BTW ~ You do NOT need any sort of "antenna adapter cable". The Nissan antenna coax will plug directly into the female side on the back of the Pioneer AVIC-D3. I already did it. lol

I know what they're trying to sell you (or did?) but you don't need it. When I installed a headunit in my C5 Corvette it had a "mini-din" antenna cable and I needed an adaptor. The 350Z didn't.

Regards.

 

thanks guys. i'll give it a shot tonight.

another question, since you guys are so helpful. i currently have my sub signal spliced into one of my door speakers from my amp. is it possible to send the signal straight to my amp from the d3 via rca cables? and can i have the power to the amp from the d3 as well? it's currently wired to my cigarette lighter lol.

 

holy crap i clicked this write-up by mistake but now I think I'm gonna buy one! nice job with the walk through

 

Just do it! (not to steal Nike's trademark. lol) It's soooo just cake with this write up.

Definitely, and you should! The Pio D3 not only has dedicated sub-out RCA's, but it also has an onboard crossover/low pass filter so you can take the bass *OUT* of your full-range/component speakers (since it doesn't belong there in the first place) and some basic/decent EQ functions for the sub as well.


Ummm, the D3 has an amp turn-on lead only AFAIK. You should be running a decent power/ground for your amp anyway. If you've got ANY kind of load on that amp, drawing from the cig lighter is just cheating yourself. Come on, lol... put a fused power lead to the battery for that amp. lol Sheesh!

Regards.

 

wow thanks for all that information, im definitely gonna do some work tonight. i'm going to PM you for some more specific questions so i don't hijack this thread.

 

I have the n00best question of this thread. How do you splice the pink wire with the white vss wire & how do you splice the mute and parking brake wire and how do you connect that to the ground.....there is no ring connecter that came with the mute wire.


edit: I think I got it. BUT.....(I have my flame suit on for this) How the heck do you fit all those wires and things back in its place? I just can't fit it in, and my white box is all scratched up trying to fit it in there. I am soooooooo screwed and stuck.

 

There is no "n00best question". Only people that didn't ask and now have a jacked up harness with a VSS that doesn't work because they screwed it up when they were afraid to ask. lol

That said, there are two ways. The "it'll get you by" way and the right way.

1) It'll get you by: Just use what's commonly known as a "scotch-lok" connector or, generically, a "wire-tap". It'll let you place the white VSS wire through it and the pink wire from the harness into it. You'll squeeze it with a pair of pliers to cut into the insulation on both wires basically shorting them together and then you'll close the little plastic cover and you're done.

Pros: Easy

Cons: Not very neat. Not very elegant. Possibly unreliable over the long run.

2) The right way: Use a sharp knife such as an exacto to strip a short piece of insulation from the white VSS wire. Do NOT cut the VSS wire. Just strip a piece of insulation off it (1/2"-ish). Strip back the same, about a 1/2" from the end of the pink wire. Now, wrap the stripped end of the pink wire around the bare section of the white VSS wire. Solder the connection and re-insulate with electrical tape or, better yet, heat shrink tubing.

Pros: If done correctly, no reliability issues. Results in a nice, neat "factory" connection.

Cons: Need basic soldering tools and skills. Have to drag a soldering iron into your car. Takes more time.

But this all goes back to how much time do you have? Enough to do it right? Or, enough to do it over? LOL

You're right, there isn't a ring connector. When you're at Radio Shack picking up some solder, flux, an iron and heat shrink tubing for the above... (or scotch-lok connectors if you're a slacker...lol) you're going to have to grab a pack of assorted ring connectors (and a crimper if you don't have one). If I recall correctly there were four grounds I had to make when I installed my AVIC-D3 and the PAC SWI-PS. Two each from two different points. Anyway, you'll need to at *least* crimp on the ring connectors and ground the wires in the dash. I crimped mine first, then applied a little solder for good measure before I heat shrinked the connector to the wire.


Regards.

 

wow...thank you very much. I was doing some reading online and I was able to find http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=531
So I ttap'ed the VSS wire and crimped on a male tab on the pink wire, its working out. As far as the ebrake wire and the mute wire, I took the red t-tab like thing that came at the end of the ebrake wire and put it on the mute wire. The ring connector that you are talking about goes on the end of the mute wire right?

Thanks again. Did you put the wires above or below the ac control box, I am struggling with the putting back of the dash in the dash

 

what i did was tuck all the wires behind and below the ac control box so i wouldn't need to take anything out the next time i were to connect something (like the sub rca's). this way, whenever you want to connect any additional cables, all you have to do is remove the small panel around the shift **** and voila, they're right there. no unscrewing or dismantling anything else! good luck.

 

great idea....did you install bluetooth adapter?....where did you hook up the yellow part of it, i know the black is ground. Can I just ttap into the yellow wire behind the power of the deck?

 

no bluetooth adapter for me, i really don't need it. i'm sure clarkemtp will be able to help you with that info.

 

I'm done. It looks clean. I am not sure if I did the bypass properly or not. How do I test it?

Edit: I got someone to drive the car while I was in the passenger seat. @ 40 mph I was able to play a dvd, and enter a new address. Does that mean I did the bypass successfully?

 

Yep. You did it right.

 

the way i got around trying to fit all the wires for the hu. was to remove the wires i wasnt using (example. rear monitor output,video output) from the connector.

 

this is perfect thanks man

 

okay so after all this time i finally tried to fix my radio problem. i just connected the blue and blue/white wires (as suggested by kdogg24) and i dont know why but radio still sounds like ***. can someone confirm this is the correct 2 wires to connect?

CLARKEMTP?!

 

If you look are the install photos at the beginning of this thread, you will see a blue wire taped off to the side that says something like "antenna". Connect that to the blue/white wire...if that doesn't work, then you may have connected the speaker wires incorrectly. Verify from the picture at the beginning of this thread that you have all of the other wires connected properly...if that doesn't work, then you may have hardware issues :-(

 

soo... according to the wires picture, it's power antenna to amp turn on? or antenna control? cuz they both are blue with white wire. it actually sounds better now. but not like crystal clear. weird.

 

Thanks for the write up, I used it to just replace my dead Bose unit, very helpful. Some day I might get the unit that you did.

 

sorry guys im still a bit confused by the antenna wiring. which wires do i connect? a previous poster said it was the blue wire to the white and blue.

but according to my wires the white and blue is the 'amp turn-on'.

and the other blue is labeled 'power antenna'

which one is it?