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Old 10-22-2007 | 04:39 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by black06z
Alpine Head unit
lol

Originally Posted by black06z
MB Quarts or Boston Components
lol

Originally Posted by black06z
JL or RF subs
lol

Originally Posted by black06z
Kicker, JL, RF, MTX Amps
lol

you know what these comments remind me of? a Honda Salesman telling a young kid how great the Civic SI coupe is on performance..

all those things you suggested are like suggesting a low 14 second car as a high performance sports car
Old 10-22-2007 | 05:38 PM
  #42  
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^lmao
Old 10-22-2007 | 06:00 PM
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ive always been high on infiniti kappa coaxials/components, but their newest release just didnt do it for me
Old 10-29-2007 | 11:32 AM
  #44  
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Should the doors still have sound dampening material applied if a component set is mounted in custom kick panels (which are dampened themselves)? I'm definitely going the kicks route but am on the line about the sound dampening. I read that a large % of the sound is the install and wonder if this stuff should be applied "no matter what"...
Old 10-29-2007 | 11:51 AM
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Placement is what makes or breaks a system... If you're stuck with stock speaker locations, address dampening, insure solid mounting of all components and invest in some processing (time delay)...

As for the 'best' components, you can pretty much make anything sound good but my preference would be a soft dome tweet and paper cone driver...
Old 10-29-2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ge|atinousFury
Should the doors still have sound dampening material applied if a component set is mounted in custom kick panels (which are dampened themselves)? I'm definitely going the kicks route but am on the line about the sound dampening. I read that a large % of the sound is the install and wonder if this stuff should be applied "no matter what"...
yes, sound dampen the doors. it will block out road and wind noise and help to make the interior quieter.
Old 10-29-2007 | 05:50 PM
  #47  
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rainbow CMX kicks. give them 160 rms each side and deaden the doors with ensolite and raamat.
Old 10-29-2007 | 06:36 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Philthy
Placement is what makes or breaks a system... If you're stuck with stock speaker locations, address dampening, insure solid mounting of all components and invest in some processing (time delay)...

As for the 'best' components, you can pretty much make anything sound good but my preference would be a soft dome tweet and paper cone driver...
I botched my first installation (I was installing good stuff and was confident I could do a DIY).

I didn't get the sound staging I wanted. I went to a Professional Installer for help, and he fixed it. He did pretty much what you recommend. Now I have great sound.

--Spike
Old 10-31-2007 | 05:55 AM
  #49  
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Ok... simple question that I just can't seem to find the answer to: what components can I install in the stock locations without cutting ANYTHING? ie. a complete plug and play solution to upgrade the stock speakers. I don't want to win audio contests; I want something I can hook up to my Alpine HU out of the box without cutting anything. I am sick of having to burn audio cds
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:01 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by KManZ
Ok... simple question that I just can't seem to find the answer to: what components can I install in the stock locations without cutting ANYTHING? ie. a complete plug and play solution to upgrade the stock speakers. I don't want to win audio contests; I want something I can hook up to my Alpine HU out of the box without cutting anything. I am sick of having to burn audio cds
You're talking about using an amp on the components I hope. I wouldn't run them amped on stock wiring, thats just me. I ran a wire through the door jamb and didn't cut any stock wiring.
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:08 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by blasian
You're talking about using an amp on the components I hope. I wouldn't run them amped on stock wiring, thats just me. I ran a wire through the door jamb and didn't cut any stock wiring.
Oh yeah, an amp will be mandatory. I had a Prelude before the Z, and the addition of an amp made the already great system 100 times better! I was more so talking about the 6.5" itself being installed in the door without having to cut anything. Like pull out the stock speaker, insert aftermarket, done and done. From what I am reading, everyone has to cut or add spacers etc.
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:11 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by KManZ
Oh yeah, an amp will be mandatory. I had a Prelude before the Z, and the addition of an amp made the already great system 100 times better! I was more so talking about the 6.5" itself being installed in the door without having to cut anything. Like pull out the stock speaker, insert aftermarket, done and done. From what I am reading, everyone has to cut or add spacers etc.
No spacers here... Only thing I did was drilled 4 holes to accommodate the new speakers. Tweeters are mounted on the stock kick panels. (stock location is a bit harsh IMO)
Old 10-31-2007 | 06:24 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by blasian
No spacers here... Only thing I did was drilled 4 holes to accommodate the new speakers. Tweeters are mounted on the stock kick panels. (stock location is a bit harsh IMO)
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks man! Now if I could only easily retain steering wheel control Can't have everything in one neat package though. I know you need to buy that one unit, but that will have to wait.
Old 11-14-2007 | 12:22 PM
  #54  
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nice thread
Old 11-14-2007 | 12:52 PM
  #55  
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you can take $ 5000 components and install them wrong and place wrong and they will sound bad


you can take panasonic, or jvc, or pioneer components and install and place them and tune them correctly and they will sound great

90% install
10% equipment choice
Old 12-12-2007 | 07:43 PM
  #56  
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Focal polyglass compnents in front and the matching coaxials in the rear. It's a little over 1k, but worth every penny.
Old 12-13-2007 | 10:59 AM
  #57  
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I know that a silk dome tweeter will be far less harse then that of a metal dome tweeter, but what about a glass dome? Im refering to the

Brax Graphic Pro HT1 - Brax 25 mm Glass Dome High-End Tweeters
Old 12-13-2007 | 11:27 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by getsomez's
Focal polyglass compnents in front and the matching coaxials in the rear. It's a little over 1k, but worth every penny.
did you reall bump this thread to give bad advice? or you are just being sarcastic? i can't tell
Old 12-13-2007 | 01:54 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by getsomez's
Focal polyglass compnents in front and the matching coaxials in the rear. It's a little over 1k, but worth every penny.
I went that route (only because I had two set of Polk SR6500's) and can honestly say adding the rears is a waste unless you already have the equipment and amp for it. I love my Polks and find them to be very versatile and smooth. I auditioned the JL ZR, Boston Pros, Focal 165's, and the DynAudio (the latter being in a friend's car so not an equal comparison maybe) and PERSONALLY preferred the SR's. However, those who prefer Focal and Dynaudio for their particular tastes are adament on how incredible they sound to them. Go audition every brand you can and base your decision on your ear. Don't worry about the rears if you don't already have the equipment.
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