solder vs clamps
#4
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^^ Delete this thread you say? Not so fast since it deserves additional comments.
When I install wiring, I solder the wires and cover joints with shrink-wrap if I do not need to change things and want a “permanent” installation.
I often swap components for testing. In this case I use blade connectors that have shrouding. That connection never fails. I do solder the wire connecting to the shrouded blade connector.
I never” crimp” when connecting wires. As Dave mentions, that type of connection will eventually fail.
--Spike
When I install wiring, I solder the wires and cover joints with shrink-wrap if I do not need to change things and want a “permanent” installation.
I often swap components for testing. In this case I use blade connectors that have shrouding. That connection never fails. I do solder the wire connecting to the shrouded blade connector.
I never” crimp” when connecting wires. As Dave mentions, that type of connection will eventually fail.
--Spike
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#8
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Use a high quality tape (I only use Scotch 33+). Sure, it hurts to pay $5 a roll when you can buy the cheap stuff for $0.99 but a high quality tape will not leave residue, won't shrink, won't slide, won't do anything but stay where you put it for as long as you own the car.
My issue with heat shrink is that you have to cut the wire in order to put it on. If you are doing a radio harness that isn't a big deal, if you are doing an alarm or other in car job that isn't always the best way to go. A high quality tape will outlast the car and is quicker and easier to apply.
My issue with heat shrink is that you have to cut the wire in order to put it on. If you are doing a radio harness that isn't a big deal, if you are doing an alarm or other in car job that isn't always the best way to go. A high quality tape will outlast the car and is quicker and easier to apply.
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That"s the only tape I use is the 33+ when doing alarms, but I will zip tie each wire together so there is no tension also. It is by far the best electrical tape out there, but even that tape in the heat of summer can get very gooey.
#10
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I agree with Kevin’s comments:
I prefer using shrink wrap when it’s easy to install (e.g., connecting two wires end-to-end when both are easily accessible), but there are cases where tape is more practical (e.g., a “T connections” joining an end of one wire into the middle of another wire, access problems when wiring without doing a completer disassembly, etc.).
revho’s comment is also correct:
The tape’s adhesive does become “gooey” when the car is in hot climates, but my experience is that it sort of just welds together and does not become slippery (something that Kevin mentions in his Msg. #8 above).
Something no one mentions is the importance of leaving plenty of slack in your wires when soldering connections. It’s a pain when doing disassembly/reassembly of A/V components when there is inadequate wire-length and using “permanent connections.” You do not want to be stretching and pulling on your soldered wires. If for some reason you cannot leave extra length, use a shrouded (insulated) spade connector when connecting single wires or build a custom harness for multiple wires coming to a common point.
--Spike
Use a high quality tape (I only use Scotch 33+). Sure, it hurts to pay $5 a roll when you can buy the cheap stuff for $0.99 but a high quality tape will not leave residue, won't shrink, won't slide, won't do anything but stay where you put it for as long as you own the car. […]
revho’s comment is also correct:
Something no one mentions is the importance of leaving plenty of slack in your wires when soldering connections. It’s a pain when doing disassembly/reassembly of A/V components when there is inadequate wire-length and using “permanent connections.” You do not want to be stretching and pulling on your soldered wires. If for some reason you cannot leave extra length, use a shrouded (insulated) spade connector when connecting single wires or build a custom harness for multiple wires coming to a common point.
--Spike
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