With the 13 in shallow subs, then have the amps in rear, or under seat?

How much rattle am i gonna get, is it possible to get rid of the rattle.

 

Youre confusing me....but i think this may help you. i installed an amp in the glovebox and a 12 inch type r in the stock location. i had to make a spacer so that the sub would fit into the allocated space(sticks out about an inch). i also tried to seal any holes in the subs stock location. It rattles on very long deep notes and that is it. however it was very hard to get it to sound right 95 percent of the time like it does now. I would recommend sealing the inside completely with fiberglass mix and making a custom fiberglass "platform" to attach your sub to if you are putting it in its stock location.

 

i run one in the passenger side and theres a TON of rattle. its not the metal, its the plastic pieces..I plan to take them all off... look at the sheetmetal beneath and youll surely be able to see scuffs wheres the panels contact the metal at... theres a few solyutions ive thought of...
apply a coating of silicon over the whole mess of sheet metal and make sure its smoothed thin enuff where the panels still have room to fit back on... OR... go the fabris store.. find some very light foam ( the type you sew behind another fabrics to make it puffy) and cut lengths of it to be lightly glued in spots over the back of the panels.. it doestn take much to stop plastic from rattling.. its not like sheet metal viobrations which require dynamat etc.

Im curious to see how others fixed thier rattles too. Metal music plays fine, but anything like hip hop, or w a sharp beat.. and its LOUD rattle central.

 

luciapwns, hes talking about the "wicked CAS" product, its a prefab fiberglass box that down fires and bolts right in. basically a mold of the stock glovebox and flange.
Very cool.
Uses a flat JL 13 which is far louder than i had ever imagined.
But rattles like hell, and yes, without the sound tuning software i used, i can imagein its VERY hard to get it to sound right.

 

didnt know they made such a thing. its a shame it rattles but it sounds like its rattling in the same way mine does. i fixed it by putting some double sided tape there. when i get a chance though i'm taking it out and doing it all over again. i've learned what will work and what wont while doing it the first time

 

yeah thats usually the way it works.. try one way, fail, then you know exactly what to do to fix it after that.. way of life.

Its so dope having all that sound when my car is fully empty inside the trunk tho... i just pulle dout a tc custom fiberglass box and TWO 10w7s.. thats 100 lbs man... this is much nicer.

Ill probably get around to fixing the rattles soon as they have to pull the box out to get to my fuel pumps soon.. having it built and big FI.. so Ill probably make a post w a better searchable title when i find out what truly fixes the rattles.

 

peel and stick deadner
second skin
stinger road kill
dynmat

and of these will work

i think that it is not the best spot to use

pretty much what i told you on 350zmotoring forum that you posted the same question over there

 

also Oblix.. i run the Alpine PDX series amps, very good amps, and they are literally the exact size of a pack of copier paper.. I truly reccomend using only ONE wicked cas box and sub unless you are truly SPL crazy. I took the glovebox out of my passenger side, put it in my drivers side, and put my amps there. looks very clean. bolts into the exact same place.

I put my woofer on the passenger side farther away from me, much better sound.

Modification must be made and the latch will need to be cut out. Very simple w a dremel tool.
You also would have to purchase a new panel like behind the drivers seat to replace the moving door on the passenger side. All in all.. very cool set up tho.

 

just an update, im not feeling the cuby SQR box for this car.
A- its cool if you ahve a roadstaer, you got no choice,, but in a hatchback, its just too close to you, path length is all fked up.

All it does is rattle the living hell out of the plastic.. and its just too small a box for the JL 13.. at .6 ft cu its too small.. not linear at all.. JL winced when i told them the size.. "TOO SMALL".

So i will keep it for now, but will be sitting in my trunk until my spare tire well box comes in, another ebay deal, its a flat piece shaped like your trunk mat, and haas a spare tire well area that will fit 2 12's.. im having it cut for one 13tw5.
I have my spare and tools out of the car anyways already.

Cutting out my factory mat and having the edges re stitched where the grille sits should be simple. I doubt it will cost more than 40-50 bucks too.

Ill post pics when its done, still almost 100 % stealth.

 

do you have a link to that sub box for the spare tire well?

 

I have the same woofer and mine sounds great . I didn't stick it in the glovebox area though, it sounded like **** when it was in the stock subwoofer location, so I have a box that sits right behind the rear speaker plastic and goes up to the strut bar.

Still have my whole rear hatch for storage, and no rattles.

 

Thats exactly what i want!

 

many asked for the link, so now here you have it.
Tell him i sent you btw.

It will be shipped out to me soon. Looks like it will disappear nicely once my factory mats are installed over it too.. just install it all before you mount the woofer and lay your factory mats over the open hole.... us a very sharp xacto knife and make some cuts to mark the overall circle.. then use it as the guide and trace out the hole... im gna try using a heat gun lightly from the underside to seal it up after cutting, but if need be, an auto upholsterer can stich a seam to finish it. very cheap im sure.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Custo...85101221500103

This is the 2-10 box but just visit his store and you can see there are several available.. very simple and low key. CHEAP, done.. next project.

 

I have a single CAS box running on an Alpine MRP 500 running a JL Audio 10W3V3 @2ohms no rattling, great bass.