which of the JL subs produces the tightest, deepest bass and has the best SQ? (ignoring watts)

 

if you know, please vote

 

The sound of the sub is VERY dependent on the enclosure size, shape, construction, and lining. It is also dependent on the amp you use and how well it drives the woofer.

Your question is a good question. I am just saying that you need to consider all these factors, don;t just put all your faith in the driver piece.

 

well. i am having a custom built enclosure, and i have a 2ohm 800watt Audiobahn amp. So i am pretty well covered on everything thats why i just want to know about the sub

 

w7 = insane sq and insane spl
w6v2 = same sq as w7 with less excursion (not AS loud, but still hits nice)
w3v2 = less sq than w6, more spl than w6, but w7 still ownz the others.

You have an amp that does 800w @ 2ohms...remember that if you get the w7, it's a 3ohm sub so you'll probably get about 600w going to it. If you go with the w6 or w3, you'll need to make sure to get the right voice coil configuration. I don't think 1 can handle 800w, but a pair sure could

How much do you want to spend? Honestly, you worry tooooo much about the sub. Concern yourself more with your front stage and you'll be way happier. Loud azz bass without good fronts is never good.

 

Well hmmm....loaded question. I personally had all 3 of these in my car trying to figure out what sounded "better". I have 2 10's (one behind each seat). AS far as loudest and deepest, W7 pounds the cr@p out of the car. The w6v2 sounded almost as loud and as clear. The w3v2 went in and they hit almost as hard and sounded just as clear to me. When we put them all on the table for a comparison, I chose the w3v2 because the cost vs. sound comparison ruled the others out (price was not an factor for the system, but I wanted the best bang for the buck). I do not think you will be disappointed with the w3v2s and with 800 watts, you ARE pushing the warranty line for the w3v2 but then again, i push 2 with a JL 500/1 and I gain it way down so I don't get a headache. It is all about the enclosure as well. Good luck and again, I'd go w3v2 unless you are competing (hopefully not with 1 sub ) or looking for the "vanity factor". Again, I had a pair of each of these and in that small of a car space, the w3v2s will pound plenty hard and deep and are just as clear at 1/3 the cost.

 

OH GOD (big eye roll) here we go again!

 

whats the difference in the 2ohm, 4ohm, and 6ohm for the 10"w3v2? i just bought a 6ohm but i think i shouldve got 4...does it really matter...and if i put 2 10"w3v2 (60hm) on a JL 500/1 amp how will it perform?

and what 2 10w3v2 perform well with a JL 250/1 ? or is that not enough?

 

the 250/1 pushing 2 10w3v2s is nowhere near enough. The ohm ratings really play apart when you are trying to run them parrallel or in series. You want to run the lower the better yet you want to stay in the stable ohm rating of the amp. In EVERY JL sub package, there is the owner's manual. In that it shows you what your ohm is in various configurations. Go with that as a guide.

 

If you already ordered the 10w3v2 6 ohm, just parallel the voice coils.. it'll give you a 3 ohm system, and your amps will be nice and stable.

If you add a second sub, you'll have a problem with a single amp. For example, you could put the voice coils in series (12 ohm) and then parallel the pair of speakers, which will give the amps a 6 ohm load... or you could put the voice coils in parallel (3 ohms) and then put the two subs in series with each other.. but it still give the amp a 6 ohm load.... pretty high if you want much power for the subs.

 

Don't you guys with JL amps know what you bought???? JL 250/1, 500/1, 1000/1, etc. amps have a regulated power supply, so as long as you're between 1.5 and 4 ohm mono, you get THE SAME POWER. Regular amps, the lower the impedence, the more the power; not so with these JL's. This has good points and bad points, but in this case any "slash" series amp is regulated, so just follow the directions in the manual to wire; or post back and I'll tell you how to.

 

Umm. yes i know what i bought. point is...he has a 6 OHM speaker...and the slash series is (as you stated) stable up to 4 ohm... my comment was in general not in specific context

 

I vote for Image Dynamics IDMAX, sounds a lot better than that w7 and costs half as much...

JL is good, but not up to par with a lot of other brands for the same price. You're paying for a name, not performance.

 

cool, well i am trying to get that 6 ohm substituted with a 4 ohm because price wise they are the same, so thanks for the replies...

i thought for xmas i'd install a nice sound system in my 2003 350z chrome silver performance. i ordered the jl 650 csi, jl 10w3v2 (1), jl 300/4 amp, alpine 9807, and was wondering if i should get the jl 500/1 for 2 10w3v2, or some other amp...and maybe i should just get the 250/1 for the 1 10w3v2.

 

I don't think they make a 6ohm svc...just dvc, in which case you can wire it to 3 ohms. If you're going with a pair, you could wire both to 3 ohms, and then parallel again down to 1.5 ohms.

 

You should have a good idea of how you're going to build your system before you order your components. Dual 4 ohm voice coils can be wire in parallel for a two ohm output, but if you want two subs.. you'll need to consider how you will power them both from a monoblock amp.... so you'll either still have the wrong speakers, or will need to use a two channel amp, with each channel capable of handling a two ohm load.

 

get the 2 subs and the 500/1 ... that is what i have and have turned many heads. if you go with only 1 sub, the 250/1 is perfect. I can take all kinds of pictures for you of my setup if you want. If you do the single sub, i have some ideas you might want to hear about. email me and we can talk...mgronholz@deloitte.com