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Old 01-24-2009, 03:33 PM
  #21  
seank426
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Ya one of the guys at the install place was telling me how its fairly easy and how I could prob just do it myself. Is the dynamat door kit enough for both doors? It says it should be enough for 2 standard sized doors.

Stupid questions but where is the DIY sections of this forums, new here and still learning my way around :/

Last edited by seank426; 01-24-2009 at 03:38 PM.
Old 01-24-2009, 05:12 PM
  #22  
adamtaylorpcb
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https://my350z.com/forum/do-it-yourself-guides-377/
Old 01-25-2009, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by adamtaylorpcb
rip off... $300 to basically put stickers on your doors is rediculous
While I agree that $300 is excessive, Its not as simple as just putting stickers on your doors. Door panel removal is fairly easy. To get inside the door (which I recommend) you need to remove the window assembly and inner door skin plate. That takes time and some experience lining everything back up perfectly again. It took me about 5 hours for both doors and about 20-24 square feet of deadener total. So If I were to do that for somebody I would charge about $300 labour and maybe $200 in materials. Time is money and you pay for experience.

And yes, there is a wrong way to do it!
Old 01-25-2009, 01:09 PM
  #24  
seank426
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how much should I expect to spend on speaker wire for everything and what kind should I get. I no absolute nothing about speaker wire, any links to good places to purchase from?
Old 01-25-2009, 07:04 PM
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adamtaylorpcb
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i bought 75 ft of monster thx 600 stuff and only have like 10 ft left but mine was 3way with the crossovers near the strut bar
Old 01-25-2009, 08:14 PM
  #26  
seank426
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stupid question but will I need different wires for different things or does everything use the same stuff. Like will the wires I use to hook up my subs be the same at my 6.5" and tweets and everything else.

Also could you guys throw some links to some good wire kits or w/e for a decent price.

Last edited by seank426; 01-25-2009 at 08:19 PM.
Old 01-25-2009, 08:43 PM
  #27  
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Mid range/mid bass can be anywhere from 12-18 guage wire depending on the power. Tweets will need 16-20 guage. Subs will need 8-12 guage generally.

The way I have it is 12 guage to my mid bass, 14 guage to my tweets and 8 guage to my subs. My set-up is a little more extreme than most (power wise).
Old 01-26-2009, 04:35 AM
  #28  
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yeah, i have 8g to my sub and 14g to my midbass, midrange and tweet

i have this stuff

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Monster-Cabl...1|293:1|294:50

or this if its 2 way

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Monster-Cabl...0|293:1|294:50
Old 01-26-2009, 11:47 AM
  #29  
seank426
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What are the differences (pros/cons) to different gauges. Such as what would the different be between 8 gauge and 12 gauge for the subs.
Old 01-26-2009, 11:57 AM
  #30  
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8 is larger than 12

better flow, higher capacity

with wire, the lower the number the bigger the wire
Old 01-26-2009, 12:36 PM
  #31  
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so lower = bigger wire = better

does lower = more expensive?

Why not use the lowest for everything instead of 8 for sub 12 for tweets etc.
Old 01-26-2009, 02:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by seank426
so lower = bigger wire = better

does lower = more expensive?

Why not use the lowest for everything instead of 8 for sub 12 for tweets etc.
Yes, lower = more expensive and as such there is no need to buy expensive 8ga wire for your tweeters. Also, it is harder to wire your car with thicker cables...
Old 01-26-2009, 02:57 PM
  #33  
seank426
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how much do you guys think it should cost for all the wiring?

Is there anything else I will need to get before getting it installed?
Old 01-26-2009, 04:05 PM
  #34  
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amp kit
speaker wire- wont need larger than 12 at the very most for components, i would suggest 14 as a good point or even 16 if its lower power
Old 01-26-2009, 04:33 PM
  #35  
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so 8 for subs 12 for mids and 16 for tweets would be really good?
Old 01-26-2009, 06:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by seank426
so 8 for subs 12 for mids and 16 for tweets would be really good?
Yes, that is more than good enough for most systems. In fact, you could get away with 10 or 12 for the subs, 14 guage for the mids and 16 ga for the tweets and still have plenty of headroom or room for upgrades later on.
No need to spend more than you need to.
Old 01-26-2009, 06:55 PM
  #37  
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What about this:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1172276905085

I no its may seem like I like but I believe I get atleast a 50% discount because I work at bby, Ill check later this week. Is 16 g to high for mids. I will be running Hertz in the front w/ 120w rms going to them.
Old 01-26-2009, 07:20 PM
  #38  
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I just got hit w/ an idea, sorta off topic from the speaker wire but I started looking at amps again to power my set of HSK165's and I began to think why do I need a 4 channel amp if I'm only replacing my front 2 speakers. So I was thinking that I could get a much much better amp then the kicker 08zx650.4 that I was looking at and get a JL Audio 300/2v2 for the same price. That amp puts out 150w rms x 2 which is perfect for my hsk's for I've been reading that a lot of people have been putting like 175w to them.

My only question is, if I do that should I

1) Hook up my STOCK rear speakers (pos) to my new headunit which is 50w x 4 or
2) Just not having anything hooked up in the rear. Could the back speakers being bad take away from the overall SQ?
Old 01-26-2009, 07:37 PM
  #39  
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Sean - as orgasm_donor said above, you will be fine with 16ga for your tweeters. I plan on running 300 watts per side and 16ga will be ok.

If you plan on going active, go with 4 channel amp. If you plan on using your crossovers then go with 2 channel amp. I, myself, am still undecided if I'll go active or passive but from what I've been gathered from reading and from what orgasm_donor told me I will more than likely go with active. Your deck, alpine 9887, is capable of running active. If you want to find out pros and cons between running active and passive or just want to educate yourself more about it, just google active vs. passive and I'm sure there will be few good reads on it.

Also, as far as the rear deck goes... you can always wire it to the deck and then try balancing between front only and front and rear to see what you like better.
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