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Is more sound deadening better?

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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 02:19 AM
  #1  
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Default Is more sound deadening better?

I am going to be sound deaden my car here in the next few weeks and was wondering if I would be OK putting a sheet on the outer door skin and the inner door skin. Using it minimally to cut costs and weight. I do not want to cover every inch of my car, but just cover enough to make her happy.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 04:46 AM
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I don't understand your question.

Are you asking if its possible to do that?

Are you asking is it sufficient to apply sound deadener to those two parts of the vehicle alone and nowhere else and expect it to decrease road noise dramatically?
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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im asking if i use about 4 sq ft on my door will it help deaden the door to make my speakers sound a little better and get rid of some rattles? im going to be using secondskin Damplifier pro.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by turtleboy
im asking if i use about 4 sq ft on my door will it help deaden the door to make my speakers sound a little better and get rid of some rattles? im going to be using secondskin Damplifier pro.
"A little," yes.
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by turtleboy
I am going to be sound deaden my car here in the next few weeks and was wondering if I would be OK putting a sheet on the outer door skin and the inner door skin. Using it minimally to cut costs and weight. I do not want to cover every inch of my car, but just cover enough to make her happy.
Removal: Door panel, then glass, then the black secondary panel.

When removing the glass, it's mounted with 3 bolts, that you can access by removing the set of 3 black circle covers, either in the completely down position, or partially up position. Before unbolting the glass, mark the position of the bolts using a marker or something. This little 5min extra step will save you a lot of time when reassembling the door.

Don't skip this step. The window has to be completely rolled up and door closed to test fitment. This will save you from having to plug the window switch harness back in and closing and opening the door over a dozen times to make adjustments.

The doors naturally can be done individually, since they are separete from the rest of the car. The trunk can mostly be done as 1 job as well. The wheel wells in the hatch area take up quite a bit of time.

Everything forward of the strut bar, is pretty much attached to the car, and to each other. Most of this will require complete disassembly of the interior.

The center console can't be unbolted without removing the seats. The center console can't be removed without undoing the shifter console and cubby. The carpet can't be removed without removing the center console.

It takes a ton of time to do most of the car, and it leaves just a noticeable difference. I won't go as far as to say it was a significant difference, but it is noticeable while driving.

It does absolutely nothing for tire roar from the front. This is just my experience with doing my own car. When all was said and done, it's quieter than a Z, but not as quiet as a base Toyota Corolla.

Terry
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by T_K
Removal: Door panel, then glass, then the black secondary panel.

When removing the glass, it's mounted with 3 bolts, that you can access by removing the set of 3 black circle covers, either in the completely down position, or partially up position. Before unbolting the glass, mark the position of the bolts using a marker or something. This little 5min extra step will save you a lot of time when reassembling the door.

Don't skip this step. The window has to be completely rolled up and door closed to test fitment. This will save you from having to plug the window switch harness back in and closing and opening the door over a dozen times to make adjustments.

The doors naturally can be done individually, since they are separete from the rest of the car. The trunk can mostly be done as 1 job as well. The wheel wells in the hatch area take up quite a bit of time.

Everything forward of the strut bar, is pretty much attached to the car, and to each other. Most of this will require complete disassembly of the interior.

The center console can't be unbolted without removing the seats. The center console can't be removed without undoing the shifter console and cubby. The carpet can't be removed without removing the center console.

It takes a ton of time to do most of the car, and it leaves just a noticeable difference. I won't go as far as to say it was a significant difference, but it is noticeable while driving.

It does absolutely nothing for tire roar from the front. This is just my experience with doing my own car. When all was said and done, it's quieter than a Z, but not as quiet as a base Toyota Corolla.

Terry
Thanks for all the tips!
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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^^ on Terry's advice (Post #6)

His comments are exactly what I discovered when adding sound deadening. For sure you want to do the doors if you add quality front speakers. Doing the back deck area helps.

But, it's not easy to keep the roar of those summer performance tires from entering your car's interior. Sound deadening projects won't quiet the car as much as you hope for unless you disassemble the entire interior, and you need to deaden the wheel well areas as well. That's a big job. Some members here have done that.

--Spike
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