rykr

Do you have to use Bose amp to get SWC or can we keep SWC with an after market HU and amp?

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

You can maintain steering wheel controls with an aftermarket head unit. You can use something like the PAC SWI-RC, Axxess ASWC-1, or similar. There was a recent thread where no adapter was needed, but that was with a specific aftermarket head unit.

Does your Z have Bose audio or no? If it has Bose (and you want to keep it that way), then you will need to get something to convert the aftermarket output from the aftermarket head unit to the ohm specification that the Bose speakers (and sub amp) uses like the PAC ROEM-NIS2.

rykr

Well, his main Bose amp was fried and someone had stolen all the sub stuff. However, I think we are going to put it back stock with the Bose stuff. We have the 70-7551 harness and that feeds RCA to the main amp. Is impedance a thing when you are feeding RCA?

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

To be honest, it would be a good time to upgrade from the Bose stuff since the amp and sub was stolen especially if you are going with an aftermarket head unit. If it were me, I would take out the remaining Bose speakers that haven't been stolen, replace everything with aftermarket speakers and then use the aftermarket head unit to power those using the existing wiring. Bose stuff uses like a 0.5 or 1 ohm impedance which unnecessarily complicates everything. You can run the front and rear channels off the aftermarket head unit, run an RCA cable to a separate aftermarket amp to power a subwoofer.

I think the OEM Bose head unit sends the low and high audio signal through 6 different wires to the OEM Bose amp similar to speaker line level inputs. If you run an aftermarket amp, you really only need to be concerned with the RCA output voltage on the head unit as far as power is concerned. You can always just the gain on the amp and possibly through the new head unit.

rykr

We thought about that. We picked up a replacement for the main Bose amp for like $43 today on eBay. We thought we would just take it back to stock. We were a bit concerned about complicated wiring on an additional amp. Is the factory Bose setup really that bad? We are not audiophiles. Just want to have some volume and some clarity to the music and being stock seems like a good deal (well, stock except for the head unit).

We did buy some kicker coaxials for the back and put them into listen to them. We ran some 14awg wire back to them. They were "brighter" than the gem door speakers but then again, the door speakers were running off an impedance mismatch.

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha. I think this is what you'll need to do:

Get aftermarket head unit, SWC adapter, and PAC ROEM-NIS2. Power the rear kicker speakers from the rear channel output of the new HU. Connect the front channel outputs from the HU to the PAC module in order to power the front speakers (you'll need to play around with the ***** to get the sound right). The PAC outputs for the front will splice into the existing front wiring to power the front Bose speakers.

At this point, its decision time if you want to get an aftermarket amp and subwoofer which receives its signal from the RCA output on the new HU, OR if you want to try and find an old Bose sub and amp. I would go with a new sub/amp combo because anything you find that secondhand is going to be around 20 years old at this point. Not to mention, you'll also be avoiding any headache of getting the Bose amp to accept the signal from the new HU.

No, the Bose isn't absolutely trash - it's just probably a good time to upgrade everything to something more modern.

rykr

Thanks for the tips. I think he would want to put the new sub into the existing hole behind the drivers seat. Also, would he need any type of additional power line run for the sub amp or can it run off the battery line that is already there for the Bose amp?

Also, he bought a Dual brand HU (he's on a serious budget) because he wanted wireless car play. We've seen some used Pioneer and Alpine units on eBay for about the same money $150-$200. Is he going to hear a difference between the Dual and a better brand?

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I would advise against putting in a subwoofer in the existing hole behind the seat like the OEM design. Even if you get a free-air model, there is going to be a lot of rattling and the bass will be muddled. Your best bet to put a subwoofer back there would be to build a shallow box and securely mount it behind the plastic grill with the "cubby space" lined with dynamite or some other sound deadening material to prevent rattling noises.

As far as the power wire, it really depends on the power requirements of the aftermarket amp you plan on putting back there. I highly doubt the existing power wire is the correct gauge for any aftermarket amp out there unless it is only putting out like 60w or less. Even some of these newer ultra compact class D mono amps require at least 10 ga wiring. You might be able to get away with using the existing wiring if you get one of those small powered subwoofers that are designed to fit under the seat, but I still wouldn't trust it without a dedicated power line.

I've never used any Dual budget audio products. I generally tend to stay away from lower quality components, but I get it that your son is on a budget. If it were me, I would save up to buy a new high quality head unit. If I had to choose, I would go with a used more reputable brand than a low class new unit.