I have gone through 2 10inch w7s already. The foam around the sub keeps ripping and I dont even push the sub hard. I have a 500/1 amp and its tuned properly. One shop told me the Z does not have enough air space to support this sub, is this true? Its in a proper sealed box built to spec with an amp rack. (i got it from zenclosure) Any ideas? Thanks in advance..

 

that's kind of odd for a w7 from my experience @ least. As far as a W7 in a Z, it does seem like a good bit of an overkill. I've never heard of improper airspace causing the surround to rip though.

 

Improper air space will cause any sub to blow. The Zenclosures definitely to not have enough air space for that sub. It's not listed on the JL site, but if you cross any audio shop and ask them the recommended size box for a w7 and they'll say 2.5cbft ported box at least. Zenclosures can't be any more than 1.5-1.75 un-ported. Best bet it to build you own box that will go all the way back to your rear speakers and under the floorboard for max airspace or the same thing will keep happening.

Those W7s are some of the cleanest sounding subs out there, but they just aren't made to take an @ss kicking ya know . I ended up switching to the RF T212D2 for this reason. Not as clean but I've had it for 3 years no problem.

 

well yeah, I know improper airspace in the box would cause it to blow. That's obvious, but not enough airspace inside a vehicle? I didnt know that could cause one to blow..... I thought that as long as the box had the correct airspace and tuning that you'd be fine no matter what it's in...?

 

You're right. Vehicle size has nothing to do with it at all. The Zenclosure box is the issue. It's not made for a w7 despite their claims. It's far too small and its not ported. That's why you see so many others that have sub boxes that extend under the trunk mat.

 

ok gotcha, had me confused for a second. I just assumed it was built with enough airspace, because the OP stated the box was built to spec. It's beyond me how it could be been built to spec with the amount of airspace required, but I didnt really know what he may have altered to pull it off. What about possibly downgrading to a W6? Would it maybe require a little less airspace?

 

It was an issue I had with my sub 12" Rockford fosgate and had to build it myself cause no shop wanted to touch it. Talk about a PITA. My box goes under the strut and to the back of the seats and I pulled 2.14cuft airspace. When I stopped by the Sound Sensations (High end audio shop in Atlanta), They were pushing to sell a set up that JL actually made for the Z with a w3. Huge downgrade, but that's supposedly what's best for the Z from JL. It's designed for that amount of air space, but you know we all want MORE lol.

 

well really, to do it right and to spec, there's not much more you can do. Well, at least not if you want to keep the spare tire and have easy access to it. Thats one of my main things. I refuse to remove the spare b/c you never know when somethin may happen. Now that I think of it, it's useless to me b/c I changed lugs 4 my new wheels and they wont work on my stock wheels or spare. Hm, maybe I should work on that. LOL

 

AAA my friend AAA! Save weight and take the spare out!

 

I never had any problems with the 10W7 I had. But i downsized to a 10W6V2, and had the same problem as you with the surrounding part around the cone ripping. I also didn't push it very hard, and I had the JL grill for the w6v2 on always so nothing in the trunk could have caused the rip.

On another note, my 300/2 is also screwed up now. . Granted I have been using it for about 6 years, so I got decent use out of it I guess. Only $120 to get fixed from JL.

 

I know you guys may flame me for it, but after I got rid of my JL w7s I switched to some Diamond subs and ran my Memphis Audio amp, and I loved them.. I never was a fan of the foam surround on the JL subs. Always seemed to weak for the power output to me

 

lol as far as AAA goes, I go up to the Dragon a lot, and AAA doesn't do much good if you can't call out to get them lol. You being from Atlanta you may have heard of the place. It's an awesome run of curves up here in Tennessee that runs across the NC/TN state line. Perfect place to have a little fun in the Z, just no phone service.

 

i had my w7 10 in a 1.4ft^3 ported box and it sounded great.... in the process of building a new box thats just over 2ft^3 sealed before displacement


no clue what your problem is.

you sure you dont have the amp set up wrong?

 

Well, there are a bunch of audio experts here. First of all the w7 will perform well in a sealed or ported enclosure. The enclosure recommendations are listed on JL's site (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?series_id=5). Too little airspace in the car will not affect the subwoofer. The only way enclosure size will blow the sub is if your enclosure is far too large and it causes over excursion which will bottom out the sub. As for your surround problem, I'm stumped. You could be pushing the sub to hard. Do you have any pics of the sub?

 

do you have anything in the back that could be hitting it..... its not normal for that to happen, even if the sub is bottoming out. the w7 can bottom out and still have room to move vertically on the surround.


could you be FUBARing the sub when you install it somehow?

 

Yeah my bike crew rides up through there around Memorial Day weekend. I have a Hayabusa so her big butt has no business on those curves. Little 600s would give me the business up there. If I ever downsize and get a 750 or 1000 I'll make it happen.

Back on topic though. I have to agree with everyone else with the actual wiring set up. Though a smaller box would make it sound like poo, I don't think it would cause the foam to come off if you aren't pushing it too hard. Show pics please.

 

First of all thanks for all the great input everyone. Since I have gone through a couple of these subs... I ususally notice the foam around the sub cracks first, making it weak. This is when I changed the first sub since it was under warrenty. Then the second sub cracked the same way except one day it started to make a popping sound. I pulled over and checked the sub and it looked fine. When I gently pressed against the foam i noticed the inner side at the top completly was torn. I have tunned my amp at different shops and I am certain that is not the problem. I rarely turn the bass up from the deck since the foam cracked on the first sub. I think ktnupe is right about the box being the problem. I will post some pics today. Any ideas for a new sub with the same enclosure which will be much stronger, I have a 500/1 or a 1000/1 amp to work with. Any ideas on a strong sub that would handle the 1000/1 cause I was planning on trying it this summer. Thanks in advance...

 

What does FUBARing mean?

 

Is the minimum RMS rating on your amp to little that will cause a sub to blow out.

 

I dont think so, 500/1 is considered a perfect match for the 10jlw7.