silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

Yea I suppose I could do that. Ill just leave that function till someone can confirm the cable. What explains the problem blackmumba was having though? No matter, well see what happens when it gets here

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Blackmumba never responded in the forum to further describe his problem, and he has yet to respond to my PM. I'm not sure what kind of problem he is having. Hopefully we'll be able to clear it up soon though!

However, since the yellow wire is basically useless on the 350Z I don't think it had anything to do with his problem.

Kevin
www.KPtechnologies.net

onecoolee

Kevin, and other forum members...

Everything is fine here with my window/lock control module... all functions have been verified. The only change I made to make the unit completely functional was to move the yellow wire from the pink lead of the window/lock switch to the SB (sky blue) wire of the switch instead. The pink lead measures 0V on a multimeter when the ignition is on. The SB wire measures 0V when off, and 12V DC when on... the changes were verified using a DMM and by researching the Factory Service Manual to find the proper switch 12V lead (SB wire NOT Pink wire).

To make the connections, I used some plastic crimp splices, or wire-taps, that DO NOT cut the wire, but use insulation displacement terminals to make contact, and splice in the new wiring... cheap and very convenient. No cutting of wires necessary, just use a pair of pliers to crimp and splice the new leads from the module to the existing wiring. These cost about $2 for 8 of them from your local Radio Shack.

Here is a picture:
http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...64/64-3052.jpg

Before I made the above wiring change, the window up feature worked fine, but I was not able to program the autolocking feature. After the wire change was made, all functions work as expected.

I do have 1 question for KevinP...
Is it possible to send the unlock pulse when the ignition is turned to the OFF position ??? Somehow during my testing I managed to lock my keys in the car, and had to hunt through the house to find the spare set to get back into the car. Normally, with the keys in the ignition and the iginition off, the doors will not lock, but when the module is used, the above lock situation can occur.

Its nice to have the autolock feature, but it would be nice to auto-unlock as well, once the ignition is turned off. Any ideas as to how this can be incorporated into already purchased/installed modules ?

Thanks for any input...

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

The unlock feature cannot be incorporated into the window module because there is no true ignition source inside the door, only RAP. I could have set it up to unlock once RAP shuts off, but that would mean it wouldn't shut off until the door is open! Also, on the G35 you can just pull the door handle, and even if it is locked the door will open.

As far as locking your keys in the car, that would depend on the BCM, I haven't actually tested that. Everyone run out to thier car and try it!

Kevin

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

well good to know everything is fine. however, in light of the locking the keys in the car possibly happening, I think I may just leave the yellow cable disconnected to avoid any problems.

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

Update: hmmmm let me vent-----ahhhh f'ing **** crap.
im angry

okay, i took the door off, which is a biT#h. now here is where the directions where i printed today were weird. in the directions i had printed out, it says there should be two blues coming out of the unit. I had a dark blue and a dark green. Then the directions dont specify which bundle of cables I have to tap into. There were cables going up to the mirror and a bunch heavily taped going down.

Sooooo suffice to say i didnt know what to do. I backtracked and disconnected everything and left the unit in the door.

Now, Okay, someone needs to clarify things and explain everything a little better. im a bit angry now.

Im also worried because now my alarm doesnt honk when I press the lock button although it still locks the door. I know there is a way to make it so that the car honks or doesnt honk when u lock the car. I want my honk back.

And either some help with this or a refund.


ahhh i need to shower and rest.
this sucks

onecoolee

I am not sure where you went wrong (silverstoneTT), but I felt the instructions were OK, except for the incorrect wire color, which is worked out now, and is spec'd earlier in this thread on this page.

The instructions I received with my unit, did not tell me how to disassemble the door, but that is not too difficult (drivers side is much easier than passengers)...I already had mine apart to install Dynamat and new speakers so my learning curve was already gone...

The instructions tell you to locate the wire bundle that connects to the door/window switch. This is the same switch you have to remove when taking apart the door. The wires are located in the larger of the 2 connectors from the door window/lock switch panel. There are 4 wires to connect to this wire bundle...and these are the easier ones to make of the 5 total connections.

The harder wire to locate is the purple wire which is found by removing the speaker and is found in a wire loom tube directly behind the speaker. The wire must be removed from the loom and tapped into. Once tapped into, the new wire to the module must be wire tied down to avoid being grabbed by the window travel. After that, the speaker can be replaced and the module mounted.

I found the easiest way to do all of this was to pick a mounting location, then use some double sided sticky tape, and mount the control module. Then connect the purple lead behind the speaker, being careful about how the wires are run. Then wire tie all wires together... Now, run the remaining 4 wires along the main harness wire bundle (that travels to the switch panel) and wire tie them to that bundle. Next replace the door panel, and pull the wires through the hole in the door where the switch panel resides. Then after the door panel is on, and everything is back in place, except the door/window switch panel, make your final 4 connections using the wire splices/taps I recommended earlier in this thread.

I have done the install 2x already, first because the wire color was wrong, and the unit was not working properly with all the advertised features. The first time took me about 1 hour, from start to finish. Then I removed everything again, because it wasn't working to do some multimeter probing. At this point I found the incorrect wire color in the install instructions, and then I cross referenced the SB (instead of pink) wire in the factory service manual to verify that it was indeed what I found it to be...then I made the wire change and reinstalled the door panel. The 2nd time took about 20-30 minutes (not including wire probing).

So, I am not sure where you install went sour, but I felt the instructions were OK, not for a newbie, but OK, for someone with some stereo hookup knowledge or general wiring experience to make a few taps and splices. Some pictures would be immensely helpful for the newbie type DIY'ers in the instructions, but overall, the wording was ok, and the instructions, straightforward.

If I can be of any help, let me know...it sounds like KevinP is a busy dude...so I will try to help out if I can.

As far as your horn issues go, I have no clue how to disable/enable that feature, but I can look it up in hte FSM if you want me to.

Good luck, and fire me a PM or respond here, and I will try to help if Kevin doesn't get to your quesstions right away...

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Nick,

Why did you not use the instructions that were shipped with the unit? Appartently no one has used our online instructions, because they ARE wrong. I'm not sure how, or why it says there are two blue wires. The PDF on the website was distilled from the instructions that should have came with your unit.

If you review the wire guide, as directed by the instructions, you will see where all the wires are located. 4 of the 5 wires are in the harness going to the power window module. The last wire, the actuator lock wire, is located inside the door.

If your horn won't honk when you lock the car most likely you have a zone bypassed. Check to make sure your hood, both doors, and your hatch is securely closed. I had one other person complain of this and his trunk was popped and he didn't know it! There is also a way to toggle the horn on and off with the remote, but I'm not sure how. It involves pressing multiple buttons at once.

As far as refunds, if you are unhappy with your module pop us an email. We will refund your money the instant we receive your module back, and then we can send it out to the next person on our waiting list!

I'll be around all night, either PM me through here, email me through the site, or IM me through KPiersonTec (AIM).

Thanks,

Kevin Pierson
www.KPtechnologies.net

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

Well yea, the horn issue is resolved. I will have another go at the unit tom.

So not to be stupid, but i need to open up the big wrapped "tube"
of cables to get at the ones I need?

I opened it up partially but it is rapped in black electrical tape up and down a good amount.

and as for the one behind the speaker, thats gonna be a pain because two of those screws do not wanna come off. ill try tom. and report then

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

Ok, finally got it to work. Need to wire to the THICK blue cable and the Thick White cable or it wont work. As for the auto door lock, still no luck.


Any ideas on that one? Tips on programming it? I turn the car on, engine running, and within 6 second i hit the locki button 3 times and then turn the car off and test to see if it works when i turn it on again.

Ehhh so much hassle. Installation would have been easier with clearer definite directions and pictures to guide people perhaps.
Not bad though

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Please remember that you are installing an electronic product. Installation would have been simple if you would have had the proper tools - i.e. a multimeter. It is very common for a vehicle to have multiple wires of the same color. In every piece of documentation we have made we make it clear that this module should be installed by a professional who has the right tools to do the job. We also state that installing the unit WRONG could result in irreversable damage. This is why you should VERIFY ALL wires before you make connections to them.

As far as the door lock part goes, if the window funtion is working then you HAVE to have 4/5 wires hooked up right. The only wire that could still be wrong is the yellow ignition wire. You need to verify that this wire goes to 12vdc when the ignition is on. Run to a local stereo shop and just asked them if they will measure the yellow wire for you. With the door open measure it with the car running and with the car off (make sure you keep the door open the whole time). You should be able to have this done without having to take the door panel off.

KPtechnoloiges STRONGLY discourages randomly hooking up wires until the module works. This practice can be disasterous for the car, for the module, and for the person doing it. To have this module professionaly installed by a local stereo shop should cost no more then $40-50. MUCH cheaper then having your BCM replaced due to a fried output!

Kevin
www.KPtechnologies.net

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

Definetly for future people though, i dont see why youd need to have to check every wire. every 2003 z should have the same cables and connections. i connected the yellow wire to the purple behind the speaker. ill leave it be till later when someone takes pics.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they SHOULD be the same, but there is no guarentee that they are. Also, in most cases there are multiple wires of the same color in the same harness. All it takes is one wrong wire to cause irreversable damage to either the module or the car. That is the last thing I want. So far, out of all the module we've sold we have only had two problems though, one that was fixed and one that was destroyed by hooking the green wire up to a constant 12 volt source. You said the yellow wire is hooked to the purple wire behind the speaker? That is the wrong wire. THe yellow should be hooked up to the sky blue wire in the power window module harness.

Kevin

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

lol Kevin, I dont wanna sound like Im complaining or trying to cause you any probs. I love the little module and am suprised you actually went through and were able to come out with it. Easier to follow instructions however would make this a lot more widespread.

Just want to suggest it so that others in the future dont have ANY probs.

As for the autolock, no, I connected the green or blue wire to the purple one. I followed the directions on that.

Can you tell me exactly how to program it? Should I turn the car on or just to the on position of the key movement?

Overall though, Im happy with the mod.

sflg35

iTrader: (8)

it should be already pregrammed to auto lock after 6 seconds. if you change the programmin it will disable it. here are the directions on how to do it


To disable this feature:
Turn the ignition on and WAIT for the doors to lock. After they lock you have approximately six seconds to push the lock button three times. The next time you turn the ignition on the doors should not lock

To enable this feature:
Turn the ignition on and within approximately six seconds push the lock button three times. The next time you turn the ignition on the doors should lock after six seconds.

sorry i havent posted sooner i have been really busy this past week. i have had mine for a couple months now and went through all the initial test and bug fixing with kevin, and i can say this is a great mod and i love it

silverstoneTT

iTrader: (1)

ignition on or actually start the car? im gonna go wash the car and try now. thanks.

sflg35

iTrader: (8)

does anyone read before they post anymore? just turn it on not start it

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Daniel, you are wrong. I changed to default setting to 'off' because I figured more poeple would want it off then on, as it only really works well in the G coupe. The best way of setting/testing the auto locks is to have the drivers door open when you do everything. Turn the key to 'On,' you don't have to actually start the car. Within 6 seconds press the lock button three times (either by remote or the door switch). Leave about .5 seconds in between each pulse. Make sure you ONLY hit it three times, alos, or you could be shutting it back off.

Turn the key off and remove it from the ignition. Put the key back in and start the car. After six seconds the doors should lock. Thats it. Kinda confusing, but I was very limited to programming options.

Kevin Pierson
www.KPtechnologies.net
AIM: KPiersonTec

sflg35

iTrader: (8)

so you did change it then. whyd you tell me you left it on when i was puttin redwillow's in? i was wonderin why it didnt work at first and i had to program it.

damn first time that has happened.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

You didn't get that memo? My mistake! I belive in the instructions that it says that it is disabled from the factory.

Kevin