt moving in the right direction!!!
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True! Its a lot easier in the home. I am not sure if I will be able to get a better soundstage because I'm using stock locations for the midrange. I'm going to play with my tweeter positioning to see if I can get my stage a bit deeper. As it stands right now, I'd be happy with the system - the imaging is good - very good with sounds that enter the tweeter's range.
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