I have read about 200 post on Audio and have seen some hints, however no answers to what comp tweets fit directly in the factory locations w/o mods?

At first it looked like all 3/4" than I saw a few people claiming that comp systems with 1" tweets were "a great fit"

Anyone have an answer based on size - or even what comp sets have had tweets that snug right in w/o cutting the sails?

Thanks

 

I wouldnt put them in there 1. you would have to take them apart 2. you lose any adjustment capability.3 depending on if its a bright tweeter it will sound bad. Install them in the a pillar near the bottom of the windshield that offers the best sound and you can point it to where it sounds the best. Its much easir than taking the door apart plus if your not hooking them up to an amp dont bother.

 

I have a set of 1" tweeters installed. A thorough audio build should include spectral analysis or sound meter testing. This would allow for proper set-up of all speakers to give the best possible sound available. Some H/U's even allow you to do tesing from the unit itself!!

Good luck.

 

I agree fully on the imaging...l However I want to keep the factory look and cutting 1" holes in my pillars doesn't make me happy. If I really wanted to keep things to be best for Imaginging I would mount the tweets within 12" of the mid bass. I plan on taking the door interior trim off to install my mid bass speakers which will be amped. As for the tweets being to bright, most crossovers have neg db settings -1 -3 -6db to make room for this.

So in a nutshell still want them in the factory locaions and I dont want to drill out the sails - Did the 1" fit right in w/out cuttiing? What are they make a model? still looking for the "right" answer!

Thanks

 

^^ I had DynAudio tweeters installed. There was some slight drilling done. Why not pick up a spare set so you can return to stock when ready??

 

about $85/sail panel

 

Ebay seller turbo-toys has both sides for 40 each buy it now. I understand the return-to-stock idea, however it's a major PITA. I've never carried door speakers from old car to new car. Subs and amps are one thing, but I would be banking on my new car having the same size speaker location, which doesn't happen as often as I would like. I will second duro78's recommendation of the a-pillar. It doesn't have to look like a hack-job, a shop did this for me because I wanted a factory look:

 

That looks awesome... Unfortunatly not many places up my way that can do work as nice as that.

I'll take a look at ebay - thanks for the tip

 

TomCat0197: That's a really nice solution!!! Looks clean and OEM like.
LMA do you have speakers in the kick panels??

 

I disagree meters and gauges cant determine what an individuals personal taste is reason being sq is subjective. The only thing imo should be used is a dimm to properly register voltage drop and amp settings. A machine cant tell me what sounds good

 

I have 1" tweeters in my sail, there's no way it'd fit without modifications. I don't know of any that would because the stock tweeter is pretty small. I'm running an active setup and my stage is perfectly fine with the tweeter on the sail.

 

Tomcats suggestion is the best idea imo cant beat it for $40

 

You can actually use the stock grill as a base and screw the tweeter into it and still maintain the ability to point it in a desirable direction which is what I did. As long as your tweets arent too bright or harsh it makes for a decent spot. The only downside is they're too far from the wind shield for the sound to bounce back at you

 

xzotklr: Thanks, the mids are in the factory location. For now. The comps are Morel, so the mount is actually elliptic which formed the majority of the shape.

kermyb123: I know what you mean about finding the right shop. I've installed most of my own stereo systems over the years, I've even tried my hand at duramix bonding and fiberglass enclosures. But that kind of work never turned out right for me. I actually had the work done about 70 miles from home because I did not like the offerings in San Antonio. The local shop who insalled my HU didn't want to install the crossover's near the amp, mentioning extra wiring. (Guess they had never thought of active set-ups.) Not to mention the fact that they insisted on an under-strut bar enclosure for the sub which, with theft in my area, wouldn't work for me. The shop I used is hidden in an auto repair complex. I never would have seen it if I hadn't already pulled the location on mapquest. Even if you have to expand your search area a bit, I would definitely check into what shops could do with your a-pillars.

 

I did mine this way. I am real please with the sound.

 

Quaker- Yeah Thats what I noticed - The Bostons I'm looking at come with .75" tweets.

TomCat- If you don't mind me asking do you know what they charged you to customer mold those pillars? Looks like a lot of plastic weld and getting the texture just right. I can only imagine the hours it could have taken to do such a beautiful job.

 

IIRC it was about 150 for the install.

 

My opinion is the Sail Panel is not a good position for your tweeter.

• The “housing” is too small for many good tweeters.
• It’s nearly impossible to stage the high frequency sound from this mount for both the driver and passenger.
• The setting available in a good crossover can’t fix the problem because the Sail Panel mount shoots the highly directional sound right at the driver and the passenger. If you set it for the driver’s seat, it’s not good for the passenger, and setting the crossover for the passenger will blast the driver’s seat.

As duro78, TomCat0197, and cdoxp800 point out, your best position is the A-Pillar. Using this position, you can set the direction for both the driver’s and passenger’s seat. You can bounce the sound off the front windshield, or just direct it across the car’s interior and in front of the listeners.

My tweeter mount (similar to what duro78 describes, and pictures from TomCat0197, and cdoxp800 posts):



The concept:



Another possibility is mounting your tweeters in the kick space. That keeps the sound in front of the car’s occupants, and allows for excellent staging without bouncing the sound.

--Spike

 

If you're going to want staging for both driver and passenger then I'm sure you'd need to step it up and go for a 3-way setup....but just do what I did and say screw the passenger staging! They don't know what staging is anyways. The stock location actually isn't that bad when you dremel the hole bigger, and cut out some of the plastic on the back.

I used a textile dome tweeter which imo isn't as bright as aluminum dome tweeter. Drilled out the hole a little bigger and cut some of the back piece off.

Edit: I also don't think you necessarily need the tweeter to bounce off the windshield as long as you have T/A and EQ adjust ability.

Here's a picture of it. Looks stock.

 

F the passenger unless there forking over some $ towards the build their lucky their getting a ride