Aftermarket 10" Sub in Bose location
I've been reading TONS of information about this and everyone hates on the idea and complains about rattling, sealing issues, can't find the right sub, etc etc.
Well, I got an 240watt amp for free, free wiring and new JVC head unit for next to nothing. I then came across a deal on a 10" Kicker Comp sub for $30, new, in the box from best buy. Total investment - about $40 and 1 hour of my time.
I know the components are not that great, but I wasn't looking for a stereo competition setup, just a little extra bass to go with all that treble. I went ahead and installed everything, added some "sticky foam" around the sub enclosure panel (to avoid the rattling issue) and I think it sounds great, and better than the non functioning Bose System and looking in the car, you would never know there's anything but a head unit in the car. I still have to replace all of the other 6-1/2" too, but that's not for another month or so.
Just putting my 2 Cents out there after reading all the hate on the concept.
Well, I got an 240watt amp for free, free wiring and new JVC head unit for next to nothing. I then came across a deal on a 10" Kicker Comp sub for $30, new, in the box from best buy. Total investment - about $40 and 1 hour of my time.
I know the components are not that great, but I wasn't looking for a stereo competition setup, just a little extra bass to go with all that treble. I went ahead and installed everything, added some "sticky foam" around the sub enclosure panel (to avoid the rattling issue) and I think it sounds great, and better than the non functioning Bose System and looking in the car, you would never know there's anything but a head unit in the car. I still have to replace all of the other 6-1/2" too, but that's not for another month or so.
Just putting my 2 Cents out there after reading all the hate on the concept.
For the most part guys talk about a better alternative rather than hating. Also you got the stuff for almost free versus someone that spends money for that. It comes down to personal preferences. Some still swear by the OEM Bose.
you have got to be kidding me, i have two of those subs in a box behind my seat but before the strut bar with a 200/2 kicker amp and it sounds great. The setup you have can not sound good, first the spot you have mounted your sub in is to much air space for the sub and comes no where close to being considered ported or a completely sealed enclosure(the opening extends around to the glove box and there are holes all over it leading to other parts of the car). Second the sub has to be hitting the plastic cover you have on and a sub that has its ability to push air compromised will not function properly. it may sound better then the stock blows system but hardly worth replacing that garbage with what you did.
here is what i did with very little effort but huge benefit, first a sub should never ever be mounted in your location unless you build a box and place it in there. use it as a spot for an amp rack

second just build a box for the sub it is very easy and cheap to do, you only have one 10 that requires 1 cubic foot of trunk space, and since it is only one it can be easily removed when trunk space is needed.
these are the two boxes i built for two 10s. The first sounded very good but took up to much space, the second takes up hardly any space yet still contains the same air space, doesnt get as deep of a low but still slams.


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you have got to be kidding me, i have two of those subs in a box behind my seat but before the strut bar with a 200/2 kicker amp and it sounds great. The setup you have can not sound good, first the spot you have mounted your sub in is to much air space for the sub and comes no where close to being considered ported or a completely sealed enclosure(the opening extends around to the glove box and there are holes all over it leading to other parts of the car). Second the sub has to be hitting the plastic cover you have on and a sub that has its ability to push air compromised will not function properly. it may sound better then the stock blows system but hardly worth replacing that garbage with what you did.
I've been building systems for close to 15 years. I used to run McIntosh amps with all Memphis speakers in my previous cars. I know what a good system sounds like, but this is NOT a bass system. It's a stereo system, built for sound quality, not mirror shaking. The extra bass is just that, EXTRA over stock.
Please read the purpose before slamming the concept.
God bless you all, i think is all about taste and money, guys he like it, it`s his car anyway, we dont know the budget he has for the stereo system and his only looking the get a better bass sound from the one he has install, and his saving alot of space in the trunk, good job MeinVinyl, im planning to build a 12" seald box for that same space he used, i will post some before and after pictures and hopefully it would sound good..
Last edited by jcruz0143; May 17, 2012 at 12:01 PM.
i got the amp from a buddy for $30 the subs were a black friday deal 2 for $50, i built my own box twice for a total of $40. great low power system for the money spent.
the everyone hates on the idea and etc etc part is every one saying it sounds like shizz, you put your 2 cents and so did I. I applaud the effort because i hate it when kids go to bestbuy or any other audio shop on Christmas or birthday and pay 500 for basically the same system me and you have then play it like its a competition level system. i only commented because are setups are very similar and are expectations are very similar(price and sub+amp power) and with one more hour worth of work it could sound exceptional but to each his own.
i got the amp from a buddy for $30 the subs were a black friday deal 2 for $50, i built my own box twice for a total of $40. great low power system for the money spent.
i got the amp from a buddy for $30 the subs were a black friday deal 2 for $50, i built my own box twice for a total of $40. great low power system for the money spent.
I looked into those, but considering I have about $40 into the entire system, I can't justify spending $300 on a box for a weak sub/amp setup. I rather spend the $300 on the polk speakers and get the clarity and sound I'm looking for in the long run.
That should sound nice. I always liked the W3's. I had 2 12W6's at one time, but that was in my brain rattling bass days. Those have long since been behind me. Now, once I get a D-DIN, it'll be nice to have that 7.1, crystal clear surround watching movies on road trips - for whoever the passenger is anyways.
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