Constant Battery Draw....HELP!!!!
11-15-2006, 01:13 PM
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Constant Battery Draw....HELP!!!!
I will give you a brief summary of what has being plagueing my life for a period of 6-7 months. I installed my headunit (kenwood ddx-8017) about 9 to 10 months ago without any issues. I then replaced my speakers and amped everything up. I have the pro60's, JL 300/2, JL 500/1, stinger capacitor. To make a long story short, my stock battery first died on me about 6 months ago and I thought I left the lights on in the car, however it kept dying over a period of 5 months to the point where the battery would not jump anymore. I got a new battery (energizer) and it was fine for about 1 month but it started dying too!!!.....so now I know its not the battery, something is drawing power from my battery when the car is off...
just a bit more information, the stinger capacitor had a digital readout but the display stopped working like 2 weeks after I had the setup installed but my installer said that the capacitor is still doing its job....i took it to nissan to get a load test recently and they advised me to check my audio system because the load test only tests the battery and the alternator. and because i have all of that audio equipment in my car, they would have to charge me 100 bucks just to do the test. also, i took it back to the guy that installed the amps/speakers/capacitor and he said that the voltage on the amps are perfect....but i can't see how.......what's goin on??
***** UPDATE EDIT*****
See page two!
just a bit more information, the stinger capacitor had a digital readout but the display stopped working like 2 weeks after I had the setup installed but my installer said that the capacitor is still doing its job....i took it to nissan to get a load test recently and they advised me to check my audio system because the load test only tests the battery and the alternator. and because i have all of that audio equipment in my car, they would have to charge me 100 bucks just to do the test. also, i took it back to the guy that installed the amps/speakers/capacitor and he said that the voltage on the amps are perfect....but i can't see how.......what's goin on??
***** UPDATE EDIT*****
See page two!
Last edited by azula; 03-04-2007 at 04:00 PM.
11-15-2006, 01:15 PM
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Also, my car isn't my daily driver but I still drive it every weekend. If I let the car sit for more then 2 days, I can forget it, the battery is deader than dead. However if I drive it daily, it will start. So I bought a battery charger, so its been starting up for me, but I still need to figure out what is drawing from the battery.....I'm confused.
11-15-2006, 01:44 PM
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Hmm. After I had my stereo installed (just 1 amp) I started having battery issues. Long story short, the OEM battery wasn't keeping it's charge....and that was at only like 10k miles. I got a DieHard and it's been fine since.
However, I do have a recurring issue where the terminal connection gets loose regularly. I think I need to replace the cables cuz they won't stay tight for more than a month. Any chance that's happening to you? Lose or poor connection?
However, I do have a recurring issue where the terminal connection gets loose regularly. I think I need to replace the cables cuz they won't stay tight for more than a month. Any chance that's happening to you? Lose or poor connection?
11-15-2006, 01:55 PM
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I am definitely going to change the battery (again) but I don't want this little nagging draw to eat away at my new battery as well. I want to eliminate the draw then get the new battery.
It could be poor connection but my terminals are pretty tight, I've never had to adjust them. What I did this afternoon was, take it to another audio shop (other than the one that installed it) and I've having them do a complete tear down of my audio system. They are going to disconnect one thing at a time and figure out what is killing my battery. I just need some suggestions to throw their way...
It could be poor connection but my terminals are pretty tight, I've never had to adjust them. What I did this afternoon was, take it to another audio shop (other than the one that installed it) and I've having them do a complete tear down of my audio system. They are going to disconnect one thing at a time and figure out what is killing my battery. I just need some suggestions to throw their way...
11-15-2006, 01:57 PM
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Your problem is unique. 1st of all I can tell you that you're not running enough power to put a strain on your cars electrical system. I run 2 Fosgate amps @ over 1000 watts and don't have any drainage problems with the battery or alternator. Like you, I only drive my car once a week, sometimes once every 2 weeks and have no dying battery problems.
Your capacitor. Theoretically it's only a storage device. Storage for power. The display on it should automatically shut off when it no longer senses a power fluctuation in the system(idle). That's how it's suppose to work.
I don't know if this is the answer, but it might help. Imagine the LCD portion of the display went out but there is something else in the circuitry causing a constant load on the system. 1st, it will suck the juice out of the capacitor. After that runs out, it will begin to suck the juice out of your battery. Why don't you just disconnect the capacitor terminals and let the car sit a few days to a week. If they car's battery doesn't drain, problem solved.
Your capacitor. Theoretically it's only a storage device. Storage for power. The display on it should automatically shut off when it no longer senses a power fluctuation in the system(idle). That's how it's suppose to work.
I don't know if this is the answer, but it might help. Imagine the LCD portion of the display went out but there is something else in the circuitry causing a constant load on the system. 1st, it will suck the juice out of the capacitor. After that runs out, it will begin to suck the juice out of your battery. Why don't you just disconnect the capacitor terminals and let the car sit a few days to a week. If they car's battery doesn't drain, problem solved.
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11-15-2006, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sq40
Check to make sure your amps are on a switched power source and are not staying on all of the time.
You can have your battery tested at any autoparts store.
If you do need a battery, check out SVR's Batteries, Much nicer than Optimas.
You can have your battery tested at any autoparts store.
If you do need a battery, check out SVR's Batteries, Much nicer than Optimas.
the JL amps have a light to let you know if they are on right? I checked them after I turned the car off and the light wasn't on....
I also have neons in the trunk and fans cooling my amps but all of that shuts off when the car is off. also, the neons blew a fuse due to constant jumping a few months ago, so that is eliminated as well...
11-15-2006, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
Your problem is unique. 1st of all I can tell you that you're not running enough power to put a strain on your cars electrical system. I run 2 Fosgate amps @ over 1000 watts and don't have any drainage problems with the battery or alternator. Like you, I only drive my car once a week, sometimes once every 2 weeks and have no dying battery problems.
Your capacitor. Theoretically it's only a storage device. Storage for power. The display on it should automatically shut off when it no longer senses a power fluctuation in the system(idle). That's how it's suppose to work.
I don't know if this is the answer, but it might help. Imagine the LCD portion of the display went out but there is something else in the circuitry causing a constant load on the system. 1st, it will suck the juice out of the capacitor. After that runs out, it will begin to suck the juice out of your battery. Why don't you just disconnect the capacitor terminals and let the car sit a few days to a week. If they car's battery doesn't drain, problem solved.
Your capacitor. Theoretically it's only a storage device. Storage for power. The display on it should automatically shut off when it no longer senses a power fluctuation in the system(idle). That's how it's suppose to work.
I don't know if this is the answer, but it might help. Imagine the LCD portion of the display went out but there is something else in the circuitry causing a constant load on the system. 1st, it will suck the juice out of the capacitor. After that runs out, it will begin to suck the juice out of your battery. Why don't you just disconnect the capacitor terminals and let the car sit a few days to a week. If they car's battery doesn't drain, problem solved.
very good point, i will suggest that as well, because if it is not the amps, neons, or the head unit, all fingers are pointing at the half broken capacitor...
what battery are you using?
11-15-2006, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by azula
what battery are you using?
11-15-2006, 02:08 PM
#11
I found that my cap was constantly drawing power.
The darn thing had a light show and and LED display. The thing would flash LED's and do all sorts of stupid stuff drawing power all day and night. I only drive my Z once a week or so - less if it's raining - so after two mornings where I had to jump start it out the cap came. No problems since.
The darn thing had a light show and and LED display. The thing would flash LED's and do all sorts of stupid stuff drawing power all day and night. I only drive my Z once a week or so - less if it's raining - so after two mornings where I had to jump start it out the cap came. No problems since.
11-15-2006, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by azula
i took it back to the guy that installed the amps/speakers/capacitor and he said that the voltage on the amps are perfect....
11-15-2006, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by azula
relay? can you elaborate? i'm not to audio/technical savvy.....
If your capacitor is fubar though, you might as well get another one instead of "patching" something that's already broken.
11-15-2006, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
A relay...Bosch relay. It acts like a light switch, trigger by your HU remote amp on/off wire. When you turn the HU off, the Capacitor is turned off also.
If your capacitor is fubar though, you might as well get another one instead of "patching" something that's already broken.
If your capacitor is fubar though, you might as well get another one instead of "patching" something that's already broken.
there ya go
11-15-2006, 02:34 PM
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azula, if you haven't learned how to utilize a relay I suggest you learn. They play vitals roles in the audio/car electronics world and can help you remedy alot of tricky issues.
11-15-2006, 02:35 PM
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http://froogle.google.com/froogle?so...00&sa=N&tab=wf
get this relay here....this is what i'm running and it's great! it's really strong and durable so hope this helps.
get this relay here....this is what i'm running and it's great! it's really strong and durable so hope this helps.