I want to upgrade my stereo but not to much because on a budget.

I want to keep my factory radio and not add a 4-channel. Are there some lower power coaxial speakers that would sound better then the factory but the factory radio could push. Maybe something like 25rms or lower? Look for a 4 ohm correct? I read on crutchfield that as long as you have 90db and up efficient rating it will be okay with a factory radio this true?

Or is it better to just leave the stock speakers and lower the bass and use for volume and have subs do the bass.

The other thing is add bass. Thinking z enclosure, (2) 10" subs under the strut bar powered by a 2 channel amp. I don't want anything crazy or spend alot.

Would these be good. There a known name. And they push out decent power-

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KAC-7205...ht_5601wt_1165

They make the zenclosure in both versions. 2 subs sharing 1 chamber 1.4 total volume cu. ft. or would it be better to have seperate chamber .7 cu ft. for each sub?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-350z-Subw...ht_1909wt_1165

I found someone did exact same setup pics and all-

http://www.orlandoforums.com/forum/s...d.php?t=130523

I apperciate it!

 

Just about any coaxial speaker you buy for the rear will be a great improvement over the OEM Clarion rear speakers. The OEM Clarion H/U will drive an intermediate speaker with no problem at all.

But, I must ask: Why do you want to replace the rear speaker?

And, adding a SubW, its enclosure, and dedicated amp is a good thing, but if you keep your OEM Clarion H/U you need to realize that this H/U is not designed with controls to support a SubW or an external amp.

--Spike

 

Hey man thanks for the reply.

Well I want to keep cost really down.

I want and like the factory radio. I don't want to spend the cost for 4-channel amp & installation is expensive.

So really think the factory radio will be able to push aftermarket speaker. Will the bass, loudness be better then stock. I'm not looking for anything big. I just want to make sure don't degrade factory sound system.

Is the front worth replacing? Keep the factory tweeters? Which speaker would you put in? Something low watts but more then factory?

Well i always liked rear speakers i know lot of people just like fronts. Well my 1 rear don't sound right and passenger don't even work. Which speaker for the rear?

I know the factory speakers are 32 ohm. It's okay to put a 4 ohm speaker?

What do you think of that box/sub/amp combo. Will that be decent. Nothing crazy but will sound good. According to that link i found it looks good and says it sound good.

Well i know your limit on control with amp & factory radio. I would just do a Line out converter so factory radio can accept rca cables.

 

why would you do a line out conversion if the amp you are looking at has speaker level inputs??? seems rather redundant to me. also, while im commenting, i would suggest getting a four channel amp and driving a new/inexpensive set of comps in the front with channels 1 and 2 and bridging 3/4 to run both of your 4ohm subs at 2 ohms (if i were you, i would scrap the rear speakers). so actually you will be able to control the subs from your stock head unit by using the fader feature as you will be supplying you signal for the comps from FL/FR and your signal for the subs with RL/RR. so simply fading from rear to front or front to read would let you either increase or decrease your level of bass without fiddling with the amp

 

Ya i know 4-channel would be the ideal thing just don't want to get that involved with a stereo system.

If want to keep the factory radio and not buy a 4-channel. If i'm set on this is it not even worth upgrading the speakers since i hear most people say for aftermarket speakers need a external amp because factory radio amp is't enough?

I forgot about speaker inputs. Do you just tie that in the rear speakers? And just use the base factory control to adjust the sub and fine tune the amp controls?

Is that box, sub, amp combo fit good with a factory stereo/possible aftermarket speakers only?

If i stick with factory speakers i might just replace the rears so they work right.

 

if your going to be using the rear speaker wires for your sub signal, i wouldnt be running rear speakers. in a vehicle as small as ours, rear speakers (in my opinion) take away from the fronts

also, you wont really be doing much "fine tuning" with the factory HU no matter what you do. most of your tuning will take place at the amp its self

 

So as far as door/rear speakers it's just better to leave the factory speakers unless i'm going to do a 4-channel and aftermarket headunit and go all out?

Ya i understand the rears what your talking about i guess i just want to fix them just so they work. I can get them for $20. So no big deal. It's just remove quarter trim then lift the whole trim piece to access speakers right.

I'm more focused on the zenclosure, kenwood amp, (2) 10" subs. Will it sound really good. Seems good to get all this for $350. The 250 rms to each 300 rms sub good match? I mean they do sell them together and someone has done it. And these don't seem to much to over power the factory speakers. In my opionion the factory speakers sound are fine. Especially when take little bass off them and they get pretty loud without distortion and let the subs do the rest of the bass.

It doesnt matter if the subs signal is of the rear speakers. All it is is just getting a signal. Not like taking power away.

My brother has a tacoma w/ (2) 12" on the factory radio w/ LOC and sounds very good.

 

It sounds as though you’ve made your decision (replace the rears and add the Kenwood amp and SubW’s).

The OEM Clarion H/U’s internal amp will drive those $20 replacement speakers you mention, so you’re good there. The rear speaker slots are exposed when removing the rear panels to install the Sub amp, so it’s really no extra work, and $20 is a small investment.

The Kenwood KAC-7205 amp comes with a harness for speaker level input connections. That’s probably the way to go when connecting this to your factory radio. Using the radio’s fader and the amp’s controls should allow you to balance the sound adequately.

Your expectations sound realistic, so this should work for you.

--Spike