UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

I just hooked up my Apexi Rev Speed Meter (RSM) and I am having a little trouble with the RPM output. I initially used the crank wire (#13) but when I powered up the RSM unit, the RPM's kept reading 8000 like the car was WOT at idle. When I reved, the RPM display on the meter dropped.

So I switched to the Injector 1 wire (#23) and now it seems to be ok except for the fact that it constantly only reads about 400-500 rpm even if I rev it up to 2000.

Does anyone have any ideas why this is happening, and also which other wire I should try?

Thanks in advance!

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Also does anyone know what settings I should use for the "Vehicle Speed Pulse?"

I read that the crank is 8pulse but what about the ignition coil #1 wire?

james840a

iTrader: (7)

you could also try the Injector #1 wire. I have my raptor shift light wired to my Injector #1 because it didnt want to work with the coil #1 wire.

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Oops, I worded it incorrectly. I did use Injector #1.

Wire #23 on the ECU pinout, red and black wire.

What other wire can I try? And does anyone have an easier way of testing which wire to use without splicing it in and hacking up all these wires for no reason?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Craftsman sells a digital multimeter for $30 that reads DC frequency. Pick one up and you can find tach wires much easier.

I would think that both the crank signal and the injector signal should work, are you positive you are on the right wire? I know for the crank wire there are at least three brown wires at the ECU.

Vehicle speed pulse has nothing at all to do with engine speed. Vehicle speed is measured in MPH while tach (engine speed) is measured in RPM. The VSS wire is 8 pulses.

To test the wire just strip a little insulation back and connect an aligator clip to the exposed area. You should never have to cut any wires for testing. After you are done testing use a high quality electrical tape, like Scotch 33+ to cover up the exposed area. Don't cheap out on the tape either, spend the $3 for the good roll!

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the tips.

I am sure I used the correct wires because I verified the colors as well as counted the pinout to make sure it matched with the diagram in the service manual.

It's just wierd because both the wires that should work for the RPM input have failed me. Crank showed constant WOT until I reved at which point the Tach on my RSV dropped a little and then Inector #1 always shows an RPM of 400-450 for some reason. I have to rev until about 2-4k just to bring the RPM on my RSV to about 1500 which doesn't make much sense to me.

Guess I am going to have to hunt around

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Can you change the pulse per revolution of the RPM signal in the device? The injector is one pulse per revolution.

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

so you mean you installed one of these

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I can change the pulse on my device. But it seemed like everytime I changed the value, nothing happened. So maybe it's not a pulse input? I will go try and change it to 1 and tell you how it goes!

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Hmm yeah it's wierd, changing the pulse does not affect the RPM at all.

I am going to try hooking it back up to crank and playing with that wire again, something isn't right!

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

No, not one of those. I installed an Apexi Rev Speed Meter (RSM).

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=199&pageNum=1

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I tried crank again and it was no help. Still having problems with inaccurate RPM readings. I did everythign from change the engine cylinder input to changing the pulse and I couldn't get either wire to work with the meter.

Back to hunting for a wire

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

phew .. I was scared for a second

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

You need to look in to what you are changing. The correct parimeter should be the engine cylinder one. The pulse one is most likely for the vehicle speed sensor, which is a totally different wire/signal all togther.

You should be able to hook it up to the injector wire and set it to one cylinder. I believe the crank angle is a six cylinder wire, but it may be more.

I've had my KPtechnologies shift light hooked up to both my crank angle and my injector signal signal and both worked great.

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

I set to 1 cylinder and everything matches up fairly well after 2k rpm. What does it mean under "Conditions" on the Ignition wire in the service manual? I remember it said something about 2000 RPM or 2500 RPM so that's why I figured my meter was misreading under 2000 RPM.

At idle it still shows about 1300-1400 RPM then around 1750RPM on my gauge cluster, the meter reads about 9000, then close to/right at 2000 it finally works properly.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you have it hooked up to an ignition wire, you don't want to use an ignition wire, you want a fuel injector wire.

At low RPMs and at idle each coil files multiple times per revolution, giving you false tach readings. Firing each spark plug multiple times at idle reduces emissions by lowering the amount of unburnt fuel.

The conditions in the ESM tell you how the signal behaves under certain circumstances.

UrbanTacticZ

iTrader: (7)

I just swapped back out to fuel injector #1 and it's showing the same results. Misreading under 2000 and after that it's fine.

VORTECH350

I have got same issue, anyone knows where to hook up all wires correctly?