bose system
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bose system
so ive read online... and everyone says for puttign in a aftermarket system.. its a ***** to re-wire everything if you have the bose system...
just wondering..whats this mean exactly?
flame suits on....
just wondering..whats this mean exactly?
flame suits on....
#5
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Originally Posted by j rad
so ive read online... and everyone says for puttign in a aftermarket system.. its a ***** to re-wire everything if you have the bose system...
just wondering..whats this mean exactly?
flame suits on....
just wondering..whats this mean exactly?
flame suits on....
--Spike
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#9
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If you have an OEM Bose CES in your Z:
If you want to just replace the H/U and keep the rest of the Bose system (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp): You need a PAC adapter to make your Bose speakers and amp work with the non-Bose H/U. The problem with this setup is you will get some occasional pops and hissing. It’s not “pretty.” Another problem is the low quality Bose components (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp).
If you want a quality CES and you have the Bose “upgrade”: You must replace everything (Bose H/U, front component speakers, rear speakers if you want these, and the SubW and its amp). Replacing the wiring is desirable, but you can keep the OEM wiring in place and connect this to your new components and expect a decent result.
--Spike
If you want to just replace the H/U and keep the rest of the Bose system (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp): You need a PAC adapter to make your Bose speakers and amp work with the non-Bose H/U. The problem with this setup is you will get some occasional pops and hissing. It’s not “pretty.” Another problem is the low quality Bose components (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp).
If you want a quality CES and you have the Bose “upgrade”: You must replace everything (Bose H/U, front component speakers, rear speakers if you want these, and the SubW and its amp). Replacing the wiring is desirable, but you can keep the OEM wiring in place and connect this to your new components and expect a decent result.
--Spike
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Yes my Bose can plays mp3 just fine.. but suck to have my 30GB ipod sitting on the desk collection dust...
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Originally Posted by Spike100
If you have an OEM Bose CES in your Z:
If you want to just replace the H/U and keep the rest of the Bose system (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp): You need a PAC adapter to make your Bose speakers and amp work with the non-Bose H/U. The problem with this setup is you will get some occasional pops and hissing. It’s not “pretty.” Another problem is the low quality Bose components (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp).
If you want a quality CES and you have the Bose “upgrade”: You must replace everything (Bose H/U, front component speakers, rear speakers if you want these, and the SubW and its amp). Replacing the wiring is desirable, but you can keep the OEM wiring in place and connect this to your new components and expect a decent result.
--Spike
If you want to just replace the H/U and keep the rest of the Bose system (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp): You need a PAC adapter to make your Bose speakers and amp work with the non-Bose H/U. The problem with this setup is you will get some occasional pops and hissing. It’s not “pretty.” Another problem is the low quality Bose components (front door component speakers, rear speakers, and SubW with its amp).
If you want a quality CES and you have the Bose “upgrade”: You must replace everything (Bose H/U, front component speakers, rear speakers if you want these, and the SubW and its amp). Replacing the wiring is desirable, but you can keep the OEM wiring in place and connect this to your new components and expect a decent result.
--Spike
thanks spike
im just wantting to replace the h\u and put in a AM amp n' subs.
so the front and rear comp speakers gotta go too?
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I just replaced my BOSE last week for my '07 GT, and took it apart again just yesterday to add my steering wheel controls (PAC SWI-JACK).
I replaced my BOSE with a Kenwood DDX512 keeping the BOSE speakers, and added Alpine sub and amp to my car w/ the Zenclosure TypeS.
It wasn't that hard. I used the metra 70-7551 harness (the one w/ the RCA cables). It hooks up fine, but I don't think it's "perfect". I hear a very light buzz sound when nothing is playing. And the volume needs to be turned up like 3/4 to max for it to play at a good listening level (this is because of the RCA harness i believe, the voltage to the BOSE amp not being the same level as the BOSE unit).
So maybe that's y some ppl would suggest the PAC-ROEM-NIS2, some interface, which i'm not sure if it works for the 2006+ BOSE. But I don't really mind it much.
And yeah, the 2006+ BOSE systems can play CDs with MP3s
I replaced my BOSE with a Kenwood DDX512 keeping the BOSE speakers, and added Alpine sub and amp to my car w/ the Zenclosure TypeS.
It wasn't that hard. I used the metra 70-7551 harness (the one w/ the RCA cables). It hooks up fine, but I don't think it's "perfect". I hear a very light buzz sound when nothing is playing. And the volume needs to be turned up like 3/4 to max for it to play at a good listening level (this is because of the RCA harness i believe, the voltage to the BOSE amp not being the same level as the BOSE unit).
So maybe that's y some ppl would suggest the PAC-ROEM-NIS2, some interface, which i'm not sure if it works for the 2006+ BOSE. But I don't really mind it much.
And yeah, the 2006+ BOSE systems can play CDs with MP3s
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System
I replaced everything but the headunit...
It's relatively easy if you don't mind taking the entire car apart and you are ok with splicing a few wires.
the most difficult part is the color for the wires...
you have signal wires coming off the headunit to a line out converter (loc) or to an eq or something.
You also have to splice the wires from the amp to the speakers. If you want to rerun new wires this isnt hard. If you want to use the factory wiring you have to splice back into the system.
From the headunit you have 4 wires to splice to the loc and then from the amps you have 4 more wires to splice back into the system to complete the circuit, but the wires are different colors (the set of wires coming off the HU and the wires you splice back into are not all the same color combo) and it can be a pain.
I had a little bit of noise in my system but worked it out.
I would really like to hear what a "top notch" stereo sounds like b/c after tuning my system and installing quality parts I cannot imagine a system sounding a whole lot better... but maybe that's just me...
BTW this is what I have
165 Focal vrs (stock stereo wiring)
Zapco 200.2 (8 gauge)
Zapco 500.1 (4 gauge)
Audio Control EQX
JL 10w6v2 (don't flame... IDQ10 wouldn't fit)
Stinger wire all the way around and a fused power distribution block. Using a ground "nut" like thing... Best Buy brand speaker wires from amp (fronts). Stinger 12 gauge wire to my sub. Zapco symbilink cables out of the EQX (takes the place of RCA's when using Zapco).
It's relatively easy if you don't mind taking the entire car apart and you are ok with splicing a few wires.
the most difficult part is the color for the wires...
you have signal wires coming off the headunit to a line out converter (loc) or to an eq or something.
You also have to splice the wires from the amp to the speakers. If you want to rerun new wires this isnt hard. If you want to use the factory wiring you have to splice back into the system.
From the headunit you have 4 wires to splice to the loc and then from the amps you have 4 more wires to splice back into the system to complete the circuit, but the wires are different colors (the set of wires coming off the HU and the wires you splice back into are not all the same color combo) and it can be a pain.
I had a little bit of noise in my system but worked it out.
I would really like to hear what a "top notch" stereo sounds like b/c after tuning my system and installing quality parts I cannot imagine a system sounding a whole lot better... but maybe that's just me...
BTW this is what I have
165 Focal vrs (stock stereo wiring)
Zapco 200.2 (8 gauge)
Zapco 500.1 (4 gauge)
Audio Control EQX
JL 10w6v2 (don't flame... IDQ10 wouldn't fit)
Stinger wire all the way around and a fused power distribution block. Using a ground "nut" like thing... Best Buy brand speaker wires from amp (fronts). Stinger 12 gauge wire to my sub. Zapco symbilink cables out of the EQX (takes the place of RCA's when using Zapco).
Last edited by Roper215; 08-10-2008 at 10:15 AM.
#15
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Originally Posted by j rad
thanks spike
im just wantting to replace the h\u and put in a AM amp n' subs.
so the front and rear comp speakers gotta go too?
im just wantting to replace the h\u and put in a AM amp n' subs.
so the front and rear comp speakers gotta go too?
You can probably just disconnect the rear coaxial speakers (at least for now and wait to see if you really need or want them).
Replace the front component speakers with something that matches the power output of you new external amp. I prefer Focals, but there are many good component speakers that cost less and provide great sound.
--Spike
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